OT: automotive electrical connector loose, power window

BS? Try it. I did this crap for a living for over 20 years. I've fixed the same problem numerous times. Trust me, tape or zip ties will NOT solve the problem. This is not a problem with the tab on the plastic "plug" being broken. allowing the connection to come apart. It is a connection loosing tension from heat. A close look at the switch and/or plug WILL tell you which connnector is the problem. At least one will be discolored. In many cases the white nylon of the "plug" will be discolored brown or even be deformed from the heat.. If it is other than white, the discoloring is less obvious, but a "wrinkling" deformation is usually still present to one degree or another.

On Friday, September 23, 2016 at 10:03:38 PM UTC-4, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrot e:

window, though none of the others have to work.

isassembling, cleaning, and polishing, I got it to work intermittently. Sw apping with a known good switch I finally found the real problem: the conn ector doesn't stay on the pins tightly. Slight finger pressure will make g ood contact and the window works fine, but otherwise not. It's a 1991 Volv o if that makes any difference.

st push on, there are four sockets in the connector and four fat pins on th e switch. I'd swap with one of the other three, but the four switch connec tors are all shaped uniquely and can't be repositioned.

when I fixed it last year, and succeeded by luck.

switches as well as several others (mirror adjustments, child locks, etc.) Vertical finger pressure downward operates the window. Press down on the back of the switch (it's a rocker) and the window goes down; press on the f ront of the switch and it goes up.

e door. The connector has four female sockets that mate with the switch. The wiring harness has 7 connectors. If I pull the entire switch assembly out of the door panel, and press lightly upwards on the bottom of the conne ctor, the switch will work.

because I found a Volvo web site that explained in detail how to disassemb le the switch and clean corrosion and said this was a known failure mode fo r that car. And it did seem to work. This year I cleaned the switch conta cts AND swapped it for a known good switch, and the symptom remains. Press ure on the connector makes it work. The "bad" switch works fine in the new location.

wiring harness wire loose on the socket connection. If the latter is the c ase this will be a pain in the butt to work on, it's a large wiring harness buried deep in the door panel with almost no slack.

The OP has stated that a small amount of upward pressure on the connector solves the problem.

If a tiny amount of upward pressure on the connector solves the problem the n it doesn't matter how that pressure is applied. A zip tie can apply that up ward pressure in a more permanent and convenient manner than the OP's finger.

It doesn't take 20 years of experience in the automotive industry to know h ow to make a loose connector tighter.

He's free to try iot but I assure you it will be at best a short term repair.

On Saturday, September 24, 2016 at 1:54:16 PM UTC-4, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wro te:

rote:

wer window, though none of the others have to work.

r disassembling, cleaning, and polishing, I got it to work intermittently. Swapping with a known good switch I finally found the real problem: the c onnector doesn't stay on the pins tightly. Slight finger pressure will mak e good contact and the window works fine, but otherwise not. It's a 1991 V olvo if that makes any difference.

just push on, there are four sockets in the connector and four fat pins on the switch. I'd swap with one of the other three, but the four switch con nectors are all shaped uniquely and can't be repositioned.

we're dealing

is when I fixed it last year, and succeeded by luck.

ow switches as well as several others (mirror adjustments, child locks, etc .) Vertical finger pressure downward operates the window. Press down on t he back of the switch (it's a rocker) and the window goes down; press on th e front of the switch and it goes up.

the door. The connector has four female sockets that mate with the switch . The wiring harness has 7 connectors. If I pull the entire switch assemb ly out of the door panel, and press lightly upwards on the bottom of the co nnector, the switch will work.

t's because I found a Volvo web site that explained in detail how to disass emble the switch and clean corrosion and said this was a known failure mode for that car. And it did seem to work. This year I cleaned the switch co ntacts AND swapped it for a known good switch, and the symptom remains. Pr essure on the connector makes it work. The "bad" switch works fine in the new location.

he wiring harness wire loose on the socket connection. If the latter is th e case this will be a pain in the butt to work on, it's a large wiring harn ess buried deep in the door panel with almost no slack.

I hear both of you. If it were me and a zip tie can give it the pressure it needs to work, I'd try it, because there may not be an easy, sure fix. I also agree that usually isn't going to make an ideal, permanent, sound electrical connection. And if it's something like a pump or heater that's going to run for long periods or constantly at high amps, a little resistance in a less than perfect connection can generate heat, which leads to further oxidation, deterioration, and failure. But here it's a window switch, so that seems less likely.

rote:

power window, though none of the others have to work.

ter disassembling, cleaning, and polishing, I got it to work intermittently . Swapping with a known good switch I finally found the real problem: the connector doesn't stay on the pins tightly. Slight finger pressure will m ake good contact and the window works fine, but otherwise not. It's a 1991 Volvo if that makes any difference.

ey just push on, there are four sockets in the connector and four fat pins on the switch. I'd swap with one of the other three, but the four switch c onnectors are all shaped uniquely and can't be repositioned.

pressure" so

that and maybe

t we're dealing

us directions,

ting surface.

this when I fixed it last year, and succeeded by luck.

ndow switches as well as several others (mirror adjustments, child locks, e tc.) Vertical finger pressure downward operates the window. Press down on the back of the switch (it's a rocker) and the window goes down; press on the front of the switch and it goes up.

de the door. The connector has four female sockets that mate with the swit ch. The wiring harness has 7 connectors. If I pull the entire switch asse mbly out of the door panel, and press lightly upwards on the bottom of the connector, the switch will work.

hat's because I found a Volvo web site that explained in detail how to disa ssemble the switch and clean corrosion and said this was a known failure mo de for that car. And it did seem to work. This year I cleaned the switch contacts AND swapped it for a known good switch, and the symptom remains. Pressure on the connector makes it work. The "bad" switch works fine in th e new location.

the wiring harness wire loose on the socket connection. If the latter is the case this will be a pain in the butt to work on, it's a large wiring ha rness buried deep in the door panel with almost no slack.

In other words, KIS. I'll respectfully leave off the final S since it doesn't apply to anyone taking part in this discussion.

As an experiment I put plenty of pressure on the connector block with a klu ge arrangement of rubber bands and toothpicks. As predicted, it did not wo rk reliably, although it did occasionally.

But the car was in the shop getting the headlight assemblies replaced and t he mechanic showed me the same problem on a different connector block so I' m pretty sure I finally know the real diagnosis.

The pins on the switch are solid, male pins. The mating pins on the connec tor block (part of the wiring harness in the door) are hollow, female.

The male switch pins are fixed firmly into the switch, they can't move. Bu t the female pins on the connector block are loose and they slide back when the connector is pushed on. The mechanic had trouble getting the turn sig nals to function after the headlight replacement and he showed me. He ende d up pushing the pins forward out of the connector and connecting it manual ly, then adding the connector block next. I didn't know pins would come ou t forward, but he said on old worn cars it isn't uncommon for these to be l oose. There's a special half moon tool for depressing the tab and getting them out backwards for replacement.

Like I said - special tool. Sqeazing the connector a bir before re-installing will help, but if they have been overheated (will be discolored) they will not hold tension and the only real fix is either solder directly or replace the connectors. If they have been overheated they WILL heat again

TimR posted for all of us...

I would not use a rubber band, it will self destruct quickly. I don't know if anyone suggested this but maybe a drop of solder in the correct place may make an interference fit. If it's too big it can be filed down.

snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca posted for all of us...

I'm surprised that no one has mentioned using conductive epoxy to remedy "loose disconnections" like the one you are describing. It's saved my ass a few times and I've kept the unused epoxy in the kitchen freezer for several years and it still works fine when needed.

Conductive epoxy would likely fix your problem and you'll probably trade in the car before the switch itself fails. It wouldn't hurt to scrape out the female contacts a bit before using the epoxy in case they are "dirty".

See this:

Jeff

w, though none of the others have to work.

mbling, cleaning, and polishing, I got it to work intermittently. Swapping with a known good switch I finally found the real problem: the connector doesn't stay on the pins tightly. Slight finger pressure will make good co ntact and the window works fine, but otherwise not. It's a 1991 Volvo if t hat makes any difference.

h on, there are four sockets in the connector and four fat pins on the swit ch. I'd swap with one of the other three, but the four switch connectors a re all shaped uniquely and can't be repositioned.

n I fixed it last year, and succeeded by luck.

tches as well as several others (mirror adjustments, child locks, etc.) Ve rtical finger pressure downward operates the window. Press down on the bac k of the switch (it's a rocker) and the window goes down; press on the fron t of the switch and it goes up.

oor. The connector has four female sockets that mate with the switch. The wiring harness has 7 connectors. If I pull the entire switch assembly out of the door panel, and press lightly upwards on the bottom of the connecto r, the switch will work.

cause I found a Volvo web site that explained in detail how to disassemble the switch and clean corrosion and said this was a known failure mode for t hat car. And it did seem to work. This year I cleaned the switch contacts AND swapped it for a known good switch, and the symptom remains. Pressure on the connector makes it work. The "bad" switch works fine in the new lo cation.

ing harness wire loose on the socket connection. If the latter is the case this will be a pain in the butt to work on, it's a large wiring harness bu ried deep in the door panel with almost no slack.

I wouldn't mind a little dirty female contact.

On Sunday, September 25, 2016 at 8:52:20 PM UTC-4, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote :

kluge arrangement of rubber bands and toothpicks. As predicted, it did not work reliably, although it did occasionally.

d the mechanic showed me the same problem on a different connector block so I'm pretty sure I finally know the real diagnosis.

nector block (part of the wiring harness in the door) are hollow, female.

But the female pins on the connector block are loose and they slide back w hen the connector is pushed on. The mechanic had trouble getting the turn signals to function after the headlight replacement and he showed me. He e nded up pushing the pins forward out of the connector and connecting it man ually, then adding the connector block next. I didn't know pins would come out forward, but he said on old worn cars it isn't uncommon for these to b e loose. There's a special half moon tool for depressing the tab and getti ng them out backwards for replacement.

I don't think the special tool is the answer.

I could replace the socket pins in the connector block with the special too l, true. But I don't think the pins are the problem. I think the pins are fine, but they're loose in the block, because the block itself is worn (or maybe even damaged by overheating.) I think new pins will just slide back in the block, failing to make contact, like the old ones do.

I think now there are probably two answers. One is the replace the connect or block, if they are available. Second is just to switch the wires to one of the switches that works. I can't switch the connectors because all fou r are unique, but I could cut the wires to two switches and swap them.

te:

a kluge arrangement of rubber bands and toothpicks. As predicted, it did n ot work reliably, although it did occasionally.

and the mechanic showed me the same problem on a different connector block so I'm pretty sure I finally know the real diagnosis.

onnector block (part of the wiring harness in the door) are hollow, female.

. But the female pins on the connector block are loose and they slide back when the connector is pushed on. The mechanic had trouble getting the tur n signals to function after the headlight replacement and he showed me. He ended up pushing the pins forward out of the connector and connecting it m anually, then adding the connector block next. I didn't know pins would co me out forward, but he said on old worn cars it isn't uncommon for these to be loose. There's a special half moon tool for depressing the tab and get ting them out backwards for replacement.

ool, true. But I don't think the pins are the problem. I think the pins a re fine, but they're loose in the block, because the block itself is worn ( or maybe even damaged by overheating.) I think new pins will just slide ba ck in the block, failing to make contact, like the old ones do.

ctor block, if they are available. Second is just to switch the wires to o ne of the switches that works. I can't switch the connectors because all f our are unique, but I could cut the wires to two switches and swap them.

So, if I understand that correctly, you want to (for example) have the rear passenger switch control the front driver's window, but still be in th e rear passenger position of the switch block.

Do you know if that will pass inspection? That's what started this whole discussion, right?

You take the car for inspection and the tech tries the driver's window switch. Nothing happens, so he fails the vehicle. He comes out, you tell him to try the rear passenger window switch - or maybe you tell him before hand. Do you know if that will fly?

Maybe you want to ask before you go through the trouble?

In Texas the only thing the side windows are checked for is too dark window tent, however if they can't get the window down in order to check the tent I suppose that might be cause for failure.

Why do Texans set up tents inside their vehicles?

The bad guys don't want the cops to see inside their vehicle when they get stopped, the good guys want to keep the Texas heat out.

Whoosh!

(Hint: Check your spelling)

You got me! LOL!

So they can canvas the neighborhood.