I have a 2-1/2 car garage built in the 1940's
It is all brick and heavy wood, insulation and paneling.
The attic is a walk-in type and is also insulated.
The wiring is also 1940's...
This winter I plan on starting from scratch on the wiring, and rip out
I think due to the location and build of the garage it is prone to
sweating in the spring and summer.
I will add some ventilation and a heater (working on now)
I am a bit leary of drywall due to the moisture. Any other cost
effective options to finish the ceiling and walls after I am done with
If the paneling is in basically good shape and not horrific to look at,
I'd be inclined to disconnect the existing wiring, and abandon it in
place, and rewire with conduit on the surface. Cover the old boxes with
blank plates or the new boxes. Much easier to modify down the road, if
you or the next owner want to use the garage as a shop. It's a garage,
after all. Exposed wiring is not at all out of place. Being a garage,
there are likely to be all sorts of things living in those walls you
would rather not know about.
What sort of paneling is it anyway?1940s would likely have been T&G. If
it is the thin stuff that was popular in the 50s and 60s, no loss, but
T&G is about the best garage wall you can have.
In that case, I'd do some shopping, and build back with T&G, if I could
find a cheap source for it. Sometimes the stuff that is lower-grade than
people put in their rec rooms and saunas is available at a tolerable
price. 'Car siding' is what to ask for. Also a lot easier to install
than drywall, IMHO. Just get the starter row straight, and work out from
there. Is the brick veneer, or structural? If the paneling is 1960s, the
wiring (or part of it) may be as well. You are right, drywall is the
wrong thing for a garage with moisture issues, and OSB would be as well.
The non-paper drywall they sell for bathrooms would work, but that stuff
is pricey enough that T&G may be cheaper. Great thing about T&G is that
you can hang stuff anywhere.
Do you like the looks of pole barn siding? I put up the metal siding
that is used for pole barns on the walls and ceiling. You can get it
in different colors, it is ordered within an inch of the length you
need and I didn't have to tape any joints, nor paint. Install and
you're done and it can be washed off easily.
I thought about recommending that, but he wants to bury the wiring in
the wall. That stuff is a pain to install around electrical boxes. Plus,
he already said he has condensation problems- metal walls will just make
The garage is not attached.
I ripped the side wall apart this weekend.
From the inside out, studs, 12" wide tongue and groove at 45 degree
angle, tar paper then red brick.
All of the wood looks good, the paneling and insulation was from the
60's - it is all going in the trash.
I am now planing on drywall everywhere.
Any benefit to using the moisture type drywall in bathrooms? Or just
go with standard 5/8" and a good coat of paint.
I will be adding a furnace and correcting ventilation issues.
I have a new ridge vent in the roof, but little soffit vents, that
look to be clogged with insulation.
This will hopefully fix my moisture issues.
Unless there is a frequently used shower you don't "need " MR sheetrock in a
bathroom...Code may say otherwise however...The only place you need 5/8 Type
X sheetrock is the ceiling of the garage and the wall between the house and
garage...The rest can be half inch...Cheaper and MUCH easier to handle and
Because you have living space over the garage the ceiling in the garage has
to be 5/8 Type X Fire Code Sheetrock for fire protection for the living
space above...Same goes for the wall between the garage and house IF
attached for the same reasons...Both your insurance company and Fire Code
requires it.......No ifs , ands or buts....
So I am set on standard 1/2" drywall for the entire garage.
Improving the ventilation is to correct the condensation issues.
Water is for a sink and brewing beer (there is an existing drain the
garage floor - looks like an old toliet drain (from the 1940's)
Heater is to heat the garage - while I brew beer or keep wife's car
Wood burner is to boil water
Attic is for storing X-mas crap
Attic has a window
Attic has proper ridge vent (new roof)
Attic has old improper soffit vents (from 1940's)
Attic has a pull down stairs for access
Attic has no floor!
Garage is 75 feet away from house - separated by driveway.
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