I bought some Yokohama tires at Discount *ires.
They have a 60K warranty.
I have routinely had the tires rotated, balanced, and kept air pressure correct.
But after 15K miles, the tire tread indicator is already showing.
Are there tires that actually last to their rated warranties?
Thanks, Andy
I usually get about 45K on the tires that come with a new car. When they wear out I trade the car in.
I've never seen a tire with warranty on tread wear ! ... the estimated tread life is even disappearing from a lot of tire ads ... John T.
Just showing or showing that they need replacement or close to it, etc? I can see the wear indicators on mine all the time, it's not until they ar flush with the surface that means tread is at minimum. I got over 100K with Michelin. Current set on the X5 are General. Probably at 25K, may get to 45 or 50, but I don't see 100. I would not believe the 100K if I had not seen it myself.
Like trader said, what does showing mean? Do you have a teenage son who likes to do burnouts?
My Kia Sorento came with Yokohama tires. So far, with 54K miles, they aren't even close to being ready for replacement. My guess is that most tires do what they claim most of the time, but individual circumstances can affect the life pretty dramatically.
Are you seeing wear patterns that suggest anything? Burnouts, alignment issues, etc.?
CONSUMER TREADWEAR WARRANTY This Limited Treadwear Warranty covers the Yokohama premium all-season tires listed below for the tread life indicated. It protects the first retail purchaser while the tires are fitted on the original vehicle, which is being used in non-commercial service.
How It Works A tread-life warranty is not a money-back guarantee. As with other prorated warranties, what you can collect is only a partial credit. With tires, that credit is usually good only toward the purchase of an` essentially identical tire from the same manufacturer. If you didn?t especially like those tires, and maybe wanted to upgrade to something better, tough luck. Then you get nothing.
The credit for premature wear is calculated as a percentage representing tire life you didn?t get. Let?s say you bought a set of
80,000-mile tires but they were worn out at 60,000 miles. That 20,000-mile shortfall would qualify you for a 25 percent credit off the standard retail price for the replacement. Your credit, though, is applied to the standard retail price, not any discounted price you may find. And tire discounts are very, very common. So, as a practical matter, your credit may be worth nothing.Moreover, if the tire doesn?t live up to the wear promise, you may find that the so-called warranty imposes so many restrictions and conditions that it?s nearly impossible to collect on. It may even be pointless to try, although a diligent and truly determined consumer can sometimes manage it.
Rotating the tires "excessively" hides the signs of abnormal wear.
I just got a full set of Yoho from my Subi. I LOVE them. They run quiet and I have a tighter turning ratio.
Is this an All Wheel Drive vehicle?
Are all four wearing at the same rate?
Have you had your struts and alignment checked?
Maybe get a second opinion from professional mechanic? (Not kids at a fast food tire shop that employs kids because they are cheap.)
Discount tires? Are you sure they are not knock offs or back door seconds?
I see no alignment issues, as you can generally tell when letting go of the steering wheel and it drifts to the right or left.
Andy
All tires are wearing at the same rate.
They are not knock-offs. :-)
Andy
Thanks. I may try Michelin next.
Andy
I have .160 inch of tread wear left in the front and .240 in the back.
From what I read, tires should be replaced when it is .125 inch.
Google sez:
"Both Yokohama and Michelin, as do other tire manufacturers, make dozens of tire models. The models vary in both quality and performance type. ... Overall, Michelin offers more overall quality tire models compared to offerings of Yokohama. However, some tire models offered by Yokohama are of extremely good quality."
Yes. When I was 22, I was working full-time (more than full-time) in a political campaign and another volunteer needed a car to use. I never lend my car - no one ever asks - but some campaigns are almost like communes, people sharing their effort, so I thought I should. I picked him up and had him drive back to the office, to watch him drive. I should have noticed that he drove *too* carefully. Experienced drivers don't do that, don't have to. Maybe he was 17 or 18 years old, but I was only 22.
At the office, he takes the car and iirc no more than 15 minutes later he calls, and stammers and finally says, Where do you want the car towed? Huh? I don't want it towed at all.
I ran over there, about a mile away, and found that he had run a stop sign, in a school zone. Fortunately school was not in session, and his defense was that a tall van obscured the sign, which it did, but he lived in Racine and should have known it was a big street coming up. A main street compared to the side street he was on.
But the car was not driveable. By this time the tow truck had shown up and I think I asked him to pull the fender from the wheel, maybe not or maybe he wouldn't do it. I think I had them tow me to Sears. I was from out of town. Maybe the driver suggested it. It was bigger than a gas station and most shops, so it was probably Sears. He pulled the fender away from the front wheel and I could drive it but it turned very sharply to left. He might have said the frame was bent, or maybe I decided that later.
I asked him to align the tires and he started and said he couldn't. I said just do the best you can, I promise not to complain. He stopped measuring afaicr and removed every shim from one bolt on the left side. When he was done, the car drove straight ahead, hands free, but I learned in the weeks/months to come that that tire wore very badly. --- So this is all to agree with what you said Bob, and not to disagree with AK who said "generally".
The car still seemed to handle fine. On the highway too at 65, drove from Racine Wisc to Chicago to NYC. I drove it back and forth to Chicago one or maybe 2 more times. But every 6 or 9 or 12 months I had to buy a new tire. I bought used tires at a place on Empire Blvd. in Brooklyn. But with tread. Sometimes cars with good tires are totalled. And people used to sometimes trade in the tires on a new car for ones they liked better.
It would be rare for all four to wear at the same rate whether four wheel drive or not. On four wheel drive, most of the traction is from the front and they wear faster.
The legal minimum is half that, 2/32 and I'd expect that tire manufacturer's life claims are based on that. When new they have about 10/32. At 0.16 you're at 5/32. If they continue to wear at that rate, you have about 9K miles to the min 2/32 in the front. But the rear have 8/32 left which would be good for ~18K miles. Rotate them and the wear will balance out, you might get 18K. 15K+18K = 33K isn't great, but it's probably not that unusual either. How far you want to push it, I'd say depends on the climate and the driver. Driver that understands the limitations of tires, that rarely drives in rain, that isn;t an aggressive driver, might push it close to the 2/32. Driver that is clueless, that drives when it rains a lot, drives like a bat out of hell, should replace sooner. That's how I see it.
Not necessarily. Excessive toe-in or toe-out can cause rapid wear. Incorrect castor and camber can cause rapid wear. Those problems will often not result in "drift." When was the last time you had a four-wheel alignment check?
-dan z-
But can you have an alignment issue result in significant excess tire wear with both no symptoms on the road and no abnormal, irregular tire wear? OP hasn't said they are wearing evenly, but I would expect that if they were not we would have heard by now. For example, if the toe-in or camber is off by any significant amount, you'd get uneven wear, wouldn't you? I don't see how alignment could cause tires to wear faster, but still uniformly across the tread.
Assymetric alignment can cause a pull, but if the alignment problem is "ballanced" or symmetric you can wear tires quickly without feeling any pull. caster and camber both cause a pull ,but opposite - so a camber pull can be hiffen by a caster pull, or both sifes can have the same camber problem. Caster is generally not a tire wear angle. Toe in or toe out are more common tire wear issues and can be out significantly without causing a noticeable handling issue - while eating tires very quickly.
I will change them out at 2/32.
I will try some Michelin Defender T+H.
Andy
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