I own an older home (60's) that has undergone some remodelling (at least 4
All the bathrooms have GFCI outlets but the kitchen did not.
Potions of the house have been painted & I replaced the old GCFI's (ivory) with
new white ones (my wife wanted them to match the paint).
I decided to use one of the old ivory GFCI's to protect the daisey chain of
outlets in the kitchen. I installed the the CFCI but when I hotted the circuit
it immediately tripped & would not reset.
I checked to make sure I had installed it correctly & also checked all the
outlets with a circuit tester........everything ok.
I unplugged the fridge & the GFCI rest fine.
Plug in the fridge, the GFCI trips & will not reset.............fridge has a
The fridge is bad. This is common. You can look at all the wiring in the back
to be sure it isn't just a chafed wire but I bet it is current leakage in the
sealed compressor. There are lots of urban legends about how there is some
magic phase shift, "back EMF" or other hoopla in a fridge but a properly
working one should NOT trip a GFCI.
Read the original note again. He did that.
BTW don't expect the exemption for the fridge on the GFCI to last forever. It
has already gone away for commercial kitchens. ALL 15 & 20a 120v receptacles
must be GFCI.The trend is going that way in residential kitchens too. It used
to just be the receptacles near the sink, now it is all receptacles serving any
countertop. I imagine soon it will also be "all".
Yes, because Lord knows how many thousands of innocents have been KILLED due to
current leakage through their fridge, microwave, exhaust hood, dishwasher,
compactor, disposal, instant-hot, and the built-in desktop.
One day the NEC is going to regulate itself right out of business.
A properly working one doesn't need a GFCI. Heck, if you use a
separate circuit for refrigerators and freezers, you don't want a GFCI
as it is just another device likely to fail and let your stuff get
It is standard practice and acceptable by most code enforcement officials to
NOT have the refrigerator protected by a GFI. If that GFI trips while you
are away for a few days, you will come home to a fridge full of spoiled
food. It is usually only the countertop receptacles and any receptacles
within countertop range that require GFI protection. An outlet behind a
refrigerator is not considered readily accessible.
Eliminate the GFI protection from the refrigerator receptacle. This doesn't
eliminate the possibility that you may have a problem with your
Agreed. Shouldn't have a GFI on a refrigerator receptacle. It adds
relatively little protection and major risk of defrost.
May have to switch that chain of receptacles over to multiple
GFCI outlets so that the fridge on the end of the chain isn't
If a GFCI instantaneously trips when you try to drive a fridge
with it, you _do_ have a problem with the fridge. Fridges occasionally
leak to the frame, but not enough to trip the breaker (or there's
no ground and the frame is live). May be waiting for someone
to be unwary enough to touch the fridge handle and the sink
to go _zap_! I had a really old fridge with that problem - you
could get a fairly healthy tingle off the frame...
If you get an instantaneous trip off a fridge, especially when
the compressor doesn't "want to start", some diagnostics are in
order. Eg: use a DVM on ohms, and look for _any_ continuity
between hot and ground or neutral and ground. It's sometimes
possible to "fix" this. Ie: worn cables.
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
Thank you to all who replied.
I'll do seperate GFCI's for each accessible outlet, leave the fridge on a
non-GFCI outlet (or run a seperate circuit for it) & I'll see if I can diagonse
the fridge ground fault
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