New Shed

I am trying to find some answers as it relates to having an 8 x 8’ wood shed built in my back yard.
When I moved into my home 12 years ago, I had a hot tub and concrete slab r emoved. This is where I would like to install the new shed. The hot tub had a 50 amp 240 volt dedicated circuit hooked up to this hot t ub. I had a qualified electrician disconnect this circuit, and the fuses a re turned off on the electrical/fuse box. This circuit would need to be tu rned back on if someone ever decided to add a hot tub in that spot again. I also have a key that would need to be used in order to activate that circ uit. The electrician capped off that circuit.
My question is: can I safely hire someone to build a shed over this dead c ircuit/conduit? Is it safe? I do know how deep the conduit is underneath the ground or how deep the shed foundation would have to be dug into the ground.
Unfortunately this electrician has retired.
I am hoping this makes sense and that someone can help.
Thank you!
Kate
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

No way to know for sure, but I bet you can find that "capped" off line without too much work. It might be only a few inches down. If I were you, I would connect it to an outlet in the new shed, so I can used if needed. It can be split into 120 volt circuits for lighting or a regular outlet to use for battery chargers for cordless tools, etc.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I have a larger shed that is set up for lights, etc. I will not wire this shed. It is basically to store my Lawnmower and patio furniture in.
Appreciate your help.
Thanks!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 05/14/2017 03:10 PM, Kate wrote:

Is there a building code that requires a foundation? I'd just put it on 4x4 pressure treated lumber skids. That way if you ever want to move it you can.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 5/14/17 4:22 PM, Kate wrote:

Shovel.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 5/14/17 3:22 PM, Kate wrote:

There are wire locators/fault finders that can locate underground circuits. The locator should pinpoint the location and come pretty close on the depth. Snag's suggestion of bringing the wire into the shed sounds good. You should be able to find an electrician that has a wire locator.I don't know if a regular metal detector would do you any good. It might if the wire is in metal conduit.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sunday, May 14, 2017 at 10:12:20 PM UTC-4, Dean Hoffman wrote:

?

Do they work for circuits through which no current can flow? She said that they "capped off" that circuit. I assume that means that the undergrou nd ends of the wires have wire nuts on them so even if she connects the circui t at the panel, no current will flow.

n't

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sun, 14 May 2017 20:08:20 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

They will work as long as a voltage van be applied - no load or current required. The line DOES need to be energized.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 5/14/17 10:08 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

Ours have their own transmitters. The wires have to be deenergized before the transmitter is connected. One has a clamp that can be hooked around the conduit. It can also be set on the ground above the wires if one has an idea where one end is. The fault finders are made specifically for locating bad wires that can't carry current to its intended destination. I don't know about the locators used by the pro utility locator companies. Those must operate with everything in operation.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Yes.
--
Web based forums are like subscribing to 10 different newspapers
and having to visit 10 different news stands to pickup each one.
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
IMO, you should either bring the wires up into the new shed, or you should pull the wires back through the conduit and discard.
Here's why.
Over time water, bugs, rodents, etc. may cause any connections in that conduit to degrade. You might need power someday and it won't work, and trouble shooting later is much harder.
But also, sooner or later somebody will hit that conduit digging, and nobody will remember what it's for. If it has wires in it, they have to trace them and make sure they're not feeding an iron lung or something. If it's empty they can just drive on.
Really, leaving anything in the ground you don't need is a bad idea. You've already proved that - you don't know exactly where the end is, how deep it is, etc.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Everyone,
A million thanks for all of your help. It is very much appreciated. Just an update on my project.
I called about whether or not I need a permit to build an 8 x 8' shed in an area of my back yard. I was told no, but that someone would have to come out to inspect the setbacks. A nice guy came out, and this size shed is ou t of the question as I have to be 5 feet away from my neighbor's fence. My back yard is curved, so if the inspector would have gone around the corner , he would have seen that my neighbor's shed is against my property line, a nd in fact, the overhang of his shed is on my property. I have known this, but it does not bother me. The inspector said this has something to with the fire trucks. I also have a large shed, built before I bought this home , and it is only 3-1/2 feet from this neighbor's fence. Sure hope I don't h ave to move it some day. What a headache.
My plan is to hire a carpenter and build a 6 x 7’ shed. I just wan t it to store an extra lawnmower so I don't have to wheel it from the front yard to the back yard every time I mow. It just makes life easier for me. It will also be used to store patio cushions, etc. during the winter.
I have not decided what to do with the old conduit/electical from the hot t ub that was removed, but got great ideas from all of you.
I have not talked to the guy who will build this small shed for me yet, but does a 7’ pointed roof sound around right? I want to be able to s tand up in it, and yet make the shed looked balanced.
Again, thanks!
Kate
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 05/16/2017 12:43 AM, Kate wrote:

Google shed then click the images tab
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Tuesday, May 16, 2017 at 12:43:27 AM UTC-4, Kate wrote:

ut does a 7’ pointed roof sound around right? I want to be able to stand up in it, and yet

7 foot at the top will look balanced but you won't be able to stand up. 7 foot at the walls would be okay.
My neighbor built a small shed, maybe 6x6, with a tall roof, probably 10 fe et. It looked funny to me, but he explained he copied a colonial smokehous e and it was actually historically correct. Once explained it looked okay.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

My sged is 10X10X 8 ft high with a 15X15 roof skewed to give 4 ft overhang on 2 sides. This was to provide cover over the entrance, allow hanging a 15 foot canoe under roof along one side, and provide storage room in the "loft" The roof is about 5 feet high from eaves to peak. Looks a bit funny, but hides behind the garage somewhat.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@nwi.net says...

I have not decided what to do with the old conduit/electical from the hot tub that was removed, but got great ideas from all of you.

I don't know what they call the roof type, but you may want to look at what I call a pyramid roof. The type that goes up from each side. It may be called a hip roof. It may or may not take a square building to do that type.
Have you checked out any of the pre built buildings ? There may be different rules for them vers a building that is built on a foundation.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Tue, 16 May 2017 09:41:15 -0400, Ralph Mowery

Most bylaws allow a certain footprint (usually up to 100 sq ft) with no permit AS LONG AS IT HAS NO PERMANENT FOUNDATION. It has to be a "temporary structure"
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Tuesday, May 16, 2017 at 10:49:51 AM UTC-4, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

ROFL. Like Clare knows what the local ordinances and any bylaws allow for most of the country.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 05/15/2017 10:43 PM, Kate wrote:

Have you looked at some of the resin sheds like
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Palram-6-ft-x-5-ft-Tan-SkyLight-Shed-703388/206288179
I've had a larger one for about ten years and it proved to be durable even under snow load. They are quite easy to assemble compared to the Arrow style sheet metal varieties. Depending on size they're under $500. You would spend almost that for just the materials for a wood shed.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Tuesday, May 16, 2017 at 9:48:41 AM UTC-4, rbowman wrote:

want it to store an extra lawnmower so I don't have to wheel it from the f ront yard to the back yard every time I mow. It just makes life easier for me. It will also be used to store patio cushions, etc. during the winter.

6288179


Not if you are in the right place at the right time.
I paid ~$400 total for this 8' x 8' shed:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Handy-Home-Products-Kingston-8-ft-x-8-ft-Wood-Sh ed-Kit-with-Floor-Frame-18362-1/203814577
Open box, shed parts on a pallet. $250. Open packages of shingles, 3/4" PT ply for the floor, other assorted odds & ends, ~$150.
The manager had just finished stacking all the parts. Hadn't even put a price on it yet. She said 3, I said 2, we settled on $250...and she helped me load it into my trailer. ;-)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.