I downloaded a .pdf from the Grundfos comfort site. The one I opened had
nothing to say about cleaning and was an exact copy of the I & O manual.
If you are so very certain you are correct, why not post the link to the
.pdf you're talking about. Most people obscure the facts simply by not
giving all the info available. BTW, I'm emailing all this info to my
contact with Grundfos.
Hello McFly...anybody in there "knock on head"... see the picture
with a brush scrubb scrub scrub... that depicts cleaning... calcium
from the pump... Those that have used non-RedyTemp recirc's know the
deal... I'm not concerned with your dust mite opinions. As Walter
Chronkite would put it........GOOD DAY!!!
Oh no, the Ready Temp Ass is back,
Well I never cleaned my B&G and dont know anyoune who has. If you had
water that hard the usual pocedure is to add a sotener.
Or if you are Ready Temp ,,,just Lie and Scare everyone,
You just don't have a clue, do you?
You emailed me an attachment. I don't open attachments, but I did notice it
had 'eur' in the line. Smart guy. That means it was for Europe, not North
If I gave you a quarter, would you buy a clue?
Insulate all of the hot water pipes that you can get to.
Homedepot sells a hot water pump that mounts under the sink that pulls hot
water and pushes the cold back into the cold water pipe, ~$150.00. I think.
I have one. Place the pump at the farthest away from the water heater.
All of my lines are underground and the water takes a while to get warm.
With the pump I hit the switch brush my teeth and hot water is waiting for
me. I even have it on a timer that is ready for me in the mornings before I
go to work.
Let me add one more to the list. With an electric heater, one dead
element can cause some strange results. With either electric or gas a bad
dip tube or mis plumbed (incoming water connected to the hot (outlet) and
outgoing water connected to the cold water supply can cause such problems.
Five minutes, if it is really that long, would indicate a long string of
odd situations, like extra large supply lines, cold area, heavy heat sink
pipe material and very long runs from the heater to the outlet.
Do all the sinks tubs etc in you home have the same problem?
What kind of hot water heater do you have? Integrated with you home
heat, electric, gas, oil, no-tank?
I've timed it. For each faucet, it takes 3-4 minutes before the water
that comes out is warm. It is an excruciating long time to wait for
warm water, especially now that it is winter. In the summer, I didn't
mind washing my hands in cold water.
I'm in NC, my hot water heater uses gas and is located in the attic of
my 2-story house, not integrated. The pipes for the first floor
bathroom and kitchen run along the top of the cold crawl space under
the house. It has been a while since I was in the crawl space but I
think the piping I saw was clear plastic, not copper. But still, even
the 2nd floor bathroom faucets take the same amount of time before
warm water comes out.
I just want to know what I can do differently the next time I have a
builder build me a house. I am satisfied with everything the builder
did when building my home except for this one nagging problem.
Last house I plumbed for myself, I used 1/4" copper
lines from the water heater to the individual fixtures. It
was no big deal, since there were only three, but the
kitchen was far enough away that it would have taken
a LONG time to get hot water. Sounds like you're
encountering that sort of thing. The lines ran in the basement,
and obviously had plenty of opportunity to cool down.
Later, when I had to rerun that kitchen line for a remodeling
project, I was very careful to put a gentle but steady upward
slope to it as it went towards the kitchen. that way, the warm
water was presented to the fixture.
We never had to wait for hot water at the fixture, and I don't know
which path made the difference, but I certainly remind you that
the bigger the delivery line, the longer it takes to empty its contents.
I think your problem is with the heater, not the distribution system.
"It has been a while since I was in the crawl space but I > think the piping
I saw was clear plastic, not copper."
I have never heard of clear plastic being approved for domestic hot
water, but I guess it is possible. It is used for hot water heat supply
(well sort of clear). Maybe your memory is not too clear from when you saw
I suggest getting a plumber out to check it. It should be correctable,
and I am going to guess it is not going to cost all that much.
Frankly in your area, I don't think I would want any plumbing going
through a non-heated part of my home, nor would I want my hot water heater
in an area not easily assessable.
The other builder in the subdivision (DR Horton) placed their hot
water heaters in the garage. When I asked to have mine put in the
garage, my builder scoffed at the idea and said the raising and
lowering of the garage doors would frequently blow the pilot light
The attic where the heater sits is pretty cold and the crawl space
under the house is pretty cold. I can see why it takes a while to get
Thanks for all the comments. Something to keep in mind for the next
How about trying this check and telling us the results:
Tomorrow morning, before anyone opens a hot water faucet in the house, clamber
up to where the hot water heater is and
grab the outlet pipe a couple of feet from the heater.
Then yell down to SWMBO to open a hot water tap somewhere and then see how the
If it was warm and cools down, then there's a problem with the heater.
Might be that the installer screwed up and plumbed the inlet and outlet reversed
so it's feeding the water out through
the dip tube from the bottom of the tank where the cooler water sits, instead of
from the top, where the heated water
rises to. That's not hard to do if you don't pay attention to the "Hot and Cold"
markings on the tank.
If the pipe gets hot right away and stays hot for the several minutes it takes
for the water at the tap to get hot,
then as most of the others have said, it's a piping length/volume problem, best
solved by using one of those motorized
recirculating pmp thingies and some additional piping, or selling the house.
Happy New Year,
Jeff Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
"If you can keep smiling when things go wrong, you've thought of someone to
place the blame on."
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