Need help replacing outside hose valve

Hi, an outside hose valve is leaking, i have replaced the washers, but that didnt fix it, I want to replace all the parts that I have circled in the image. But I'm having no luck finding exactly what I need. Is it more common to replace the entire valve in the image rather than just the parts that connect to the top of the valve? If its possible to replace the parts I have circled, does anyone know how to shop for the right parts? Thanks

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Reply to
strangways
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.. a quick google search returns this youtube video - that might help <?>

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Good luck ; John T.

Reply to
hubops

Where is it leaking? Won't shut off or water coming out the stem. You probably need packing if it is the stem. If not shutting off, a washer usually fixes it but the seat can wear over time.

Sometimes it is easier to just replace the valve.

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

I suggest replacing it with a ball valve.

Reply to
Hawk

Replace the whole thing and if you are in a frost zone use a freezeproof "Hydrant" style

Reply to
Clare Snyder

On Wed, 24 Jun 2020 20:55:15 -0400, Clare Snyder posted for all of us to digest...

+1 To OP: Where is it leaking? Are you in a frost area? I have never seen the clamp arrangement.

Let us know what you are going to do and it's resolution.

Reply to
invalid unparseable

The clamp looks like it might be for a ground wire - ... not sure what outside device would require such a thing .. ? John T.

Reply to
hubops

...

That's just a ground wire clamp; nothing to do with the hydrant.

You can see the ground wire tacked to the foundation wall going down behind...

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Reply to
dpb

You don't need any new metal parts; just some small packing for the stem and washers.

If the seat isn't badly corroded or eroded, shouldn't be much problem.

You can just pull the stem bonnet screw off and wrap some packing around it and it'll hold for years...just did an old spigot out at the garden the other day--didn't even take turning off the water to back off enough with stem still in closed position.

Some small diameter 1/16" or so packing material is the ideal for such...you can cut off an inch or so and work it in until have enough when compress the nut back...

There may (or may not) have been an actual packing washer originally and you may/may not find one of the proper size but the loose packing will work just fine and doesn't need to be the exact mate for an original which is the trick for these old faucets.

Since it's obviously been there for years and hasn't split/frozen yet, there's no need replacing for that reason.

Reply to
dpb

OP here. I live in the North East, since someone asked.

dpb, what do you mean by packing? Is packing that white tape-line material you see on some shower heads where it screws into the pipe? Does it go into the treads? Thanks!

Reply to
strangways

No, that's teflon thread seal tape...

While they do make teflon packing, look up "string bonnet packing" -- it's what will seal around the stem through the bonnet cap...and by using string material you don't need to find a specific-sized washer.

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Reply to
dpb

If you go ahead and disassemble, you can see if there is/was a bonnet washer and, of course, measure it to see if can find one of same size.

The thing w/ the string packing, you can just leave the old one in and fill in enough w/o worrying about those specific parts...

Reply to
dpb

Definitely a grounding or bonding clamp

Reply to
Clare Snyder

On 6/25/2020 3:24 PM, dpb wrote: ...

...

Actually, not that I think of it; what I actually did was to leave the outlet hose which supplies the garden drip system from the spigot in place and turned the water on fully to lengthen the stem distance above the bonnet.

Then I was able to unscrew the bonnet sufficiently to insert the packing and retighten...there was some leaking around the stem while doing so, of course, but not enough so couldn't manage. Obviously, turning off the water supply lets you do it dry, but I was too lazy to walk all the way to the well house and there is no isolation here for this section except to the entire supply at the pressure tank outlet and the cattle were at the water tanks at the time so didn't want to cut it off...

Anyway, it's not a difficult exercise.

Reply to
dpb

valve?

Yup that is a relic from a bygone era when you could attach your ground electrode conductor to any convenient cold water pipe. I think that went away in the 80s when plastic pipe started being used more often. I know it was still legal in the 75 code and I never researched it further.

Reply to
gfretwell

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