Do you also use a bit of dielectric grease
on the push contacts, to retard corrosion?
A person with a dirty mind would have a
lot of fun, with enlarging bulging bannannas
and greasing push in terminals.
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
I have noticed on my HF meter (one of the bigger ones with the rubber
slip-on shell) that the banana plug interface between the leads and the
unit are the cause of high resistance readings when shorting the leads
(upwards of 10 to 15 ohms at times, and it is inconsistent). My guess
is that whatever coating they use develops a skin, which messes with the
The solution is to *gently* stick a jewlers screwdriver into the banana
plug end to slightly bulge out the banana, causing it to make a more
positive contact with the jack it goes into; this will return the
shorted lead resistance back down to the 0.4 or so Ohms that I usually
On Mon, 1 Jul 2013 18:40:19 -0700 (PDT), email@example.com
Google still finds them under Contact East, but I also found
"While some of you know us as Stanley Supply & Services, others still
remember us as Contact East or Jensen Tools. For more than 50 years,
we have been a leading supplier of products and services for the
electronics MRO industry and maintenance, installation and repair
professionals. Although our name changed to Stanley Supply & Services
in 2006, we continue to focus on providing your business with
high-quality, brand-name products and services. We're proud to be a
division of The Stanley Works (NYSE: SWK) and we're excited to offer
you some of Stanley's innovative products and brands."
After all this, since I don't know the Stanley Tools logo by memory, I
still can't tell if that who is talking here. I think so.....
I was so happy when I got a meter that measures temperature, but it's
been years and I havent' needed it yet. Still, I'm glad I have it.
When my 35 YO Fluke's display died for the 2nd time, I tried to get a
replacement, like the 1st time. However, they don't have part for it
any more. So, I looked around and for $76 I got this Triplett from Amazon:
(Amazon.com product link shortened)72768150&sr=8-2&keywords=triplett+multimeter
It's nicer than the old Fluke because it is true RMS on the AC scales.
It also comes with a temperature thermocouple. It also shuts down, if
you forget it on. And does many more things.
And capacitance and humidity!!
Do you think it has auto-polarity even though it doesn't say so?
I've been using analog meters to check capacitance. All I can do is
watch the resistance go from very low to quite high as the cap fills,
then reverse the leads and watch it happen again. I'm figuring this
would show a shorted or open cap. (except the small ones fill so
quickly I can't tell if it's open or not.) But I certainly can't
tell if they are the marked value.
Getting slightly off topic, there is a nifty device that will check almost
all small electronic components. It will do capacitors to about 100 pf or
It is just the electronics without a case,but the price is right shipped
direct form China for about $ 25.
Ebay number 221197915142
Certainly is an interesting page. Keep scrolling down to see the
It's times like this I wish I were a pro just so I could buy all this
Just like I wish I had my own business so I could buy lots of
busilness equipment, color laser printers, etc.
In the Navy in the 1970s, our two main meters
were the AN/PSM-4B and the Simpson 260.
Asked what the difference was, I used to say,
"Hold one in each hand at shoulder height and let go.
The PSM-4 case will not crack, and the Simpson will still work."
I'd cry like a baby if the Simpson 260 I've owned for over 50 years gave
up one me.
I treat it like a baby and religiously return the selector switch to the
1000 volt setting when I'm done using it.
But, I see there are lots of them on eBay for prices around $50. Chances
are they are probably in good shape.
I have one that is over 25 years old and would hate do with out it. I
don't use it very much as I usually use a Fluke digital, but there are
things that I would not like to use any other meter for. The Simpson still
checks out for calibration.
I also try to turn it to the highest voltage scale when I am done with it
and make sure the switch is in the off position. Not that it really cuts it
off, but jprobab ly puts a short across the meter so it will self dampen
when in motion.
If you need a schematic or the calibration for one look at this site.
To dampen the meter movement, when I used to use analog meters, you put
it on the highest current reading, not voltage. That will put a low
resistance shunt across the movement and provide the best damping for
For the meters that did not have the off position the highest current range
would provide the best dampning.
I just found it beter to put them in the highest voltage range so if someone
picked up the meter and put the probs across something with voltage on it
the meter would not likely be dammaged
Jeff probably did that for the same reason.
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