That dangling wire is likely your kill switch. You can remove the
blower housing easily enough and get a look at the ignition coil. That
wire ought to plug into a little tab on the side of the coil. If you're
missing the deadman brake assembly & control entirely, you can remove
that kill wire to avoid accidental shutdowns, but then you'll have to
kill the engine by shorting out the sparkplug with a screwdriver. You
could bolt a little strip of sheetmetal on top of the engine's head so
when you want to stop it you can step on it to push it into contact with
the plug. Not pretty, but works. Don';t use your bare hands to do it
If you want to repair it properly, look at your flywheel brake
mechanism. You should notice a small wedge on the side of the brake
lever that will contact a little piece of metal when the brake applies
and will move out of contact. The bit of metal that's being contacted
should be mounted in a little chunk of plastic. Thread the wire's end
into that bit of metal and make sure it isn't touching anything beyond
that plastic insulating block. It should actually have a little clip to
hold the wide for you. Everywhere else secure the wire so it won't get
tugged on by anything or pulled into the flywheel.
Does your carb have a choke or primer bulb? Should it? And are you
using it? Some engines will have the primer bulb integrated into the
air filter housing, so if that's gone, so is your primer. If that's the
case then your carb's flange where the filter should bolt will have a
little pinhole on the side. Either get your hands on a filter mount or
rig up a choke plate that can cover up about 3/4 of the intake's
The filter is required since even a little bit of grit in the engine
will work it's way into the oil and lap all of your bearings to death.
If you haven't already, it's a very good idea to change your oil.
Avoid using starting fluid to restart the engine when it's hot. The
stuff evaporates so fast it'll cool down whatever it lands on and stress
it. I've seen a valve cracked off from that. A little squirt of gas
should work fine to start up without the danger.
I think you're talking about the little square shaft poking out the
top with the one-way clutch in it. Your flywheel bearing is actually
the bearing in the engine block towards the flywheel side. If that is
seizing up, scrap the mower. But if it's just the starter on top of the
flywheel, you can fix it.
The square shaft is held in place by a flat metal disc which you can
pry off easily once you get everything out of the way. Do this with the
shaft pointed up because if you do it sideways for whatever reason
you'll lose the balls when they fall out.
It should be cleaned out completely--not a trace of rust or old
grease anywhere. Use emery cloth on the inside of the square shaft and
the round shaft it rides on. Then oil it with light oil--not grease.
There is probably a small spongy pad up inside. If it is, put a few
drops of oil on it. Engine oil is OK, but you might have to pull it
apart again next year. The balls and all surfaces they contact should
be clean and dry with no oil.
Also check the reel and cover to see if it's been mashed down any.
If it has it can also cause the bearing to seize and squeal.
If you need to replace it, remove the spark plug and stuff a length
of rope into the cylinder. Leave the end hanging out so you can pull it
out later. Rotate the engine backward until it stops due to the rope.
Now take some big-assed vise grips, channel-lock pliers, or whatever and
twist the cup (not the shaft!) backwards and it should screw off. You
can also use a hammer and punch on one side to break it loose. Take out
the rope. The new one just screws on hand-tight. It'll get nice and
snug the first time you pull the cord.
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net
Does the wire lead to a box that says "Series 4" or similar?
That's the kill for the deadman, When the deadman bar is released
it grounds out the coil as well as applys a brake to the flywheel.
Probably gummed carb. Pull the carb off the gas tank and check if the
intake tubes are plugged.
I may have an old filter box in my pile of junk that you can have for
the shipping charge if interested.
Once that starts seizing up it has to be replaced. The ratchet balls
eventually wear grooves in the housing and bind up the works. It's
about $15 and you need a special tool P/N 19244.
All ya do is take off the cowling, remove and ground the spark plug wire,
block the blade then unscrew it using the special tool. Installation is
reverse but ya torque the clutch to 55 ft.lbs.
Everyone's been helpful. The mower now works. From advices
I manage to find where the wire broke off from. I then plug it back
into into the spot where the wire broke off which is inside a box
that says"Series 4" or similar. I can now push the mower up and
down the driveway without stalling. The gas is dump for the third time.
The shaft with the one-way clutch opens as said. I find a little grease
but no structural damages. I wipe the grease and apply a bit of synthetic
ATF and it works great. Thanks for tips.
The mower doesn't have a primer bulb or need ether to start but it
won't start on its first attempt, which is great. I have managed to find a
used air box (without a primer button) that I will try to fit in, but if it
doesn't work out, which it will work out, I hope Nate will still come
thru with his offer.:-)
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