Move Toilet Drain

We have two 24 year old toilets that don't flush well so I plan to have the m replaced. The powder room has a standard 12" rough in so there are lots of choices. My wife selected one whose style is similar to the sink with d ual flush capability and comfort height quiet-close seat.
But the master bath only has 10" rough in which limits options greatly. Wh at would it cost (ballpark estimate) to have someone cut the slab and reloc ate the drain two inches away from the back wall? Or is this just complete ly impractical?
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On 2/26/2017 3:00 PM, Bob Simon wrote:

Go to:
https://www.totousa.com/products/toilets
then filter by 10" rough in
And FWIW, toto makes excellent plumbing products
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Kohler seems to have many 10 inch ...
http://www.us.kohler.com/us/browse/bathroom-toilets/_/N-2569Z1z141i2
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Bob Simon posted for all of us...

Didn't do much research did you? Look for 10" rough in toilets. I also like Toto but most manufacturers have good flushing water saving terlets now.
--
Tekkie

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This is the OP. Thank you all for your responses.
Yesterday, a friend who recently remodeled his bathroom looked at my toilet s. He said I was not measuring the rough in correctly. I estimated the lo cation of the center of the drain flange from the shape of the raised areas on the side of the existing toilet base. He said no, just measure from th e back wall to the center of the hold down bolts. When we did this, we cam e up with 11 3/8" for the one that I thought was 10". He said a 12" toilet fit fine without any extra parts for the waste drain. He also said to thr ow out the wax ring that comes with the new toilet and use a fat one, which will seal much better.
Was his advice on how to measure the rough in correct and do you agree with his statements on fit and the wax ring?
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On Tuesday, February 28, 2017 at 10:18:23 AM UTC-5, Bob Simon wrote:

ets. He said I was not measuring the rough in correctly. I estimated the location of the center of the drain flange from the shape of the raised are as on the side of the existing toilet base. He said no, just measure from the back wall to the center of the hold down bolts. When we did this, we c ame up with 11 3/8" for the one that I thought was 10". He said a 12" toil et fit fine without any extra parts for the waste drain. He also said to t hrow out the wax ring that comes with the new toilet and use a fat one, whi ch will seal much better.

th his statements on fit and the wax ring?
Oren already suggested a waxless ring, so I'll just echo his warning with a bit more detail. I was not able to use a waxless ring because I could not compress i t enough to fully seat the toilet. The last thing you want to do is crank down on th e bolts and crack the toilet. They just need to be snug enough so the toilet doesn't rock or shift. If they are getting snug and the toilet hasn't reach the floor yet, do not keep tr ying to compress the waxless ring.
You can buy wax rings with a rubber flange that goes down into the drain. I like those because they force the ring to be centered, ensuring a good seal. The double height rings may or may not be needed. It's hard to tell from where we're sitting. Worst case is th e wax seeps out or spreads out, making cleanup the next time more of a pain.
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