On Mon, 20 Jun 2011 09:32:21 -0700 (PDT), gcotterl
Yes. On a bicylce too. Enough that it straightens but doesn't
inflate. Not so much that it interferes
Yes. Make an effort to work the tire in evenly on each side of the
valve, to keep the valve pointing straight to the center. This is
1000 times more important on a bicycle than on a wagon.
It's amazing how getting it on can be harder than getting it off.
And it may be that it's harder for smaller wheels, I don't know, but
if there is stretching involved, maybe there is less stretching.
Start at the valve and use your thumbs to push the tire inside the
rim, alternating from side to side and working away from the valve.
At the end, screwdrivers are too sharp, you may need s bicycle-size
tire-iron, but since you'll never do this again, use the handle of a
spoon, like a cheap stainless steel soup spoon, not with a handle that
is pointed at all but a wide rounded handle or even one with a wide
rectangular end if it has rounded corners and edges. To further
protect the tire, don't push the spoon handle more than a quarter or
half inch past the end of the metal rim, under the tire. Then lift
the spoon and you will likely not be pinching the tube. I guess you
should uninflate the tube as much as possible before doing this, but
with bicycle tires, I don't.
It's that last little bit that's hard. But with experience you learn how to
I've never done a tire that small; have done plenty of bicycle tires;
OP may be able to push the seated portion down onto the rim below the bead.
This would push the unseated portion further out from the rim, giving him a
bit more wiggle room to lever the last bit over the rim.
But then he'd have to re-center the tire on the rim before inflating it to
make sure it spins true. I can't see it being that difficult.
I don't like wd40 - it attacks rubber. Might not be serious - and on
a non-driven wheel with no brakes you are unlikey to tear the
valve-stem out of the tube when the tire slides around the rim.
RuGlyde tire mounting lubricant is ethelene Glycol - vegetable based
(non phosphate) soap works reasonably well - (phosphates in most dish
detergents contribute to corrosion of aluminum wheels.)
Malco Tire Lube is a mixture, apparently, of
Isopropyl Alcohol- - Alkyl Olephin Sulphate, (a surfactant) and
Polyethelene Oxide. ( a lubricant)
Full strength Ethelene Glycol antifreeze works well in a pinch - and
isn'f FAR off from the commercial stuff.
On driven or braking wheels you want something that goes on slick,
and dries with some "bite" to it.
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