After being shown how a check valve can break and stick up preventing
water flow the proper direction, I was sort of 2nd guessing the
replacement of my pump. I asked them if they powered it up after
getting it out, no they didn't. Then I started thinking, they did
replace 1 check valve. I wondered could that have been the real
problem? Did I really need a new pump? I separated the two halves of
the pump and powered up the motor. It ran, but it spitted and sputtered
going off and on. I shook the pump half, it rattled a lot. I put them
together again and powered it up. The pump made a hell of a lot of
noise and the motor still sputtered.
Now I feel comfortable that I definitely needed a new pump. I'm glad I
told them to leave it here for me to dissect it.
No the new one is a 2 wire also. It would have cost about $1500 for new
8 gauge 3 with ground about $1000 for 10 gauge. At that price I could
have them pull it 5 or 6 times and still be ahead then if I went with 3
wire. And that's a quick wire price looked up online, I don't know what
kind of markup the well company has on wire. Hmm. Add another 50 feet
of wire to the house, and about $65 for a control box. Two wire will
suit me just fine.
I opened up my old motor as far as I could without a torch, there is no
capacitor to replace. Listening to it when it comes to a stop makes it
sound like it has the centrifugal actuated switch to change from the
start winding to the run winding but I can't say for sure.
I mentioned my motor had failed. Plumber found it drawing twice the
amperage that it should have. I have an ammeter and probably could have
tested it myself. Same thing had happened last time but they replaced
whole unit but this time just the motor. They did take it back to the
shop to test both.
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