There may be enough room for it, but not after you've taped it so that they don't short against the dimmer box. "Inline" fuse holders (like the automotive variety) are plastic and don't expose any metal bits. But they are kinda bulky, as are dimmers. Wouldn't lay odds you could install one in anything but the deepest receptacle box.
No. The dimmable version of Philips SLS 23 is hot cathode.
I imagine that there is some loss of efficiency when dimming a dimmable hot cathode CFL, since I suspect the ballast provides some means to keep the electrodes hot. I am not sure this is the case.
I expect any CFL will operate less efficiently when dimmed, but generally only slightly less efficiently when dimmed unless the dimming is very severe. I expect ballast losses to be a higher percentage of input power during dimming. Incandescents lose effciency much more than fluorescents do when dimmed.
Mebbe I'll just replace it with a decora single pole, then, and just install the new dimmer I bought right before I sell it. Being old, I never dim anyway.
All four of the table lamps with touch dimmers in our home are Asian styles with "full metal jacket" brass bodies. I installed the touch dimmers in all of them myself, inside the lamp bases.
When the time came to add those fuses I Installed panel mount 3AG fuse holders through holes I drilled in the side of the lamps bases, near where the lamp cords exited.
Things being what they are, every few years we get a new cleaning person and it sometime takes a little time for them to get used to those touch switches. So, after the first few housecleanings (we're absent when those happen) I'l maybe find the original manual switch on a lamp's bulb socket turned to the OFF position, and once a lamp wouldn't turn on when I touched it because the lady thought the fuseholder cap was a switch and twisted it so that it sprang out enough to open the circuit.
Well, I followed through and bought some 150 watt bulbs yesterday. While I was at the store looking at the lumen ratings of frosted incandescents I noticed that the 150 watt output of a "three way" 50-100-150 watt bulb was also considerably lower than that of the plain 150 watter.
I replaced the "Y" adaptor and its two 75 watt bulbs in just one of our two living room table lamps with a 150 watt bulb.
the results were pretty dramatic, the lamp with the 150 watt bulb was noticably brighter, so I put a 150 watter in the other one too.
Now I need someone to understand why the single 150 watt incandescent puts out 20 percent more lumens than the pair of 75 watt bulbs. (Are you reading Don Klipstein?) I'm guessing it might have something to do with more thermal energy being tossed away through four filament supports than through two, or something like that.
I'll be kicking myself for a while over not thinking about the lumen output when I decided to install those "Y" adaptors with pairs of 75 watt bulbs.
As my mother-in law used to say, "Jeff, for a smart guy, every once in a while you do stupid pretty good."
Yes, a "3-way" is just a 50 W and a 100 W in the same globe.
I can give you a partial answer. The filaments in higher wattage bulbs are designed to run at a higher temperature. At the higher temperatures, more of the radiated energy is in the visible light portion of the spectrum (see
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) (however still only around 3-5%). Why don't we just run all bulbs hotter? That dramatically decreases the lifetime of the filament. Why can we get away with running higher wattage filaments hooter than lower wattage ones? That's the part that I don't know.
P.S. Halogen is a technology for increasing the lifetime of the filament, allowing you to run it hotter.
Most people are unaware of that, including many energy conservation advocacy organization that encourage people to use lower wattage bulbs. Also, it is getting harder to find light output figures on many types of bulbs.
Maybe another reason is because the bases of both bulbs are the same diameter but the 75 watt bulb is physically smaller than the 150 watt one. That puts its filament closer to its the base which makes the base obscures a larger solid angle in the total sphere of radiation, thus blocking a greater percentage of the visible light?
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