The cheap answer is to tow a length of old railway iron or a section of old chain link fencing dehind your tractor to level the ground. You still need to compact the ground. The simplest way to do this is to drive a mob of cattle back and forth over it for an hour or two although if you feel rich you can hire a sheep's foot roller to do the same thing.
So how deep should you dig the post holes?
Dpends upon the building height, but standard for troll bridge supports is 36".
"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote
Bingo
That's a lot more constructive and useful answer than some..
As has been suggested, you're wasting your time with the string level.
7" over the area you're working with is more than your present tool can determine- use something worthwhile or just live with what you've got.Set the posts as you've been advised to in other strings. You say you've got a new baby- if he (or she) is ever going to be in this barn do you want it built to some bare minimum that you may not be qualified to judge? Don't be f****ng around with this sort of thing, it'll be a waste of your time and the time of those here who have tried to help you (and you'll also be a menace to yourself, your family and anyone else who may enter your building when the wind is blowing). You'll have a hard time finding more qualified advice than some of the people here, take their word for how to do things.. like the water level instead of that lame string level.
John
Google around March 10 by Ignoramus for this very same subject - lots of posts. Ken.
Water level, exactly what I meant. Gonna remember the word.
Nick
Y'know, Stryped, a lot of people have given you the time and effort to make detailed and constructive suggestions. But you knock off every idea with either "I don't want to do it that well", or "I don't know how to work wunna dem things."
This response is typical. You've received at least eight or ten suggestions that a water level is the way to go. I posted a _long_ diatribe on how to use one -- in detail.
Now, you say, "I don't unnerstan." Try reading. If not our posts, maybe one of those archaic things they call "book".
Sorry... It _kinda_ sounds like you want to build a barn. But other times you sound like a traditional troll.
LLoyd
No, there is a very easy -not to say idiot-proof- way of a water level modification. Build a wall out of concrete (at least 3 foot thick) around the place you want to level. fill the pool with water, until the whole aera is covered. Wait until it freezes and put a marking line around where the ice touches the wall. Next summer you can continue work and in the meantime leave us alone.
HTH, Nick
I am going to use it for a garage.
I read on that buildeasy site last night and now understand the concept but what I dont understand is I am guess ing you drive several rods and check each rod with the water level. So, I am guessing the water level is only good for that exact "spot" which means, for a 24 x 32 area, you will have to drive alot of rods to get any idea on how to get it perfectly level?
Doh!
Or, use the level to set a few grade stakes around the perimeter and stretch string...
WHO ARE YOU TALKING TO AND WHAT ARE YOU RESPONDING TO? Put some context in your posts if you want to communicate. Let me guess - you're posting via google, and are too lazy or clueless to find the little clicky-box that says "include context so people know WTF I'm responding to", right?
Yes, but toothpicks are cheap!
Nick
No, you do it with four, and some mason's twine. You could do it with three, but that would confuse you WAY too much.
(didja ever hear that three points define a plane? Nah... I didn't think so.... Basic, junior-high geometry... way, way outa your league.)
LLoyd
OK, then you might want it a little more level. It should pitch toward the door at least some. I assume you will cement the floor. Gravel should always go under the cement floor, or else you might just use gravel for the floor.
I'd just knock off the high end a little and pull it toward the low end. I hope the door is on the low end. Then use the gravel to level after building it. If you dig it down too much, the floor will be below grade and will flood when it rains. Either way, be sure to put treated boards (such as center match 2x6) around the perimeter at ground level. You dont want cement or gravel against the tin siding. I have a small shed that someone built that way, and it rusted off at the base. I finally cut off the bottom edge of the tin and installed the boards.
Finally, whatever you do for the floor, be sure it's above the outside ground level, especially if you dont use rain gutters. I know a guy that built a pole type garage, dug it into a hill and ended up with a mud hole to work on cars, and cars got stuck inside the garage and he had ice in winter. Plus he had the doors on the high side. Poor design all the way around. He is now stuck adding at least 8" of fill and gravel and pouring the cement. By the time he's done he will lose one foot of ceiling height.
Mark
Heh... even a blind pig finds an acorn once in a while...
Bam! Dave, you nailed another one.
Bob Sw>> I am going to use it for a garage.
WOnt the string get in the way when you dump the material?
The high side is on the right and the lower side on the left. The door is in the middle? Is that bad?
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