Does anybody know if the strings are supposed to stay lit if one goes
out? I realize each LED has a huge life, but the contacts could fail.
Thanks. Before I make the investment I want to know what I am getting
into, because that it why I have never used mini-lights.
That's not exactly true. I've yet to see one that failed anything but open
- circuit broken. If they are connected in series, and the cheapest ones
are, they will fail the corresponding section of the string just like the
regular lights. If you can find a 12V outdoor one, where diodes are
connected in parallel, one bad one will not bring the whole string down.
That said, I've yet to come across a 12V LED lights that were intended for
On Sun, 29 Nov 2009 04:13:01 +0000, info_at_1-script_dot email@example.com
The most common "initial" failure of a diode is to fail to a low
impedence - or a short - which in many circuits leads to high amperage
which then blows the diode to open.
In a series string environment, a "low impedence" failure does not
result in destructive high currents, so MANY times, a series connected
diode can fail "shorted" and the rest of the (light emitting) diodes
in the string will continue to light.
I don't know how old you are, but the "old-fashioned" kind that I think
of were wired in series and when one went out, they all went out. They
were a real PITA if you happened to have two bad bulbs in one string.
On most I've used, they all go out. However, I've got an exception
here. It's one of the 70-LED strings from Lowe's. About 10 LEDs have
gone out (some in each half of the string). The others are just as
The ones I've used seem to have
resistors in the sockets, which would
carry the load if a diode quit. And, in
the multi color strings, the resistors
seem to vary in value depending on the
color; some colors require more
current than others to give the same
light output appearance. I don't think
every color has resistors, but I don't
remember as I checked several years
Also, because the strings which I have
blink, due to the half cycle on and
half cycle off (they are 1/2 wave
rectifiers), I've added a full wave
rectifier to the plug end. I know that
individual diodes as there is twice as
much power dissipation, but no
problems after about 5 years. The full
wave rectifier also makes them a
White LEDs have traditionally been blue
inside with a phosphor that, when
excited, glows cool white. What I don't
like about the white LEDs is that
they don't seem to hold up for a long
time; they turn dim and sort of, blue.
Now, this year I've noticed "warm white"
LEDs in the Christmas decorations.
To me they still don't look like
traditional clear lamps. They have a
greenish-yellow color. And different
strings seem to look different in color.
Maybe in a few years they will perfect
the warm white thing, or .... we will
learn to get used to it.
On Sun, 29 Nov 2009 06:11:00 -0800, ransley wrote:
At least they aren't selling strings of CFLs ;)
Know what you mean though, it's not quite the same. But then for Christmas
lights they're not for illuminating the entire room, so I don't think the
not-quite-what-we're-used-to light output is much of an issue. (I spent
about an hour last night making three good strings of incandescent lights
from four, so anything that's more reliable gets my vote)
re: "Know what you mean though, it's not quite the same"
It's no fun stealing those little mini-bulbs. They just don't *pop*
when they hit the sidewalk like the old C7's (or better yet, the C9's)
On Mon, 30 Nov 2009 13:28:55 -0800, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I don't know, I seem to remember a few decades ago connecting LEDs
directly across 9V batteries to see how far across the room I could get
the fragments to fly when they exploded. I think it's possible for folk to
amuse themselves in destroying pretty much anything :-)
(the bulb story's funny, though - triggered a memory of me aged ten
or so being allowed to wrap failed incandescents up in newspaper and
then smack them with a big hammer, just for the nice popping sound they
made as they broke!)
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