The cold water laundry valve cannot be turned off. I tried to turn it
off but it appears stuck. Any tips on how to close it? The hot water
valve can be fully turned on and off.
Here are 3 pictures of the valves:
Looks like calcium build up, more so on the cold water. Soak both
valves, as best you can, with vinegar for an extended period, to get
the calcium off all parts. When all the calcium is off, just "play"
with the valve, gently to moderate force, until it loosens. If you
suspect further trouble, have a replacement valve on standby, just in
On Friday, June 29, 2012 4:58:56 PM UTC-7, email@example.com wrote:
Are you able to unscrew the bonnet (collar)? The bonnet is usually the six sided nut that is just under the handle. Turn-off the water to the house first and then unscrew the bonnet and then the stem. The stem is the part that is holding the handle. Everything unscrews counterclockwise. Preferably turn-off the water to the house during a time when the plumbing supply store is open and also when there isnt an urgent need for water.
On Fri, 29 Jun 2012 19:56:35 -0700 (PDT), firstname.lastname@example.org
sided nut that is just under the handle. Turn-off the water to the house first
and then unscrew the bonnet and then the stem. The stem is the part that is
holding the handle. Everything unscrews counterclockwise. Preferably turn-off
the water to the house
during a time when the plumbing supply store is open and also when there isnβt
an urgent need for water.
Look at the picture. It's a ball valve. No bonnet. No stem. But it
LOOKS like a thread on valve, not a solder on- so it should be simple
enough to replace it.
On Fri, 29 Jun 2012 21:14:56 -0700 (PDT), "hr(bob) email@example.com"
I agree to replace it, but before doing that, shut off the water in the
whole house. Lightly tap on the handle with a hammer. Then try to turn
it with a wrench. If it breaks, it's junk anyhow. Just be sure the
stores are open or you wont have water till you get a new one. Or buy
one first, and return it if you do manage to open the old one.
You'll probably have to replace the valve.
Hint: After installing the new valve, or anytime for that matter, after
opening the valve, close it 1/4 turn. Next time you have to fiddle with the
valve, the valve will then be capable of turning in either direction, which
might free the cause of the obstruction.
On Jul 2, 10:21 am, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I had a ball valve stick ONCE, spent over a hour messing with it.
physically its in a terrible spot wit zero clearance on top of a steel
beam:(.finally got it shut. using a piece of pipe over handle
the faucet discharged debris after washer replacement, and flow
my theory..... debris got in the line and got trapped at the ball
valve which wasnt fully open. the debris restricted flow. now i come
along to replace faucet washers, actually a delta single handle cups
and springs. ......... i find the supply valve refuses to shut...
mess with it a long time and finnally get it closed..... replace the
deltas parts, reopen supply valve....... see discharge of rocks, i
always leave the aerator off till the repair is done......
i happily note the flow is now normal for the first time in years:)
As far as I can tell this is the ONLY possible cause of the symptoms
1 - Buy a replacement valve
2 - Turn off water to house
3 - Open highest and lowest faucets to drain system
4 - Place pipe over handle of offending valve
5 - Attempt to close valve, support pipes if needed
6 - Decide whether valve needs to be replaced
7 - Do so or don't
8 - Turn water to house back on
9 - Close lowest faucet
10 - Close highest faucet
11 - Get startled the next time you open a faucet and it spurts
momentarily as the air is cleared.
12 - If you didn't replace the valve, throw the new one in your
plumbing supply drawer in case you need it in the future.
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