It does however make a difference if there is a monthly connection fee
of say $25. I don't think most people would include this in
determining the cost of running a fridge, since you're paying it even
if the fridge is turned off and using 0 energy. If you wanted to
apportion that $25, it should be apportioned to everything in the
house that could use electric, including the jig saw that is only used
once a year.
Thats exactly as it should be and all taxes/fees should then be
explicitly stated as line items. The provider is informing you what they
are charging to provide service. They are only acting as a tax collector
for the additional charges. This is no different than buying lunch and
declaring that the $5 price listed for your sandwich is fraudulent when
you pay $5.35 at the register. If you dislike the idea (I do) of weasel
politicians applying "taxes we won't notice" on everything then fire
them on election day.
I watched one utility change from an accurate cost per kWh (total bill
divided by total kWh used) listing on the bill, to one that excluded
taxes and fees from the calculation. During this change, there was no
notation of the change in the calculation and this was clearly a move to
make the cost of the electric service appear lower to customers who were
not paying attention or not good at math. After some time the notation
that this cost per kWh did not include taxes or fees mysteriously
I would like to modify this a little:
The total per KWH cost is determined like this:
1. Subtract from the total bill the amount not related to KWH, in the
likely event you have that. This would be a monthly line charge, monthly
billing charge, or the like.
Doing this leaves the generation cost, transmission cost, distribution
cost, fuel cost adjustment, energy optimization cost, male fertile bovine
digestive product cost, and the taxes that should at least mostly be on
these. These would be on a per-KWH basis.
(Should you find or determine a tax or surcharge or portion thereof that
is on the monthly flat fee as opposed to the per-KWH related charges,
subtract that along with the monthly flat fee. But if you fail to do
that, you should not be off by much.)
2. Divide the result of Step 1 by KWH consumed. That is your actual
(You will be off, very likely only very slightly, if you fail in Step 1
to account for any surcharges/taxes on non-per-KWH charges.)
- Don Klipstein ( email@example.com)
No, you have to include every single charge on the bill as it is a
component of the cost you paid per kWh during that billing period.
Whether some portions are fixed charges that don't vary with kWh used is
not relevant, they are still part of the cost you paid for each and
every kWh you used that billing period.
But not for the purposes of this discussion. Lets say the fixed charges
on an account are $20 and the total energy rate is $0.10/kwh. Lets say
the current use is 1,000 kwh/mo. That means the bill should be $120 ($20
+ 100) or $0.12/kwh per your method. If use was 100 kwh less (or more)
how much would the bill be? $110 or $130 respectively not $132 or $108
That is a cost that does not get reduced by reducing electricity
Going by what you advise, reducing electricity consumption of some loads
increases the cost of unchanged loads.
- Don Klipstein ( firstname.lastname@example.org)
If you are concerned with the cost/savings for changing any particular
appliance, you need to be concerned with the cost of that particular power usage
change, which is not affected by the base charge. So no, you don't want to
include the base charge.
You want the total cost.
They split it out so they can jack up the rates in a way you won't notice.
If your fridge is running all the time, you already have all the info
you need. You need to fix it.
The kill a watt won't tell you any more than that you need to fix it.
Fridge designs vary considerably.
First thing to do is check that it's defrosted. You can usually see the
coils in the freezer thru a grille somewhere. The motor that runs the
timer can freeze up (pun intended) so the defrost cycle never runs.
The evaporator coil gets covered with ice and the efficiency heads for
zero. If that's the case, you need to defrost it manually. Even if you
fix the timer, the defrost cycle wasn't intended to melt a solid block
I've had chunks of ice get caught in the inside circulation fan and
stop it from turning.
Vacuum the dust off the exterior condenser coils.
This is not correct. Modern refrigerators are designed to run nearly all
the time. Turns out it uses less energy to use a small motor and run it
constantly than to use a large motor and turn it on and off. If running all
the time is the only problem, get used to it. But using the Kill a Watt is
a good idea.
You dont need to know what you pay to use a kill a watt meter, it
stores Watts used over time for at least 100 hours on my old unit, you
then find the Gov energy rating to see if you are near in total Kwh
used. I bought a sears 19,5 cu ft fring years ago because it had the
lowest printed consumption I could find, my testing with a Kill a watt
meter showed my usage a bit higher but still it cost me only about
$4.50- 4.70 a month from the KAW meter vs $4.30 with the Energy Guide
ticket, that I adjusted to my KWH cost. www.energystar.gov has all
friges listed by KWH consumed. If your frige is way over in
consumption of the rating somethiong is probably wrong, unless
everyone keeps the doors open looking for food. The gov rating can be
nearly achieved, but you need minimal door opening, a 70 degree room,
and not settings on coldest to get that consumption rating. What you
KWH cost is is not what they say, it is what you PAY divided by KWH,
that will give you how many cents a Killowatt hour costs.
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