key broke off in Taylor deadbolt

[Saperstein]

I have a "Jimmy resistant" Taylor deadbolt lock that I have been using for years on one of my doors. It has sometimes been tough to open and close and I used graphite last year which helped and I just hadn't gotten around to redoing it this year. When I used the key to open it last night however, I noticed that the key had partially broken over the portion beyond the lock. The tare was quite bad, about halfway across the key width and I thought I would try and solder the sections. It seemed to solder, but when I tried to use it again, the key handle broke off leaving the remainder in the lock. I have two questions:

1) Is it possible to extract the broken section from the lock and, if so, how?

2) Is it possible to get a replacement key somewhere? I doubt anything could be made from this broken one now.

Thank you.

[Ed Pawlowski]

If you can get the part out a locksmith can probably cut a new key. Some locks/key have serial numbers and the manufacturer can sell you one.

Can you disassemble the lock from inside? If you take that section to a locksmith he may have something for extraction. OTOH, at that point may be best to buy new.

[Dean Hoffman]

I don't know the answers. Consumer Reports has these rated. I picked the ones under $100. Yale Premier YH82. Rating 83. $100 Kwikset 980 Rating 80. $30 Baldwin Prestige. Rating 80. $40 Falcon D241 Rating 75 $55 Falcon D100 Series D141. Rating 69. $75 The top one resists drilling better than the rest. It doesn't resist picking as well as the next two. The second and third ones resist picking really well.

Four locks got the top rating of 96. Medico Maxim. 11TR503-19. $230 Medico Maxim. 11*603 $190 Abloy ProTech 2. ME153. $350 Mul-T-Lock MT5+Hercular. $180

[gfretwell]

If you pull the lock cylinder out you can usually push the broken key out from the back with a paper clip. At that point it might be easier to buy a new cylinder than to get a key made from the broken part but you could try. Then fix the bind in the assembly before you break another one. I bet it is in the bolt, not the cylinder. It probably doesn't line up with the hole in the strike. That may actually be the other (spring) latch not holding it in position.

[bud--]

Replacing the cylinder may be cheapest and easiest.

Pushing from the back with a paper clip may (or may not) have a problem with pins blocking the broken key from being pushed out. Pins in front of the broken key can be lifted, another paper clip, at the same time as pushing.

There are broken key extractors. I suggest taking the cylinder to a locksmith.

A locksmith can likely make a new key from the pieces.

I would not expect solder to be reliable to repair a tear.

I have used graphite. But in a good usenet locksmith group, now inactive, a common recommendation was Tri-Flow. Not sure I would mix graphite and Tri-Flow.

Another possibility is key/pin wear. Wiggling the key up and down may make a key work (for a while).

[Wade Garrett]

I saw an Instagram/Youtube video that showed extracting a broken-off key from a lock using a common fingernail clipper. First remove the clipper's lever handle and pivot pin and then close the jaws of the clipper on the tiny bit of the key still sticking out then pull.

[rbowman]

I've got a selection of those pointy torture devices dentists use. They come in handy for fishing things out of tight spaces. The ranch store usually has a jar of assorted types for a buck apiece.

[micky]

If you want a project, you might be able to make an extractor tool like thos in the url from a broken hacksaw blade. Especially if you can't find them for sale, and cheaper too. I used to make lock picks that way, and they worked fairly well (but broke much sooner than real ones made from springier steel would have, but in your case, it only has to work once.)

Like those in the url would be harder because you have to get under the hook that is made, though you wouldn't have to go nearly as deep as the ones in the picture. You're not catching a fish so even a millimeter might well be enough to make a point that would catch on one of the teeth. It's not like the tooth is soft -- the hook will not go into it.

I only had a grinder when I would make mine but I'd use an angle grinder to make the indentation.

I started collecting springier steel, like the strap that held a picture tube in place, but never got around to making lockpicks from what I had.

Me neither. Not even for 5 seconds to extract something.

Never heard of Tri-flow. I hope I remember the word if I ever need it.

[micky]

Very good.

As an aside, they make clippers with curved and straight jaws, I guess for curved and straight toes.

I got one that was cheap but seemed reallly high quality. Beautiful finish. I think it was made for some other market, like party favours for rich people, and then sold on Amazon later. It was curved twice, back to front and top to bottom. Never saw that before. Like for a woman's small fingers.

Too bad, they're sold out, probably because they were some sort of special order in the first place.

[TimR]

Graphite and humidity sometimes makes concrete. I've been using the Tri-flow or similar silicone lube since that discussion. Some people swear by graphite though so i dunno.

My kids got a piece of wood stuck in a lock once trying to pick it. Once i got it out of the door it wasn't hard to disassemble. Actually it was a bit too easy and I ended up spilling the pins. Use care if you go that route. If you get the pieces of key out, a locksmith can measure the bitting and cut a new key, he doesn't have to use that pantograph thingie.

But I think it would be cheaper to throw it away and buy new.

[bud--]

In my notes from the newsgroup no one really says why it works better.

About all I see is it contains teflon (which is highly recommended) and is low viscosity to go and carry teflon deep into a lock.

Also can find locksmith recommendations on the internet with not much more information than above.

Manufacturer says: "a superior, light viscosity lube that allows for deep penetration into hard to reach moving parts. The aerosol spray action allows you to have a focused spray for even application. High-grade petroleum oils provide optimum lubrication under extreme temperatures (-60 to 475?F) and humidity. Formulated solvents soften and remove dirt and contaminants, while special additives displace moisture and prevent rust and corrosion. Formulated with P.T.F.E."

[micky]

Good suggestion. Although no dog, no street sweeper. And no more locks to pick, at least for me.

The last time I picked one, and the only time I picked one that wasn't my own lock, it was the faculty club in college. I went in the back door and down the steps to the commisary, the pantry, opened the lock with a pick, and took, that is, stole a can of something. Like many people of that age, I rationalized I wasn't doing it for the food but to prove I could do it. And that was true, but I could have just locked the lock back up without taking even one can.