Kenmore Dryer: Heating Element is Perfect - but No Heat.

[silenceseeker2003]

I have a Kenmore dryer (model no. 110.96588210) in which I gradually replaced every major part to the point it was running as new (heating element, belt, support rollers, motor).

It was running great for several month (after the last repair - in which I replaced the support rollers and the motor), but now it won't heat... not only it runs cool, the control dial (that sets the program) won't progress either.

I checked the heating element (about one year old) with an ohm meter and it seems to be perfect (~10 ohms).

I now believe that the problem must be in one of the parts that I

*didn't* replace (amazing how the manufacturer programmed the machine to be replaced after 10-12 years...). Probably something in the control mechanism (or themocouple?).

My question is: how do I pinpoint the exact part that needs replacement so that I can order it?

Thanks! Sam

[BobK207]

Sam-

Since you've already replaced a bunch of parts & are now getting no heat .....

I'm thinking its one of the heating element control thermostats, there are a couple and anyone if it fails open will kill the heating circuit.

like.....

the way to tell if they're bad is to take a look of them, if they look cooked they probaly are.

You can remove the wiring & check resistance.

I order from

they have a trouble shooting help that works pretty

cheers Bob

[Tony Hwang]

Hi, Trouble shooting is exercising logic. With a meter following step by step logic sequence. Like already mentioned thermal limit sesor switch may have popped(some are resettable). Looking at the diagram go backward from heating element towards the power source. Good luck,

[Edwin Pawlowski]

Try the diagnostic aids at

or

[silenceseeker2003]

Thank you all for your answers. I followed Tony's advice and with an ohm meter I verified:

1. Heating element - ~10 ohms (good)
2. THERMOSTAT 250 DEGREE F (P/N 3390291) - 0 ohms (good).
3. THERMAL CUT-OFF (P/N 3398671) - open circuit !!!

I believe that when removed from the system, at room temperature, the THERMAL CUT-OFF part should show 0 ohms - and thus this is the defective part.

Am I right?

Thanks, Sam

[BobK207]

Sam-

Sounds like you've found the culprit! Did it looked "cooked"?

cheers Bob

[silenceseeker2003]

Thanks! I am pretty sure this is the part that needs replacement although it doesn't look "cooked". I have verified with with of the web sites that you provided that indeed the thermal cut-off part should be normally conducting. It isn't, thus it is the culprit. I will shortly order the part.