Kenmore Appliances

[cover]

I purchased a Kenmore Elite model 110-24962300 clothes washing machine a while back and for some reason, it appears to be leaking at the front of the unit. We were a bit dismayed to discover that we can't get a repair person here until Dec 30 and very much irritated to be experiencing this failure right on the heels of that of our new Kenmore refrigerator this past summer where we lost a couple of hundred dollars in food. I personally have had it with Kenmore and absolutely will not purchase another appliance from Sears in this lifetime given their sudden failure rate and poor service and that said from a lifelong Kenmore appliance user.

, I cannot see how the front of this unit comes off. My last Kenmore washer was pretty simple - 2 screws and off the front came. This unit is somewhat of a 'wraparound' albeit with no fasteners of any kind anywhere. Does anyone have any experience with one of these wraparound units or better yet, this model in particular who may be able to tell me how to at least get the front cover off without tearing up the unit aesthetically?

thanks, Chris

[Leigh Menconi]

I've looked up parts & services manuals online. If it's a newer model, it's bound to be there somewhere in PDF form.

Leigh in raLeigh

[Tom]

Pop off the two end caps of the control console. You'll find a screw at each end under the end caps. Remove these and flip console up. You'll then find two clips that you can remove with a screwdriver. Remove these and unplug the wires that go to the lid switch (of course, make sure machine is unplugged first). Then spread the body of the unit in back slightly so it comes out of the two plastic "H" channels and lift and pull forward the whole body ( sides and front) in one piece. Reverse procedure to replace body. I suspect you'll find that the water pump seal has failed if the water is coming out from under the machine in the front center. Easy to replace. Water pump is held to motor by two thumb clamps and of course hose clamps on hoses. If your machine ever stops spinning and/or agitating and it makes a clicking noise, it's common for the connector between the motor shaft and transmission shaft to break. Same procedure as above but continue on removing thumb clamps on motor to remove motor after water pump is removed. This connector is designed to fail if machine is overloaded or agitator is bound up by the clothes. Kind of like the "shear" pin on an outboard motor or snow blower.

Tom G

[Spindler of Kittens]

You're kidding!? Are there really that few appliance repairmen in your area, or is this someone being sent out by Sears? I'm not sure if it's universal, but I have the strong impression that Sears simply pays local people to do things like repairs, installations, & what-have-you...and if it isn't under warranty, you're likely better off finding a good repairman on your own.

[snip]

[Q]

Tom's advice is excellent. A water pump is quite easy to replace on these units.

Personally speaking, I like the 110.(Whirlpool) source units. They hold up well and are very easy to repair.

Q (ex sears appliance repair man)

Tom wrote:

[jtnospam]

, I cannot see how the front of this unit comes off. My last Kenmore washer was pretty simple - 2 screws and off the front came. This unit is somewhat of a 'wraparound' albeit with no fasteners of any kind anywhere. Does anyone have any experience with one of these wraparound units or better yet, this model in particular who may be able to tell me how to at least get the front cover off without tearing up the unit aesthetically?

thanks, Chris (snip)

Sometimes this kind of work on your own will void the warranty. Sears wants to sell new appliances, not keep already-sold ones going, which is why they make it difficult to be user maintainable, and why the repair is so slow. It is the sort of short-term profit thinking that ruined General Motors and that is tearing down Sears too.-Jitney

[timbirr]

I'd agree about the water pump being the likely culprit. This is a Whirlpool-built Kenmore. I really hate the cabinet removal procedure on these, it's a bit fussy, although, of course "do-able."

The Maytag's are much easier to pull open -- and considering Maytag's reliability record lately, it's a good thing. ;>D

[Spindler of Kittens]

I like my ancient Maytag (prob 40+ years old), I need to replace the clips to hold the front on, but it just keeps going, and going, and going. I just don't want to have to move that heavy thing again.

[timbirr]

Wish I still had my Maytag of a couple of four or so decades ago. I bought it used for $25, used it for nine years and then sold it when I moved -- for $25. It's quick and simple to pop open the Maytag. A repair book at the library probably has illustrated pictures of how to open the Kenmore/Whirlpool.

The only trick is that the newer model Whirlpools have more plastic and it is probably easier to snap something nowadays while removing the cabinet.

[Gary Dyrkacz]

Gary Dyrkacz [e-mail] Radio Control Aircraft/Paintball Physics/Paintball for 40+

[Charlie Bress]

Along the same line, I bought a TV from Sears about a year ago and a DVD/VCR player about 4 months ago. Both of these were not Sears brand, but Toshiba. When I had problems with both of these and called Toshiba for warranty service, I found that Sears had as the one who had to do repairs. The local TV guy said that if he did it (and he is an authorized warranty repair shop) he would not get paid because it was up to Sears. I had similar problems in getting stuff picked up and delivered. Even when Sears called to say the TV was fixed, they said it could not be delivered for a week. Total BS. If the local guy had fixed it the turnaround would have been 4-5 days instead of what worked out to 3 weeks.

Lesson learned here. Ask who does the repairs before the sale is rung up. Sears does it. Sorry, no sale!

Charlie

[mm]

If it's aWhirlpool built, I have a little experience with that, and in mine, there is no need to take off the front to removed the water pump. It can be done from the back (and maybe the bottom too, I don't reember. Once the water was out, I tipped it over forwards.

(As it turns out, I may not have needed a pump at all. My output hose might have been kinked. I have to learn to go slowly.)

Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let me know if you have posted also.

[Q]

Sears used to do repairs at the local Sears unit, but now all products are shipped to a central repair shop. Stuff from Oregon gets shipped nearly 1000 miles to Fontana California for repair. So you want a tune up on your Sears mower? Believe it or not they even put lawnmowers on a truck and ship them hundreds of miles for 20 minute repair. Over 30 percent of "repaired" items are not properly repaired or are damaged during shipment. Pretty soon they'll be shipping to Mexico for repair.

Q (ex Sears repair man)

Charlie Bress wrote:

[Tom]

Since about 1983, Whirlpool washers can't be accessed through the back panel. Back panel is part of the main frame from which everything else hangs. I had a customer who used a crowbar to pry the back panel back so he could see inside to make repairs...obviously he then had to buy a new washer.

Tom G.

[mm]

Thnks. Good to know.

That's sad, but the funny thing is that when the OP said he was trying to pry off the front panel, I had an image of him doing just that kind of damage to *his* washer!

Generally one shouldn't use a crowbar on appliances.

Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let me know if you have posted also.

[cover]

I like to think that I am at least 'somewhat' mechanically inclined but couldn't get the end caps to 'pop off' to save my butt. Finally stopped for now before I did any damage. Removed a small machine screw from both sides on the rear of the control panel which 'appeared' that they may be related to the end caps but those caps wouldn't budge.

Shot a digital pic of one end at the URL below to show what cap is on the end of the panel. Any thoughts?

thanks

>Pop off the two end caps of the control console.

[Q]

Look at the front of the console. Slide your hand along front of the sheet metal console until it reaches the raised plastic parts on the front corners. These are the parts that pop off. Slide a putty knife between the front of the sheet metal console and the plastic end piece and gently pry it up. Under there is where you will find the philips head screws. Remove those screws, one on each side, grab the console on the ends and slide forward about 1/2 inch then lift.

Q

cover wrote:

[timbirr]

First, put the screws you took out, back on. Now take a look at this series of photos. As mentioned, the newer models have trim pieces over the screws, but the screws are at the same place:

[james.boyle]

There may not be philips head screws on your model.

On my Kenmore Elite 110.2495 there are clips that hold the control panel to the lid. You have to open the lid to the washer and reach between the tub and the lid to a spot underneath the front corners of the control panel.

You will feel a semicircular clip that holds the control panel to the lid. Squeeze it and push the front of the clip to the rear of the washer. Once it is squeezed enough that corner of the control panel will come free of the lid. Repeat for the other corner.

Once both have been released lift the control panel and then rotate it back on the hinges you show on your photo.

Then follow the rest of the instructions at the washer_repair URL given in the previous post.