They are sorta listed
They have a sticker "Listed to UL 67 by [Wylie Labs logo]"
Wylie is a Nationally Recognized Testing Lab. Depends on whether your
AHJ recognizes Wylie, and what "listed to" means.
It is up to the dreaded AHJ
The problem with small generators and interlock kits on your main
panel is load management.
Finding the combination of breakers the genset will carry and still
get what you want going may be tough. Most panel directories are just
a rough idea of what you are powering when you turn them on.
You certainly are well served by spending the time to get a detail map
of what each breaker controls. Using a clamp on amp meter is a plus.
You really want to do this on a sunny day in good weather, before the
storm. Create another directory with which breakers you want on in
different scenarios. Your dryer may be the only thing on the genny if
you want to do a load of clothes. ... and you will
On Nov 6, 11:39 am, email@example.com wrote:
It may be difficult if you're totally clueless. But otherwise, for
folks here, the process is simple. Just disable all significant loads
appliance itself and/or by opening large breakers.
AC, oven, electric water heater will have 30A+ breaker
Furnace can be shut off at furnace safety switch or via thermostat
Make sure you don't have any electric heaters plugged in.
Then open all breakers and selectively turn on what you need
one at a time.
I've already got that part down. That's pretty much what I do
anyway- With extension cords to the panel for now. Pick a circuit,
disconnect it, and tap into it at the box.
I got as far with the transfer switch as deciding which circuits would
be used-- and how I'd combine one because in a perfect world I could
use things that appear on 7 circuits. The interlock cover/kit
solves that nicely.
All I need to do now is determine what would be the best way to write
simple instructions on something that 10 years from now, the dog can
go down and follow.
I remember doing it many years ago and it *was* an adventure. There is
some real creative wiring in this old house.
To store, to find when needed. To attempt to be used say by a child or
an elderly person or even you if sick.
Its a lot better to just have something that works. I would much rather
have the heating system, fridge and other basic stuff running and maybe
worry about a flashlight than have to scramble in the dark or when sick
trying to get a heybub system running.
My neighbor paid a whopping $300 to have an automatic transfer switch
It often costs a few bucks to get a decent system installed but it
certainly isn't a fortune. I also paid to have water lines run and to
have a permanent heating system.
My suggestion on extension cords was not meant to be an end-all, be-all. But
it IS a practical solution for some configurations and some needs. Extension
cords are worth considering, especially for the simple and straight-forward
application put forth by the OP.
Me? I have an interlock.
years old). Just kill the power and wire up a few breakers. I assume someone
fairly handy can do this yes? (did plenty of home wiring in our old house) Was
thinking 6 circuit Reliance transfer switch (20 or 30 amp) would do the trick.
Probably the cheapest way to do a transfer switch is an interlock kit:
(originally from John Grabowski)
You put a circuit breaker in the panel adjacent to the service
disconnect and back feed it from the generator. There is a mechanical
interlock mechanism on the panel cover that prevents both the service
disconnect and generator breaker from being on at the same time. You
turn on only what you want to run at a particular time and the generator
The code also wants a simple mechanism from the manufacturer that
prevents the backfed generator breaker from unplugging.
Have you seen the prices on these? To fit my Square-D box, the part number
is K-5010. This part is a flat piece of metal, about 6x6 inches, with two
holes for screws. The price is $150.00 (up)!
If it wasn't dishonest - or at least immoral, I'd buy one from Grainger,
copy it on a piece of sheet aluminum, then return the original to Grainger.
Anybody have one I can borrow to make the copy? Or can you provide a tracing
As of this moment, I don't have an interlock. I DO have detailed
instructions on the inside of the breaker box.
Current thinking is to install an Interlock kit. Looks like for my GE breaker
panel it costs $149. Going to call my electrician to see how much he will
charge to install it. Seems more difficult to install than a transfer switch.
On Saturday, November 3, 2012 6:11:04 PM UTC-4, HeyBub wrote:
It seems "GE PowerMark Gold Load Center/Generator Interlock Kit" for $43, plus a
"Reliance Controls 20-Amp Power Inlet Box" for $51 plus the wire and generator
cable is all that I would need, right?
All the breakers I would turn on are 120 volt 20 amp ones. Is that the correct
inlet box I would need for a 5000 watt generator?
On Sunday, November 4, 2012 12:29:03 PM UTC-5, noname wrote:
breaker panel it costs $149. Going to call my electrician to see how much he
will charge to install it. Seems more difficult to install than a transfer
Piddly. You drill two holes in the panel cover to mount the plate. Done.
This thing is a flat piece of metal that slides left-to-right (or up/down)
to prevent both the main breaker and the one going to your generator plug
from both being "ON" at the same time.
Have you seen the number of wires involved in a transfer switch? For six
circuits, you have to re-route and connect about 14 separate wires. And
about half of them will be two inches too short ! You have to mount the
sucker on the wall. All in all, a non-trivial installation.
Being the OP I've just decided to install a 6 circuit transfer switch. $250 does seem like much since I can install it myself. Thanks for all the input.
On Friday, November 2, 2012 7:51:04 PM UTC-4, noname wrote:
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