I've been reading about these since right after I bought my transfer switch.
From interlock.com they run about $150. there are others in other places-- but none have the UL sticker, FWIW.
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But most manufacturers make a UL listed cover for their boxes. So far, I've not been able to find one in stock for my 30yr old CH box-- but they list for $240. I'm willing to pay the extra for a shiny new cover [mine has some surface rust because of a once *very damp* basement] and the UL sticker.
I've got some searches with the part number stored on ebay so maybe I'll get lucky before I just go ahead and buy the interlockkit one.
In my setup somebody has to go out an start the generator. I'm not sold on the automatic setups, but if you've got one then money is no [less of an] object and you can set up a transfer switch that does all of your panel.
In the too sick- elderly or too young scenarios it becomes a matter of having someone else do the job, or going to where there is power if you need it.
The problem with small generators and interlock kits on your main panel is load management. Finding the combination of breakers the genset will carry and still get what you want going may be tough. Most panel directories are just a rough idea of what you are powering when you turn them on. You certainly are well served by spending the time to get a detail map of what each breaker controls. Using a clamp on amp meter is a plus.
You really want to do this on a sunny day in good weather, before the storm. Create another directory with which breakers you want on in different scenarios. Your dryer may be the only thing on the genny if you want to do a load of clothes. ... and you will
My suggestion on extension cords was not meant to be an end-all, be-all. But it IS a practical solution for some configurations and some needs. Extension cords are worth considering, especially for the simple and straight-forward application put forth by the OP.
It may be difficult if you're totally clueless. But otherwise, for most folks here, the process is simple. Just disable all significant loads at the appliance itself and/or by opening large breakers.
AC, oven, electric water heater will have 30A+ breaker Furnace can be shut off at furnace safety switch or via thermostat Make sure you don't have any electric heaters plugged in. Then open all breakers and selectively turn on what you need one at a time.
I've already got that part down. That's pretty much what I do anyway- With extension cords to the panel for now. Pick a circuit, disconnect it, and tap into it at the box.
I got as far with the transfer switch as deciding which circuits would be used-- and how I'd combine one because in a perfect world I could use things that appear on 7 circuits. The interlock cover/kit solves that nicely.
All I need to do now is determine what would be the best way to write simple instructions on something that 10 years from now, the dog can go down and follow.
I remember doing it many years ago and it *was* an adventure. There is some real creative wiring in this old house.
If you have an automatic transfer switch the generator has to supply all the load wired to the transfer switch.
With a manual transfer switch you can use a smaller generator and select the load you need to run at a particular time, maybe furnace now, then refrigerator.
have a sticker "Listed to UL 67 by [Wylie Labs logo]" Wylie is a Nationally Recognized Testing Lab. Depends on whether your AHJ recognizes Wylie, and what "listed to" means. It is up to the dreaded AHJ
The NEC is the basis for electrical codes "everywhere". If the NEC is enforced you can't connect a furnace with a cord and plug. The AHJ, as mike wrote, can allow it.
It is not specified in the code. It is just the manufacturer's installation instruction and the listing of the furnace.
For that matter, it is a violation of the listing to replace the plug on a lamp or a tool but I don't see swat teams breaking down your door to arrest you for it.
I am an inspector and if this was done using a proper cord and cord grip, I would not say a thing. When I asked my boss what article 90-4 meant, he said, just make sure it's safe.
"90.4 Enforcement. This Code is intended to be suitable for mandatory application by governmental bodies that exercise legal jurisdiction over electrical installations, including signaling and communications systems, and for use by insurance inspectors. The authority having jurisdiction for enforcement of the Code has the responsibility for making interpretations of the rules, for deciding on the approval of equipment and materials, and for granting the special permission contemplated in a number of the rules."
------------------- I take the question to be whether an ordinary furnace can be connected to the wiring system with a cord and plug that plugs into a receptacle.
It does not, IMHO, fit any of the permitted uses for cord connection in
400.7-A.
It is, IMHO, a substitute for fixed wiring, which is prohibited in 400.8.
And the plug, by itself, is prohibited in 400.7-B
It is not changing the way the equipment was intended to be connected and is compliant with 400.7 and .8.
As I wrote, the AHJ can allow it.
A furnace could be wired with a short cord (maybe a foot) to a receptacle, where there is no strain from a long cord on the cap. That could be relatively sensible if you wanted an easy way to connect to a generator.
bud-- wrote in news:509d9194$0$65445$c3e8da3 $ snipped-for-privacy@news.astraweb.com:
Pardon my English and lack of proper jargon. PLease comment on the following: My heating system is ~10 years old, gas-fired, with a 0.75A water circulating pump, damper relay and thermostat, located in the basement of this 83 year-old house.
I want to wire the furnace so I can use a generator and not have to fiddle with the existing wiring every time. I am planning to use a 3 ft cord, gently stapled to the joist, because the area is relatively inaccessible over the boiler. This would make it easier to change the plug from outlet 1 to outlet 2. The cord will be wired into existing junction box (1).
The cord will be alternatively plugged into outlet 1 or 2, which are separate (dual) outlets in the same (new) junction box (2). There will be a continuous ground between outlets 1 and 2, also attached to the metal box.
Outlet 1 will be get power from the Romex cable that now is wired into existing junction box (1) leading to furnace, thermostat etc. It comes from another junction box (3) with 1 of 3 switches that each cut off power to the furnace (don't ask). This switch is the oldest, electrically closest to the breaker panel. There is another switch at the bottom of the basement stairs, and then the newest switch is mounted on the furnace.
Outlet 2 will be wired with a short cord (gently stapled to the same joist) with a plug where it will be plugged into the generator cord, which will only be there during generator usage.
That's the plan ...
Stated differently:
Furnace etc ---> box ----> corded plug either to outlet 1 or outlet 2. Outlet 1 and outlet 2 in 1 metal junction box with continuous ground. Outlet 1 will be wired by romex cable into the existing wiring, i.e. directly into the breaker, nothing else on that breaker. Outlet 2 will be wired to a cord and plug, ready to be plugged into the cord from the generator. There will not be neutral or hot wires connecting outlet 1 to outlet 2. The corded plugs will be from heavy duty window air conditioner cords.
(A)(6)"Connection of utilization equipment to facilitate frequent interchange".
Since neither "frequent" nor "interchange" are defined it is a "hold your nose" legal loophole.
A waste disposal is also a fixed in place appliance and we have no problem with them being C&P with similar sized motor loads.
See above.
(B) Attachment Plugs. Where used as permitted in 400.7(A)(3), (A)(6), and (A)(8), each flexible cord shall be equipped with an attachment plug and shall be energized from a receptacle outlet.
How is that? it is intended to be plugged into a receptacle.
It is still a violation of the listing and after you knock down the
400.7 problem, that is what you are left with.
Which is pretty much what we have been talking about.
Don't get me wrong, I can argue your side just as well ... but not to a homeowner who is freezing his balls off and worrying about his pipes.
This can be done safely and that is my biggest concern.
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