I want to put the cabinets on a stud wall covered with drywall.
What do i do with say a 15" wall cabinet,because the cabinet will only cover
What do i do in that case ( don't i need to support a cabinet on more than 1
Use more screws in the one stud you have available that will hold the load
and then add a couple of mollies to the drywall that will keep the cabinet
against the wall and not start it rocking on a high point and add some
strength vertically as well. If it's only a 15 wide cabinet chances are it
won't be loaded with China?
In addition to screwing them to the wall studs, cabinets are normally
installed with 2-3 screws through the styles (the vertical hardwood piece on
each side) so that they are connected to each other. Some 12" wide wall
units never hit a single stud.
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Ya beat me to it. That is the traditional and proper approach, if he has
traditional 'real' cabinets, that at least have hardwood fronts. If he
has the chipboard junk common today (some of which makes face frame from
wrapped chipboard stock), or the 'euro-style' cabinets with no face
frame, you have to stare at it all awhile and decide what looks solid
enough to screw through. Sometimes big washers, and maybe even a block
on the other side to screw into,are indicated, or the screw will pull
right through or out. Last two apartments I had, there wasn't any real
wood in the damn cabinets. The first place I had in this town, one of
the cabinets fell apart when the chipboard decided that holding on to
the staples was too much work.
(I sure am glad the previous owner of this place didn't 'upgrade' from
the original 1960 hardwood cabinets, in spite of the botched DIY
refinish he put on them. <That> I can fix, one of these days, since he
did not strip the old finish, first.)
Having done the drywall in MANY kitchens both new and reno over the last 20
years, what i've seen is soild blocking where the cabinets will attach or
the entire wall is covered with half inch plywood or Advantec BEFORE drywall
is installed...Depending on the quality and number of uppers with hood ,
microwave,ect you could be hanging several hundred pounds on the
wall.....Some new kitchens are framed with 2X6s with solid blocking instead
of 2X4s for that reason....Replacing drywall is easy on walls to be covered
with cabinets if you want to remove drywall and add solid blocking
everywhere it is needed. Just put a full sheet of drywall in the center and
fill in the top and bottom. No seam to tape as the cabinets will cover them
, just screws to mud between the base cabinets and uppers....Very little to
paint as well...Good luck...
The other posters have covered the high points. Google 'french cleat
cabinet' to see another method - a hanging rail. That's the standard
European method, and what IKEA cabinets use. It does become an issue
if your cabinets weren't designed for a hanging rail - then the side
of the end cabinet can be seen to stand off from the wall. That can
be dealt with by using a filler strip, trim or a side panel.
They do it in Europe because the kitchen cabinets are considered
furniture, not fixtures- people commonly take them when they move, along
with any hanging light fixtures.
Cleats are fine, but if you have kids and/or earthquakes, I'd still run
a screw in here and there, to tie it all to the wall. A good temblor, or
a kid playing Superman standing on the counter, could lead to a tragedy.
An upper cabinet full of canned goods ain't light.
Standard height cabinet? Can't imagine anything you can put into it
that won't be held by two screws
into the same stud. Are their cabinets on either side, both sides,
none? A 15" wide isn't going to have
a much heavier load on one side vs other, so don't really understand the
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