Way back when put in the feedlot and wired the waterers for the heaters, Dad used a crimp-on connector that went around (stripped section ~1" long) 4 GA AL feed and allowed a #14 to #10 pigtail to be joined for the individual boxes without having to cut the main feeder.
I'm needing to add a new connection and can't find anything similar nor think of exactly what to call it to search...anybody got a clue or lead to one?
I'd really like to not have to insert a splice...
AH! AMP they were then, it appears in the COPALUM series now sold by Tyco -- but I didn't find the style any longer there...just butt connectors/lugs.
I did find from Morris the H Tap which is a near look-alike -- the kicker is going to be finding one as the size needed is in the "Call Factory" availability...
Probably not a Home Depot thing but any real electrical supply will have them
Well, that's pretty strong assumption for the one supply here in town... :)
I can't tell for sure; those by the figure look to be inserted both ends with insulation-penetrating connections.
Here's what was looking for
excepting they don't seem to have the smaller conductor tap option.
I couldn't think of the "H-tap" description before; and to my surprise they did actually have some on hand so I'm all set here after dinner...
I was just trying to get you into the catalog. The Kupl Tap does separate to go over existing conductors.
snipped-for-privacy@aol.com posted for all of us...
And it is insulated, requiring only a wrench.
Burndy split bolt connectors
Try Burndy Servit connectors - split bolt -
That requires stripping a potentially "hot" connection and you end up taping them back up. The Kupl Tap can be installed hot and there is no insulation to repair. The first time I saw them, my first thought was "these were made to steal power" ... but that would be wrong. ;-)
Couldn't tell about the separation and the catalog didn't seem to have datasheets.
I'll have to look into them more for future; at the moment I needed something now, having waited until the last warm day before weather hits to get the heater going again...
The local distributor did have a Blackburn of the right size in stock to my extreme surprise so I'm not in business...water is on and the heater is just waiting for 20 F in a day or so they say...today was 65F while tomorrow is only mid-40s so figured I'd enjoy the task far more today than to wait. :)
I got a few in a sample pack that they were handing out in an inspector meeting. I wasn't sure where you might buy them. It did look like an interesting product to me tho. The Ilsco guy was saying it was the best thing since sliced bread but that is what those type of guys do for a living.
Hadn't seen them before - they look great!
Can't get anything simpler and more reliable than a split bolt connector - properly installed and sealed. A bit more work than the Kup-L Tap
Certainly since they do split shell then not having to strip large carrier insulation live would be _a_good_thing_ (tm) -- here just #4 on the ground with a poured slab to work on in 65F weather where can throw the breaker isn't an issue...I've got a general crimper with enough choices in the rotating dies can get close-enough to most anything to make the crimp.
I think Dad hired out the wiring of these way back when they were put in in early 1960s, fortunately, they ran 240V feed from one watering station to the next; this is the last one in the chain and the side the heater was on for it had failed but the other hot is still ok so I could tap into it to get going instead of having to dig up the feeder and replace it. I had patched it a couple times a couple years ago but the one side had failed again. I had really presumed both were probably out in that run but decided to check the other side first -- glad now I did!
I agree a split bolt is a lot better connection than a Kupl Tap but I am not hearing any horror stories.
yet? It IS "certified" for use with both aluminum and copper - but how long have they been in use???
On 11/6/2018 7:51 PM, Clare Snyder wrote: ...
Simpler, yes. If wire sizes are near, I'll also agree on reliability being ok; when it's a smaller tap off a larger feeder as this case, then it's not as easy to capture the smaller and keep it secure as with the H tap sized for the purpose...of course, one does need to have the crimper...
If you know what you are doing a split bolt will tap a #14 onto a #2 with no problem at all - and all you need is a pair of wrenches and a jack-knife. ANd the Kup-LTap we were discussing doesn't need a crimper either
It will do it, yes. My experience has been that the smaller with time will tend to work out. That's from observing the behavior of those on the overhead feeds that have been in place for a long time.
W KS wind moves them much more than if were in protected location, of course, is part of the problem. Where this connection is, under the waterer it would last indefinitely, likely, yes, because it isn't under any stress whatever.
But, I already had the crimper and imo a couple squeezes with it isn't any more of an issue than tightening a bolt and it's much neater in the end. IF the supply house hadn't had the H tap in stock, I'd have gone ahead and made the connection to get the heater going using a split nut but would have (eventually) gone back and replaced it with the other; this way I'm done and happy... :) We all have our own prejudices of what we like/dislike...
If you are using a split bolt joining copper and aluminum you should use the one with the interposer between the 2 conductors. That also mitigates the size differences too.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.