On Dec 17, 3:05 pm, email@example.com wrote:
I understand this. Ideally you would have lower registers for heating
and upper registers for cooling. I will talk to HVAC pro but I still
want to see what generally accepted solution to locating register is.
From space perspective I want them all to be high close to ceiling.
Right now several of my existing registers are blocked by furniture.
On Thu, 17 Dec 2009 11:25:14 -0800, jamesgangnc wrote:
I'm always surprised that even works - it means really long runs, going
through cold attic space, only to have warm air come out at ceiling level,
right where it's least useful for heating the room.
Yes, that's the problem I have in our place - no upstairs ducted heat
(just electric baseboard), and it'd be hard to get anything up there due
to the layout and wall thickness. All the upstairs rooms have two windows,
too, so I'd really need two registers per room.
I'm thinking water-filled rads would be a *lot* easier - I should be able
to run plastic pipe without disturbing the floors too much Only downside
is that I need quite a few pipe runs at right-angles to the floor joists,
and I don't like drilling holes in critical structures :-)
One possibility is to do the plumbing runs on the wall surfaces, and hide
them behind a kind of cove or crown molding -- basically just a 45 deg slat
of wood at the baseboard, or ceiling, or where two walls meet vertically.
Aesthetically, cosmetically, these 45 deg ditties could actually be a plus,
if done right.
And, it would make the runs easier to do.
That still leaves the A/C, tho -- unless someone figgers out how to do a hot
water/chilled water system economically.
If I went through the trouble to run hot water (which doesn't seem like all
that much trouble, compared to ducting,esp. considering the results), I'd
proly go the whole way, and avoid A/C ducting, via mini-splits.
Another idea, if going the ducting route, is to install both high AND low
registers, that are switchable, for heat, A/C.
TOH or hgtv showed this pneumatic ditty, where full zoning is achieved via
pneumatic air bags in each register -- which can also be retrofitted, btw.
I posted a link to the company that did this a while ago, don't have it
offhand. Very inneresting, tho, to see them snake bitty plastic pneumatic
lines thru the ductwork, registers..
Imo, however, ducting is inherently "sloppy", energy-wise, unless one goes
through phenomenal effort to make sure everything is air-tight, insulated,
On Sat, 19 Dec 2009 10:33:02 -0500, Existential Angst wrote:
interesting idea... in fact I've seen a lot of houses back in the UK where
they just run the pipes on the walls and don't cover them at all. Looks a
bit messy, though.
Last place I had in England had 10mm microbore for the radiator pipework
(which is what, 3/8"-ish) and that worked just fine - but I've not
investigated in the US yet to see if I can get fittings to do
something like that here. That'd mean trim for the rooms would only stand
about 1/2" from the wall, which could easily work (subject to something
interesting having to happen at the corners)
Yeah, thankfully that's not a problem I've got up here in MN; even in
mid-summer heat, just opening the windows and/or using a fan gets enough
airflow, so I don't need to worry about fitting AC.
That's a really neat idea. I was (idly, not seriously considering doing
it) wondering a while ago how I could motorise registers, but that
approach is far more sensible...
Yeah, seems that way to me. I'm not sure why the US still uses so much of
it, except maybe just industry inertia. Maybe it'll change and we'll see
more and more hot water systems around in the next few years...
Yes I bet it is messy but only that poor efficiency and is OK if don't get
to cold in the area where they use that system, but? I guess it is lot
Now if that is embedded into floor that would be different story.
Heh, exposed plumbing is a bit of a retro-rage in some high-end bathrooms,
NYC/Greewich Village/SoHo type stuff..
Chromed, of course.
So 1/2 copper (do they make a 3/8 copper?? I think they do -- I've got
oddball smallish fitting) would do just fine, then.
And think Wire-Mold for office-type surface wiring -- in that office
Not really my style, but perhaps something analogous could be done with the
whole baseboard system, a very slight tasteful "boxing out". Or, a bottom
Well, check out
about 2/3 down, "parallel blade zone damper"
and http://www.cinemabuilder.com/products/HVAC/hvac.asp .
Grainger's has motorized dampers, but larger area, larger price.
I'm looking into one of the above for a drafty kitchen vent.
Proly cuz it half-assedly kills two birds with one stone -- heat and A/C.
I'm hoping someone figgers out a nifty residential hot water/chilled water
system, altho that would proly be only for new construction. The condensate
handling would be a bear for retrofitting. But mebbe someone can figger
that out as well.
Yeah, they are - but I bought a couple of runs of 6" duct from HD
once (the rest I needed came from my local Restore place) and of the whole
pile there I got the only good two that weren't badly damaged (and even
then one of those was a real pain in the butt to snap together)
I think I prefer rectangular duct - it's a lot easier to work with,
particularly if doing anything custom, and takes up less space (because
for a given cross-sectional area a round duct takes up more useful
On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 08:57:27 -0800 (PST), jamesgangnc
Mini splits are expensive to install but the ability to zone the
cooling may make your payback period pretty short.
If you only run the rooms you use. I have a central system but we only
run the mini in the bedroom when we go to bed.
That way my wife can have the 70 she likes to sleep without cooling
the whole house.
I also have a mini in a new addition we only cool when people are
sleeping over. It is open to the screen cage most of the time.
Depending on the length of the cooling season.
But indeed, the zoning is Da Bomb.
I don't know how much heat pumps save over oil or gas, but whatever savings
there are would help as well during the heating season..
They are also easier on the wiring than a central air compressor, and would
lower demand charges, if such exist for residences.
What brand/type did you install? Did you measure the power consumption?
I was going to do two 12K btu units, but the mitsubishi/fujitsu price came
in at $5K for the pair, and it turned out that installation in these two
particular locations was not quite the slam-dunk I thought it would be.
So I passed on it for this year, will look at cheaper units, maybe that
Amcoraire unit. I'm wary of internet stuff, tho.
> If you only run the rooms you use. I have a central system but we only > run the mini in the bedroom when we go to bed.
On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 13:08:52 -0500, "Existential Angst"
One is an LG the other a no name clone of the LG (labeled Allstyle).
They look pretty much the same to me.
They are both 1 ton and seem to draw about 10-12a @ 120v. The thing I
like is they will run on a garden variety 120v circuit so if your
panel is getting filled up you only need one slot and that could be a
piggyback breaker, so really zero new slots.
We are pretty much A/C only here so I didn't buy the heat pump option.
One I bought installed. I put in the other, no big deal but I have
done some HVAC before. The bedroom machine is on the christmas light
circuit, since they both ended up in the same place and are usually
non-coincidental loads.. If I really see the need I can run another
circuit out there pretty easily.,
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