In my three bedroom trailer, I've got a floor model
humidifier. I have to feed it at least two gal of
water d ay, to keep the indoor air comfortable.
Maybe even more than that.
From my old fire science days, I remember that water
vaporizes, and increases 1800 times volume.
That means I'm putting 3600 gal a day of vapor into
my trailer. Some condenses on the inside of windows,
but not two gal per day worth. I wonder where the
rest of that vapor goes? I don't have any windows
cranked open, and I'm not holding the door open all
Makes me wonder what I can do, to reduce the air and
On Wednesday, January 22, 2014 9:11:55 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I would think a lot of it is lost via air leakage. Cold, dry outside
air makes it's way inside, replacing warm moist air. Where does
combustion air for furnace, WH, etc come from? New furnaces typically
use a vent pipe going outside, while old furnaces use the building
air around the furnace. If it's condensing
on the windows, the humidity is too high. The indoor humidity should
be adjusted down as the outside temps drop. My furnace humidifier has
an outside temp sensor to do that automatically.
Think about all the air vents you have. Our triple-wide mfg. home, built
1981, has quite a few vents. Kitchen hood vent, two bathroom vents,
cloths dryer vent. All the sinks have vents that suck air from behind
the wall when the water is drained.
Then there are all the openings when plumbing is through the floor. I am
sure there are others. Just look and think.
Thank you, that gave me a bunch of ideas. I do have a clothes dryer hole
in the floor, wonder if it's still there. The vent over the range, has
cardboard stapled over it. Though, it could use some sheet plastic in
addition, I'm sure. Plumbing poke throughs, I'd not even thought of
that. There is still a "stack" flue pipe for the old furnace, I've got
that blocked since I put in a 90 percenter. And the 90 percenter draws
combustion air from under the trailer.
Plenty to think on.
On Wed, 22 Jan 2014 11:56:44 -0500, Stormin Mormon
Either one, if lit, will solve your humidity problems and your frozen
pipe worries - guaranteed!!
What you want is a smoke generator - then stand out side and watch
where the smoke comes out. Coloured smoke would be more visible - red
On Wed, 22 Jan 2014 09:11:55 -0500, Stormin Mormon
It's your drafty redneck bungalow - the vapour and the heat both
escape the same way. The cold extremely dry air that blows in through
the cracks pushes the warm moist air out the other side.
You gotta get a couple of those "quebec garages" I mentioned the other
day to seal the trailer into.
On 1/22/2014 4:09 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
That may be the least of your problems.
I'm most comfortable with a dewpoint around 45F inside.
If it's colder than 45F outside, that means that somewhere
inside your walls, it's 45F. And a bunch of that 2 gallons
a day is condensing there.
I'd worry a lot about mold.
Perhaps run an exhaust fan so that the leakage is coming in.
Water won't condense out of air that's warming up.
Get one of those infrared thermometers.
I'll bet you'll see a lot of leakage without adding gases to your environme
The fact that you are adding moisture constantly proves you have a huge amo
unt of infiltration (outside air coming in through gaps).
You'd be better off finding and sealing them, then you can add much less wa
ter, maybe none.
When we lived in Germany, our house was so tight that with just normal wate
r from breathing, cooking, and the occasional shower, the house would fill
with mold if we didn't open windows twice a day. There is plenty of intern
al humidity generation if you don't lose it all to a leaky house.
I tried walking around with IR thermometer, and check
various points. I probably don't have the technique
right. What I found was that the outside skin of the
trailer was all the same temp, and I couldn't find
much variation indoors. Some power companies offer
infrared thermographs, but I've not gone that far
to call em out.
On Thursday, January 23, 2014 7:37:08 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
amount of infiltration (outside air coming in through gaps).
s water, maybe none.
water from breathing, cooking, and the occasional shower, the house would f
ill with mold if we didn't open windows twice a day. There is plenty of in
ternal humidity generation if you don't lose it all to a leaky house.
In the old days you would get a roll of 35mm infrared film and shoot some p
ics of the outside of your house on a cold day. I suppose there are infrar
ed digital cameras these days.
I didn't know that about the film. Neat idea.
Yes, IR cameras exist, but serious expensive.
I've heard some fire departments have them for
finding hot spots in walls, and victims in
situations. I doubt they would loan it to me.
On Thu, 23 Jan 2014 18:24:48 -0500, Stormin Mormon
A home inspector without an IR camera cannot tell you if there is
moisture problems in a wall, settled or missing insulation, and a
host of other problems that you are paying him to find - that YOU
cannot find with the naked eye. And he cannot either.
Call it judgemental if you want - a home inspector without an IR
camera can NOT do the job you are hiring him for, and calling himself
a "home inspector" is stretching the truth.
Definition of fraud.
I rest my case.
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