I have a room with one spot light at the ceiling that is not very bright.
Using a bright bulb just light up a spot in the room brighter.
I bought a floor lamp for the room. Is there a way to make the lamp turn on
when the ceiling spot light is on?
In other words, flip one switch and turn on both the hardwired ceiling light
and a floor lamp.
I can think of an expensive solution using home control system Insteon by
installing an insteon light switch and a lamp module. The light switch not
only functions as a light switch but can be linked to the lamp module that I
can plug in the floor lamp. This cost $100.
Is there a cheaper way?
On Monday, September 9, 2013 9:05:54 PM UTC-5, bob wrote:
Using a bright bulb just light up a spot in the room brighter. I bought a
floor lamp for the room. Is there a way to make the lamp turn on when the c
eiling spot light is on? In other words, flip one switch and turn on both t
he hardwired ceiling light and a floor lamp. I can think of an expensive so
lution using home control system Insteon by installing an insteon light swi
tch and a lamp module. The light switch not only functions as a light switc
h but can be linked to the lamp module that I can plug in the floor lamp. T
his cost $100. Is there a cheaper way?
Run a wire from the light switch to a regular wall outlet near the floor an
d plug the lamp into the outlet. This isn't rocket science.
Put one of these between the over head lamp and the bulb:
Run zipcord extensions to the floor lamp. Probably can't do that in
commercial applications, but for home use, no one will complain.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
On 9/9/2013 10:05 PM, bob wrote:
There's a simple two switch solution: for the floor lamp, add a
wireless remote control wall mounted switch alongside the existing
light switch. The floor lamp plugs into the receiver, which plugs into
the nearest outlet. Then, when you want both lights on, just flip both
The wireless floor switch adhesive-backed, so it mounts on the wall
without cutting or drilling. The wireless remote operation means
fishing wires through walls.
Example: Westek RFK100LC Wall Mounted Switch and Plug-in Receiver
Amazon has it for about thirteen bucks.
Where are you going to put the floor lamp? Near the light switch or on
the opposite side of the room?
If on the same wall as/near the light switch, I'd just knock the switch
box out of the wall, replace it with a deep double gang box, add another
switch, and drop a cable down from there to a new receptacle. (assuming
of course that the switch is not a switch leg. If it is you'd have to
repull from the ceiling box to the switch with a cable with an extra
conductor in it.) If there's already a receptacle there, it might
already be fed from the switch box in which case you have two choices -
one, just rewire it so that it's switched, or two, pull a new cable
between the two with an extra conductor and split the receptacle (might
need to replace the boxes for box fill reasons.)
If it's on the other side of the room, then the hardwired way may not be
practical unless you have access to the tops of the walls from the attic
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
While looking at the device you linked to, I saw this in the "frequently
bought together" section:
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
The switch & receptacle device that you linked to says it works for
incandescent and fluorescent lights but the "acts like a 3-way switch"
device in my link only mentions incandescents. Do you think that's a
misprint or is there a valid reason it won't work with fluorescents?
In my case, I have a few 4 ft shop lights plugged into ceiling outlets in
my basement which are controlled by a single switch in the kitchen. I'd
love to add 3 way functionality (i.e. a switch in the basement) without
having to do any rewiring.
What do you think?
I know that there is a problem with some controls which use a solid
state device to switch loads instead of a relay which doesn't care
what's connected to it as long as the current rating isn't exceeded.
Florescent lights (using ballasts) are an inductive load as opposed to a
resistive load like incandescent lamps. That could be what determines
the suitability of a remote switch for the type of light it will handle.
There could also be a problem with CFL's depending on the type of load
switching method. Perhaps an Email to the manufacturer could get an
answer from their technical support people? ^_^
On Tuesday, September 10, 2013 7:47:04 PM UTC-4, The Daring Dufas wrote:
If it just says that it works with incandescents, I would not expect
it to work with other than resistive loads. It might, but he needs to
check with the manufacturer. As you say, there are issues with other
types of loads and driving them with electronic devices. You would not
think they would limit their market unnecessarily by saying incandescent
if there were not an issue.
On 9/11/2013 7:41 AM, email@example.com wrote:
There have even been problems with electronic switching and some dimmers
when it comes to LED lighting so everyone should do as I do,
(ask questions). When I hear "I don't know", I'll start asking more
questions or go looking for the information myself. I can remember
making lots of phone calls or perusing publications at the library. Now
I can sit here on my butt, which is good because it hurts to walk these
days. I love The Internet and wish more folks knew how to use it well.
The only problem I can see is that if everyone knew everything I
wouldn't get to learn anything new by reading Usenet. ^_^
On Wednesday, September 11, 2013 11:57:32 AM UTC-4, The Daring Dufas wrote:
Yes, with LEDs the typical dimmer is usually not compatible.
The LEDs use switching type power supplies. The issue there
is that traditional Triac type dimmers turn on part into the rising
edge of the AC waveform and that interferes with the way the
switching power supplies work. They are expecting a slowly
continuously rising AC waveform. There are dimmers rated for
use with them.
I called HeathCo this morning. The answer I received was that the ballast
in the fluorescents cause issues with the electronics in the 6133 (3 way
switch device) but not in the 6136 (switch-receptacle device).
When I asked about the X-10 trick of adding an incandescent bulb to the
circuit with the fluorescents, he said that it might absorb some of the
induction caused by the ballast but since they can't guarantee it will
work, they can't recommend it.
Obviously I'm free to try it if I so choose.
On Wednesday, September 11, 2013 11:00:15 AM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
The X10 trick of adding an incandescent, AFAIK, is for the X10
devices that don't use a neutral. They need some current flow
to power themselves and when hooked up to a CFL they don't get
that. Different from what you're talking about.
I think we may be talking about 2 different things. The issue I was having
with a fluorescent fixture was as follows:
I have an X10 motion detector that controls an X10 appliance module which
is plugged into a standard, grounded receptacle. (The X10 model numbers
escape me right now, but I could get them if needed.) The fluorescent shop
light is plugged into the appliance module.
What would happen is that the motion detector would trigger the appliance
module to turn on, which in turn powered the shop light but the appliance
module would almost immediately turn off, plunging me back into darkness.
Someone in this ng suggested adding a incandescent bulb along with the shop
light, so I added a cheap Christmas candle with one of those little screw
in bulbs and the problem went away. The shop light and candle turn on and
stay on until the motion sensor sends the off signal.
Is that situation related to the "no-neutral” issue that you mentioned?
Each of the bedrooms in my house originally had a switched outlet and no
ceiling fixture. I added a ceiling fixture, controlled by the switch, and
hard wired the outlet to be always hot. 30 years with no regrets.
I wonder if replacing the "spot light" ceiling fixture with something that
spreads the light better would solve the OP's issue.
Correctly done, the installation will have split the duplex outlets so
one is switched and the other live if so. There haven't been hundreds
of cases but it certainly wouldn't be the first time when I've
discovered a room was that way and the homeowners were completely
unaware of it being so...
I'm presuming a spot fixture probably isn't in a central location, but
OP hasn't blessed us with any excess of data on which to do more than
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