How is metal siding installed?

[stryped]

As I posted elsewhere, I am thinking of at least installing it on my inside ceiling. Typically I think each piece overlaps the other whne going side by side by one rib. Is that correct? Length wise is it supposed to overlap and does it look right if it does? I have a 30 feet long ceiling. Obviously 30 foot pieces would be ideal, but transporting it and installing it might be a problem.

Also I am finding out my truses are not "exactly" 48 inches. Some 49, etc.

What would be the best way to go here?

[jamesgangnc]

Siding installed on a ceiling with 48 inches between the joists wil sag badly.

[jamesgangnc]

The best way to go is to frame out the rest of your ceiling with 2x4's and put wall board on it. Particularly if this is the same garage that you want to heat/cool.

[Jim Elbrecht]

I would also be concerned about years of dust, a few bird nests and a squirrel or two making the sheets heavy enough to pull through the screws and come down on my head.

Metal makes a good roof-- and maybe even fair siding. But i think using it for interior walls and ceilings is a bad idea.

Jim

[stryped]

I was told by the metal supplier they do it all the time and it does not sag. The truss manufacturer says drywall is too heavy.

[Doug Miller]

Stryped, have you ever heard of Google?

[jamesgangnc]

You have trusses that are not capable of supporting drywall and are being used for a roof? Sounds like your overall plan was a bad one. You built something that is not really suitable to what you want the final product to be. Imho, siding installed as a ceiling is going to look like crap. And is about the least insulating thing you could do if you're still trying to heat and cool this garage. How about suspension ceiling. You can hang it just a few inches below your trusses and you'll get a little insulating factor out of the tiles.

[cavedweller]

Surely, you jest. Give stryped a hint like that and he'll be back asking if he should believe what he might find.........

[dpb]

stryped wrote: ...

It's done by going perpendicular across the trusses or adding purlins same way as a wall; your choice. The rigidity in metal is lengthwise across the corrugation or ridge; lengthwise it has no resistance to bending much at all and would be quite limber and difficult to install w/o support.

I'd suggest go to a manufacturer's web site pick a product and get their recommendations on installation for the application envisioned (or start w/ the applications and get recommendation on product(s) _and_ installation actually makes more sense).

[stryped]

I would be going perpendicular to the trusses. I actually have small furring strips between the russes every two feet or so to hold the insulation in, but not sure if they are spaced right to use as additional nailers without it fallin gon a rib or something.

[benick]

Surely, you jest. Give stryped a hint like that and he'll be back asking if he should believe what he might find.........

Really...He keeps starting a new thread on the same thing , each time adding or making something up to debunk any suggestions offered...He must figure if he asks it enough he will get the answer he wants eventually...LOL...I'm done with him...LOL...Beyond help and in WAY over his head...

[mkirsch1]

OMFG. Tell me you did not just say that...

The concern is the DRYWALL, not the trusses.

When they drywalled the addition on my parents' house back in 1991, the ceiling sagged between the trusses, and they were on 16" centers!!!

Can you imagine hanging a drywall ceiling from trusses on 48" centers? The ceiling would look like an inverted ski mogul hill after about 24 hours.

[mkirsch1]

Give it up. He's going to open a new thread for each nail he pounds.

[Doug Miller]

And after 72 hours, the drywall would all be on the floor, after the fasteners tore out the edges...

[dpb]

While agreed 4' OC is certainly not enough support for drywall, it's quite possible the lower chord of an engineered truss that is perfectly adequate for the roof load is not designed for the bearing weight of drywall.

...

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[dpb]

Again, I'd ask the manufacturer of the product in question -- it wouldn't be adequate for exterior use from wind uplift, water-sealing, etc., etc., but for simply hanging an interior ceiling panel could probably work ok since you can then fasten across the panel at the truss. It would ring like a drum, of course, over that 4-ft span but it would likely be adequate mechanically. This again, of course, would be specific to any particular product selection; undoubtedly one could find some that wouldn't have sufficient support in thinner gauges and less pronounced rib structures.

I repeat myself, but the folks to answer your question are the manufacturers of the _particular_ product for the given application...

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[jamesgangnc]

Seems improbable though.

[dpb]

Why? If the truss company wasn't given the requirement of drywall ceiling it would be fairly likely ime in these days of design for minimal material/weight and where the truss companies have these standard designs which are optimized and factory-built. The larger the span and spacing, the higher the probability as the vertical load on the lower truss/unit length goes up by the square of the spacings.

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[jamesgangnc]

Who would have a standard design that didn't allow for wallboard on the ceiling? That doesn't sound like a "standard" that would get called for much. I realize that trusses can take a load from above that is different from a hanging load. But I'm just thinking that any design would be able to handle the minimal load of wallboard. Of course this is on 48" centers so that increases the load a bit. You could probably add some vertical 2x4's to transfer the hanging load to the top at strategic locations and make it work even if they can't handle it.

Still, all in all sounds like a poorly thought out project based on all the subsequent things the op has asked about doing to it.

[Doug Miller]

In article , jamesgangnc wrote: [...]

Just consider the source...