I have a 4000 Watt Generator with 120/240 v. for misc. use, very noisy,
am looking at the Honda eu2000 Generator, seems to have good reports and I
guess they are really quiet , wondering if someone that has had real world
experience with this unit could give some impute on the subject, would unit
support a modern furnace, fridg, and freezer, not necessary at the same time
, looks like a dandy gen. but if they are useless, I will forget about it.
The Honda electronics have a bad rep. If the inverter blows out of warranty,
the replacement parts are prohibitively expensive.
The Yamaha units have a better reputation for durability, and pricing of
The engines in both models are beyond reproach. It's just the electronics
that are cause for concern.
The Honda web site offers cables that combine two of their generators
together. The not very good diagrams seem to me to be just AC plugs
that are likely paralleled to the output plug. Does someone who has one
of these please let me know if this is true? Does the control electronics
figure out that it has been hooked up to an already energized AC circuit
and automagically synchronizes itself to it?
I have a situation where I have a smallish 24 hour load, and a larger
load during work hours. Off hours security is a issue, so I can leave
one small genny well secured overnight, and bring in the rest each day,
and take them away at the end of the day.
I only have one EU, so have no direct experience with the paralleling
feature, but the cable connects the two inverter's control circuits so that they
operate in sync. Any attempt to simply parallel two AC sources without somehow
syncing them together will yield smoke.
Sound like a good plan, except that the EU2000 is only good for about 10
hours on a tank of gas with a light load.
Not so. No "control circuits" are involved. The Honda-supplied
paralleling cable uses shrouded banana plugs for safety reasons only.
You can make your own. See:
If you want to spend an outrageous amount of money, you can buy this:
The "special" jacks for paralleling are indeed simply connected to the AC
receptacles, hot and neutral. I have not paralleled these units but
supposedly they synchronize themselves. I imagine it would be better to
have the second unit already plugged in at startup. Any comments on that
Recently someone made the statement that the eu2000 would be less effecient
for the final stages of charging batteries. Since the little Honda varies
it's engine speed and fuel consumption depending upon the load I think the
effeciency probably remains fairly constant throughout the entire load range
but actually may be MORE effecient at lower engine speeds. I have run one
for over 13 hours on a tank of gas when using it to charge batteries only
(initially 40 amps chargine 220 Ah of batteries).
As for OP's question I have run a 24 cu/ft refrigerator/freezer with an
eu2000 while it was also charging batteries. Unless a freezer has an
unusually large startup draw I think it would work just fine but probably
not at the same time as the fridge. I would guess it could run a small
furnace fan such as on a mobile/manufactured home but any large furnace fan
might be questionable especially if it has a resistive type starter. I
think those generally run from 240 VAC anyway.
After reading lhiggin's description of how to parallel these Hondas,
I wonder if we could easily plug one into a wall socket with a
variac to control the backwards grid meter speed :-)
How do they synchronize to each other and share the load? If they can
cogenerate without a grid-tie inverter, we might run the exhaust into
the top of a $200 gas water heater to preheat water for the usual
I don't own one, but it seems safe enough, with a variac hooked up as
an autotransformer and 2 light bulbs in series. If it syncs, the bulbs
should be dark. Viewed in a fixed font:
| | C wall
| Honda | C socket
| | C
Moving the variac slider s downwards should make the bulbs light again.
Then short out one bulb, then the other, put a Kill-a-Watt meter into
the Honda socket, and run the exhaust into the 1/2" gas pipe of a $200
upside-down water heater, after removing the thermostat innards.
Ah, so you DON'T have any evidence for your article of faith. Just more
smoke out your rear end, as usual. Ever tried thinking when posting? :-)
Small Hondas have small exhaust ports. A 1/2" pipe would probably work.
If it doesn't, removing the muffler and running the exhaust into the 3"
top of a gas water heater should not be a problem. That would make more
efficient counterflow heat exchange.
What's your cogen experience? I did my first system in Doylestown, PA
15 years ago. PECO took a year to approve my permit. It's still running.
Just got a fax inviting Pine Associates, Ltd. to submit a proposal for
a system for the city of Norwalk, CN. They estimate $800K, for 400 Honda
EU2000s and gas water heaters? :-)
Running 1/2" pipe is to small, there is increased resistance with
increased length of exuast, figure 4-7 elbows to pipe it through that
will increase resistance, back pressure and increased head temps come
into play. Increase back pressure and lower hp. The honda is already
choked down so much you can hardly hear it run, lower hp on a 2000w
unit, its already under powered for most users. Just hook up a pipe you
say, what about water collecting at the low point and choking the motor
off, or water dripping back into the cilinder, not good, you can ruin
your motor. There will be water as the vertical rise cools. Just a few
things to consider and why 1/2" won`t work.
The pipe would go to the top of the water heater, then back down through the
3" vent. Water would condense in the downward path and leave via a pinhole,
but it wouldn't condense on the way up, because of the higher temperature.
I looked at an EU200i today. The exhaust port ID is about 0.7" into the
muffler, which attaches with a standard looking flange with two metric
bolts. The pipe out of the muffler is about half that diameter.
It burns 1.08 gallons of gasoline with a fuel value of 123.1K Btu in 4 hours
at the 1600 W rated load, so it makes 6.4 kWh (21.8K Btu) of electricity and
101.3K Btu of heat (another 29.7 kWh), ie 36.1 kWh total, if it replaces
electric resistance heating. So cogen makes economic sense at a gasoline
price of $2/gallon if electricity costs more than 100x$2/36.1 = 5.5 cents/kWh,
in simple terms.
The ground isn't bonded to the neutral, with 60 volts from each pin to
neutral, so a grounded plug into a wall socket would damage the inverter,
so it needs to float or use an external isolation transformer.
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