The recovery mode on your thermostat should be keeping it from using
the resistive heat when it brings the temp backup. There might be
some programmable parameters on it you need to change so it knows how
long to try before it lets the aux heat kick in. You could also start
the ramp up "manually" with several small programmed increases during
the early morning. You might have to start pretty far in advance.
Also thermostats differ in how programmable and flexible they are.
look at a Honeywell VisonPro TH8320 installation manual as an example.
IMO, SRN's posts accurately describe what's going on. As he pointed
while a heat pump's efficiency drops as the outdoor temp declines,
at 25 deg, a decent one is still producing over 2X the heat you'd get
heat. So, the advice to go to 100% aux heat makes no sense to me,
you want an even higher bill.
While I agree with you in theory but at 25 deg F, not in practice.
In theory, the heat pump will cost less to operate, but in practice at
25 F the heat pump cannot keep the house warm and it runs full time.
So you have to take the wear and tear cost into account. How much
does it cost to replace a compressor? Also if it is icing up and the
defrost cycle has to run every 1/2 hour, it just doesn't make sense to
run the machine any longer.
I guess when it gets cold here and the furnace is running most of the
time, I should shut it off because I'll wear it out. If you amortize
heat pump cost over it's entire life and factor that in to the cost of
operating it, I'm sure you'll come out ahead
compared to using electric resistance heat, even when it's 25F. At
that temp, you're still getting 2X the heat for every $1 of
How many hours of that do you think it takes before you've paid for
the heat pump?
If it's in an environment where it's defrosting that frequently, then
I agree that's an issue.
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