What I mean is that it might "harden" in, say, 15 seconds, such that it's almost
immovable - which is really what matters. Not how long it takes to get to full
As a (longer time) analogy, concrete will set in, oh, I don't know,
about a half hour where it's no longer workable - yet it would take much
longer to cure to full hardness (which is about a month I think).
So, to me, the time of importance is how long the glue allows movement.
I assume it will give us the 30 seconds we need to position everything.
If we get those 30 seconds, then we're fine. I've just never used the
stuff - and - I don't see that "setting time" number anywhere.
On Tuesday, June 18, 2013 6:22:55 PM UTC-4, Danny D. wrote:
That's because the coupling you have is a regular coupling,
not a REPAIR coupling. The one you have has those stops for
convenience when working with pipe where you have room. The
repair coupling has no stops so you can use it for a "repair",
per the above procedure.
Given that, you need a repair coupling.
the repair pipe is extended by the remaining amount
You can't make up 3" of missing pipe with couplings.
Yeah, it will fit. I'm not going to do the math, but how
much pipe do you then have inside the coupling? Answer:
very little, not enough to make a sound PVC connection.
On Wed, 19 Jun 2013 11:01:53 -0700, email@example.com wrote:
My mistake. I had not even realized that a "repair coupling" even existed.
All I knew was a coupling, and all mine have a center ridge (because
they're *not* repair couplings).
So, thanks for letting me know. The math is much easier with a repair
coupling. All you do is subtract 1/4" from the length of the opening
(as you had said twice). I'm sorry for not getting it until today.
Googling for "Lowes repair coupling", it's funny what came up:
Heh heh... Not *that* thing again! :)
Apparently they're *both* called a "repair coupling"!
Anyway, googling some more, I find this nice diagram showing what
you were kindly explaining in words for me:
Thanks for the ideas!
No, I didn't draw it; but it shows pretty much what Trader was
trying to explain to me in words.
The part that I couldn't understand was how the coupling could
slide over the pipe completely; but I didn't know about the lack
of the center ridge.
Good luck with any of that. The glue bond (not totally set) is enough
to freeze the piece you slide into position. You can't reslide it
anywhere. On top of that a standard union cannot be slid "all the way
Perhaps there is a "repair union" that does not have that center ridge
preventing sliding it but even then the glue bond prevendts any
"sliding" more than inserting the first section on more than the
normal length. That glue bond even prevents removing a misfitted
joint after more than a few seconds.
Your 'prime glue all fitting then insert won't work. Time you fit one
the fitting on the other end has 'glue set" too stick to insert.
On Wed, 19 Jun 2013 08:14:57 -0700, Harry K wrote:
Now I understand *why* trader said to cut the original pipe to
5-3/4 inches for a 6" opening.
If the coupling did *not* have a center ridge, then the math
does work out because you *can* slide the couplings all the
way onto the 5-3/4" pipe!
Now I at least understand what trader was suggesting!
Unfortunately, all the couplings I bought have a center ridge,
so you *can't* slide the coupling all the way onto the pipe.
But, if I remove 3" from that 5-3/4" pipe, the math *does*
work. With 1-1/2" of coupling added to the center 2-3/4" pipe,
that center pipe becomes the 5-3/4" trader theorized.
The only problem is that it will take practice and skill to
glue everything, and then slide the two couplings onto the
2-3/4" pipe and then position it in the opening and slide
the two couplings over to the old pipe.
I suspect I have about 10 seconds, and maybe even about
half that in warm conditions such as now, so, as Harry wrote,
I'll need to practice ahead of time (or eat my mistakes).
On Wednesday, June 19, 2013 11:40:20 AM UTC-4, Danny D. wrote:
That is the difference. A repair coupling does not have
the stops inside. It will slide all the way on.
No, the problem with that is there is so much pipe
missing that little if any pipe will be inside the
coupling. If you take any coupling, the pipe is
designed to go about half way in from each side.
With the above method, it won't be in anywhere near
You don't have much time, that's true. Also, you can forget
about the suggestion of dry fitting. With PVC unless there
is glue, it's nearly impossible to assemble the parts, that is
to get the pipe anywhere close to how far into the socket it
needs to go.
On Wed, 19 Jun 2013 11:07:24 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
This is true. I've gotten them 'stuck' on a few times dry, and even
then, they only go about half way.
It's amazing that they slide fully on once the primer and glue
PVC is an amazing glue system!
On Wednesday, June 19, 2013 4:06:50 PM UTC-4, Danny D. wrote:
You would think someone would make some oversize PVC
fittings of the common type so that you could use them
for dry fitting purposes. If I was doing this work
enough where they are really needed, I'd figure out
how to ream out some regular ones.
The vast majority of the time, you don't need
to fit stuff up that close. But the few times you do,
being able to dry fit easily would be a big plus.
Another tip. If you do partially dry fit stuff up
and need to keep the assembly angle the same, you can
put a piece of black tape across the joint. Then
before taking it apart to glue up, cut the tape with
a razor at the joint. Then you glue it up and use
the tape to get the angle back to where it was.
On Wed, 19 Jun 2013 08:14:57 -0700, Harry K wrote:
Thank you Harry for explaining that because I couldn't figure out what
Trader was suggesting (math wise) until you mentioned that a coupler
might exist that doesn't have a center ridge.
All mine have a very definite center ridge, which prevents any pipe
from going into it past that ridge.
I guess I could file out the center ridge - but it seems easier to
just compensate for that center ridge by subtracting roughly two
times 1-1/2" from the repair pipe initial length.
Traders kindly suggested solution seems ingenious.
The only problem is *technique* (as that "glue" sets awfully fast)!
PS: They should make all glues this fantastic!
(yes, I know it's a 'weld').
On Mon, 17 Jun 2013 05:12:18 -0700, email@example.com wrote:
I agree. I did not buy a *compression fitting* (it was my mistake to use
that word). I bought a schedule 80 *union* (they don't seem to make them
in schedule 40 where I live) - and a funky slider slider coupling.
Googling, I find it's actually called an *expansion coupling"
It's only rated at 200 psi though:
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
Difficult to imagine that that's the general case with compression
fittings. Aren't they generally used for waste pipe? i.e. no or very
low static pressure?
Personally I've only used them for plumbing a swimming pool filtration
system that included a heater. Obviously, outdoor installation, entire
system under pressure and subject to the elements. Once properly
aligned and snugged down leakage was never a problem.
Why? End of season you want to drain everything down, pull the pump for
winterization. Compression fittings like these made that a snap.
I used one ot them (real name is "Dressler Coupling") to connect/
disconnect my irrigation puimp feeding out of a stram. Eventually it
'cold formed' the PVC pipe into a 'depression' where the gasket fit.
Took yeas to do it though. I don't think
I would ever use one on PVC pipe in a buried application. I do have a
couple of the galvanized ones in service, one over 20 oyears, with no
I used to see some on pipe for pivot irrigation systems. It's
been a long time ago though. Water supply pipe for pivots is usually
8" in the central U.S. There is some 10" but it's pretty uncommon
There really is no need for them since there is usually an elbow or
something one can remove to get pipe apart.
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