My electric dryer just blows against the cellar wall, so it's all
recycled energy except what sticks to the wall, which isn't a large
proportion. In fact I don't understand blowing it outside at all.
Of course I don't perfume the laundry. You can stink up an entire
neighborhood with dryer sheets so I can't imagine what it would be
like if confined indoors.
One apartment I lived in had almost no insulation on the exterior walls.
The heating system was OK, but just couldn't keep up in winter, fighting
against all the cold that bled through the walls. We bought a lint filter
for the electric dryer for about $10. Basically, it's a bucket of water.
There is a cover on the bucket of water with several holes in it. One HUGE
hole is where you attatch the end of the dryer hose. Air from the dryer
hits the water in the bucket, where lint is trapped. Then the warm air with
lint removed exits the smaller holes in the side of the bucket cap. It will
raise the temperature of a ~1000 square foot apartment 2 - 4 degrees F,
while the dryer is running. It will also raise the humidity level to about
60% or so. It's not very effective, and overall not a good idea. At BEST,
the effect it has wears off in an hour or two after the clothes are dry.
You'd have to do about 70 loads of laundry a week in a small apartment to
notice any effect on your heating bill. :) -Dave
We have a condenser dryer, where there is no outside vent...the water
all goes into a reservoir, which we empty after each use. So the heat
does stay in the room, which is our laundry room/pantry. No problems
for us, not even damp on the walls.
First this is not for gas dryers.
Second, be ready for increased dust in your home.
Personally I believe it is a bad idea. Have you even seen the stuff in
a vent pipe, even with a filter on it.
Be sure to vent to the home in general. Venting to the same room will
drive up the humidity in that room making the dryer less efficient.
I have done this for installation where there was no place to run the vent
outside.. I purchased a special ventless dryer lint trap from an appliance
Just putting a filter or screen on the end didn't work because it filled up
too fast and was clumsy to clean.. The commercial unit had a easy way to
clean the trap.. The moist air and heat stayed in the laundry room and the
windows would steam up.. The drying time was about 10% longer..
Home Depot sells a hot air diverter that allows you to route the hot
air in or outside. It sells for ~$10 Canadian and is easy to install.
It works very well with my electric dryer. I place a piece of old
nylon stocking over the exhaust screen to filter fine lint. As the
winters in my area tend to be cold and dry, the additional heat and
humidity is welcome and I no longer need to run my furnace humidifier.
I typically minimize the amount of detergent and fabric softener used,
so the exhaust air smells clean but not overpowering.
I would recommended you thoroughly clean the dryer vent hose at least
1-2 times per year. If you decide to use a home made nylon filter like
i do, remove and clean the nylon with a lint brush between loads and
ensure you do not overdry your laundry. Also monitor your house
humidity and route the exhaust air outside if the house becomes too
humid to prevent moisture damage. I tend to space out my laundry
throughout the week, completing 2-3 loads at a time, to ensure a
steady output of humidity.
Hope this helps,
Edmonton Alberta Canada
My (electric) dryer was in my kitchen and in winter I never opened the
window to let it vent. The filter was very fine-meshed and there was no
dust or lint on any surfaces. The washing was always run through a
separate spinner, so it wasn't all that wet. The extra humidity wasn't
really a problem; only the window ever showed any condensation and that
disappeared in a few minutes after the dryer finished.
in article firstname.lastname@example.org, Arri London at email@example.com wrote
on 1/6/04 7:05 PM:
In climates where the winter is cold and dry (like MN & WI) having the extra
humidity and heat inside is a boon, but you want to be able to switch it
back to venting outside in summer, 'cause then the heat and humidity are a
drag. Also want to monitor the humidity-get a humidistat. They're pretty
cheap. You don't want the humidity to get over 50% if you can help it.
That can do damage to your house, as well as encouraging dust mites and
I've seen indoor dryer vent attachments in Home Trends (a catalog). I think
they have a website.
That wasn't really a problem in London. Outside humidity can easily be
50 percent or more on a regular basis. As for dust mites and moulds,
keeping the house clean really does minimise those problems.
LOL not to mention my flat was in a 260+-year old church. Any wood was
buried within metre-thick walls of stone and later concrete. The floors
were also concrete about 2 foot thick. Mould was never an issue.
LOL With great difficulty. Having been bombed during WW2 helped a lot.
During reconstruction, it was easier in the parts of the church that
were damaged, but the walls were put back to their original thickenss.
Lot of problems.
Lint, and lots of it.
Uncontrolled humidity release
If you have a gas dryer, CO release into the home.
And its against all codes now. There IS a reason for that.
As someone else suggested, if you are that worried about saving a buck, get
a heat recovery unit for your central air system, and have it installed.
Ya, I did . . . first I used one of those plastic box things that you flip a
lever and air is vented either outside or through a wire screen fliter.
Then I just disconnected the exhaust hose and used a rubber band to hold a
large pillowcase over the end, and ya, that worked better.
Usually in winter, indoor humidity levels get pretty low, so I don't think
there will be much problem with extra drying time. I didn't have any
problem. All ya gotta do is turn the pillowcase inside out once a month
and run it through the washer, and you'll be golden . . .
Storm windows can greatly alleviate humidity loss.
I make mine on a frame of 5/8 inch unfinished bolding stock,
mitred, glued, and stapled at the corners. Then 3 mil acetate sheet is
stretched over the frame and stapled down. Finally, foam weather stripping
is attached around the frame's perimeter, to make a tight seal against the
Always listen to experts. They will explain what
can't be done and why. Then do it. - Robert Heinlein
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