For the life of me, I cannot figure out what I am doing wrong while hanging
the door. The bottom of the door hits the striker side first with about an
1" gap at the top. The hinge side is plumb. The walls appear to be plumb
and flat. The door slab itself is not warped.
I've never installed a door before, so any advice would be appreciated.
Where's the gap - between the jamb and the edge of the door or the
jamb and the face of the door?
In other words, when you say that the bottom of the door hits the
striker side first, do you mean the bottom of the door is fully closed
inside the jamb but the top is still open, or do you mean the entire
door is full closed but there a gap between the door edge at the top
and the jamb?
If the top of the door is still open, then the door itself is leaning
forward or the jamb is leaning backward. The hinge side should be
checked for plumb in both directions, side to side and front to back.
If the door is closed and there's a gap between the door edge and the
jamb, then the jamb is not square.
BTW a 1" gap is huge. I'd like to think I'd be able to visually tell
if a door jamb was 1" out of square.
If by the "bottom of the door hits the striker side fist with about an
1" gap at the top" you actually mean that the bottom of the door hits
the "doorstop" and the top is 1" away from the top of the doorstop then
the jam (and probably also the wall) on the striker side is NOT plumb.
There is a problem with the wall.
Unfortunately, I left out an important piece of info. The door opening is
near a corner. The hinge side is on the corner. I put a straightedge
horizontally on the wall, and the corner side is high, causing a gap of
about 3/4". To describe it best, it looks like the wall is concave. The
corner bead is built up a bit which also appears to be a problem. I need to
redo the corner first before moving ahead.
This is what I think happened: I installed the hinge side first. I made
sure the hinge side was plumb, and the casing was laying flat on the hinge
side. When I tried to "pull in" the doorstop side, it caused some frame
twist because the doorstop side is not on the same plane as the hinge side.
This put the top of the door about 1" away from the doorstop.
At any rate, I removed the door and will start over tonight. As I
mentioned, I've never put in a door before. It's been a great learning
experience, and I really appreciate all your advice.
The first 2 or 3 are hard. After that you can do them in your sleep. As
you have discovered, the RO has to be square, and the sides parallel.
You have to use the level not just in the opening, but on the face of
the finish wall. A 4' level makes a pretty good strait edge to gently
slide up and down the wall on both sides of doorway opening, to make
sure you have flat surfaces for the casing to land on.
Hey, we've all been there. Go slow, and don't drive the nails or screws
home until the door swings right, and all the cracks look right.
re: "The first 2 or 3 are hard. After that you can do them in your
I'm about to order my first entry door. I've hung interior doors, one
slider, and a bunch of windows.
I was going to pay one of the 'door stores' to supply and install my
front door and rationalize it based on the tax credit and the
However, when my window supplier (the local Norandex outlet) quoted me
30% off list, which puts it at basically half of what the "material
and installation" quotes came in at, I decided to do it myself.
In fact, his list price was less than the "materials only" quote I got
from one of the 'door stores', so at 30% off, it's a deal I just can't
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.