All Internet sites advise us not to use a sawing motion with the hand
file. However, if you view the bevel as a hill, some sites say that
you should drawfile diagonally up bevel (uphill) and other sites
advise to draw your file down bevel (downhill). Very confusing. The
sites advise that 10 strokes are all that are needed. I've used 100s
of strokes and have the shiniest bevel in town but the edge is as dull
as when I started. Please impart some words of wisdom -- Thank You, M
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On Jun 16, 11:17 am, email@example.com (Mary) wrote:
Shears / scissors cut based on the flatness / squareness of the two
flat contacting surfaces with the "sharpness" of the bevel being a
somewhat secondary issue.
At this point (though I cannot see your shears) the blades may be
temporarily "ruined" & may need the contacting surfaces flat
To do this, it is best to disassemble the shears such that each blade
can be worked individually. You'll need a very flat surface (a metal
plate ideally) & various grit sand paper.
Work the contacting surface against least coarse sandpaper that will
clean up the flatness (that is grit side up) on your metal plate, when
the entire surface is smooth & flat, you're done........just bevel the
blade slightly from the non-contacting surface to the contact
surface Do NOT bevel from the contacting surface side! you want
this edge to remain untouched by the file
Repeat with the other blade. Re-assemble & these babies should shear
If you do not have a flat surface to work with, this work can be done
carefully with a file on the contacting faces.
But remember, the shears cut due to the flatness & squareness of the
contact of the two working surfaces.
I have periodically used this technique on my loppers & my garden hand
shears over the years.....the loppers being nearly 30 years old. An
occasional "re-grind" brings them back to new performance.
Clean & lube the shears after every use to prevent rust (rust kills
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