Working on my 40 year old Huskey Bolens garden tractor I found a few
broken bolts in the front end and mounting the engine, they were all
grade 5 bolts, no idea if they had even been out before.
I drilled and removed the studs without too much problem, the one in a
big cast steel piece took a few minutes with a MAPP torch.
So should I replace them with grade 8, hoping they wont break again? Or
do I still use grade 5 so I am able to drill them again if they do break?
I just routinely use 8 for almost everything, but certainly in an
application where a 5 didn't hold up, I'd use 8. I also like to use nuts
with nylon inserts. They never come loose, which leads to bolts shearing,
but buying those is grade 8 is too expensive, so I generally use a lower
Yes, the engine bolts often loosen up on this model, although they all
have the good old kind of lock nut that is punched on each side. It's
called a "tube frame" tractor and what happens is the tube starts to
collapse and get oval looking making all the bolts loose.
I do have a fix for that, in a newer model I stripped for parts I found
they put a steel plate inside the tube frame on each side of the bolts.
Yesterday I bought some outrageously priced steel from Lows to do the
same thing on this model. The tube frame will not crush again!
No,not quite. http://www.lok-mor.com/mar-loc.html
Now you have me curios what the name of the ones I like is? There is a
mark, normally on two opposite sides where it was stamped or punched.
It doesn't look like it would hold well but they really do. Maybe a
regular nut on the anvil and smacked slightly out of round with a hammer?
I just remembered one time I needed a lock nut of any kind, no room for
two nuts. I took my vise grips and distorted the threads on the bolt.
It worked but not that great. It bought me time until I could return
with something better.
No, still not what I have. Stover nuts are slightly rounded at one end
making them "one way" nuts. But while learning that, I scrolled down
and found this:
Two Way Lock Nuts
Also Called: Centerlock Lock Nuts, Bi-Way Lock Nuts, Reversible Lock Nuts
Two Way LockSide indentations in Two Way Lock Nuts slightly distort
their center threads to create a locking action when the distorted
threads engage the threads of the mating part. An inexpensive,
prevailing torque type of hex lock nut, assembly costs are reduced
because the top and bottom of the nut are the same.
I found that with pictures here:
Drill out the wornhole in the tube frame and push a peice of tubing
through with the ID the size of the bolt. Weld or braze it into the
tube, and it will never crush again - and the bolts will stay tight.
Aircraft bolts are commonly used by boy racers. They are sort of like
Grade 8, but will tolerate some stretching under stress, so I have
been told. Available on line at several aircraft supply houses.
Probably something like the torque-to-yield rod and head bolts we find
in automotive these days. Scary when you first use them, pull in steps
to 80 lb-ft and then a quarter turn (!). Not reusable as aircraft
It depends on the application. Grade 8 bolts are hardened and
therefor more brittle. While they are good for linear applications
like head bolts, they suck for use in shear applications. I subbed a
grade 8 bolt for a 5 as a alternator mounting bolt, where the
alternator was hanging off the bolt, which was screwed into the engine
block. It snapped off in a few days. Went back to grade 5 (less
brittle) and had no further problem. I'd check with Husky Bolens to
make sure. Are you the original owner? A previous owner may have
subbed 5s for 8s in the past and that's why you're having problems now.
Whatever, I've discovered they're not usually interchangeable.
I'm not the original owner, but being the second owner of a 40+ year old
garden tractor isn't bad. Husky Bolens has changed owners a time or two
and does not support the *good* ones made in the 60's and 70's. There
is however a large group of collectors but I thought I'd get a quicker
answer here. I'm still not sure which bolts I will use.
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