Grab Bars in a Shower Stall

I've been asked to help install grab bars in an (E) tiled shower stall. What is the best way to do this? Ordinarily I'd drill a hole through the tile and whatever is behind it -mortar, greenwall, or backer board and install the grab bar with toggle bolts.

I got to wondering though that if I drill a hole large enough for a toggle bolt to go through, I might be weakening the wall enough that holding onto the grab bar might pull some tiles loose, leading to additional work.

Additionally, the house is an older one, having been built in late 50's or 60's so it's likely there is a mortar bed - it looks to be the original tile. If the mortar crumbles around the hole, the toggle bolt will be pulling on the tile, maybe.

Reply to
Charles Bishop
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Considering the construction, I'd try to avoid toggle bolts. Can you find a stud? Long screws in the stud is perfect.

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

+1 When I remodeled our bath, I looked to the future and installed a grab bar in the tub as the jetted tub I installed was deeper than the norm. Placed it so that one end is into a stud and since I didn't like the angle formed when attaching the other end to a stud, I inlet a couple of studs to accept a 1x6 that was firmly screwed into said studs and gave me all the mounting options I needed for the grab bar.

Since you're not, apparently, retiling, etc. I concur with Ed's suggestion that you seek a stud and, all things considered, if you can only anchor to one stud, make sure you use a stud on the upper end of that bar. That's going to take the most stress. The lower one less so.

Reply to
Unquestionably Confused

Is the wall constructed in such a fashion as to allow you to locate the studs? For example, is there drywall or plaster above the tile? If so, do not use toggle bolts, drill small holes through the tile and use stainless or some other protected screws to attach directly to the studs.

Reply to
Stormin' Norman

I agree. I would look above the top of the tile wall to try to locate studs.

Also, check out the many videos that are available at

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. I went there and I did a search for "grab bars for shower" and I found plenty of excellent videos.

One that I thought was interesting (although I don't know if I would use that product) was:

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Reply to
TomR

That was an interesting video but I agree with you Tom. I don't know that I would use that product or not even though the guy did hang from it once installed. He used a small block of wood mounted behind drywall to anchor his screws. What's to keep that drywall from giving away even though it does have that small block of wood behind it?

Reply to
itsjoannotjoann

Agreed, go right into the studs, it is the safest and best approach.

Reply to
Stormin' Norman

I have a couple of those suction cup grab bars. You need large tiles for them. Mentioned here a couple of months ago and others thought they would not be sturdy but I have not seen a problem with them. I would not put full weight on them but there are a lot of things I would not put full weight on. My first shower was not done right as it was on plain wall board and a cup might have pulled a tile off. Some builders are chincy and do this.

Reply to
Frank

Unfortunately, if we old folks lose our balance, we instinctively reach out for the grab bars. When we need them most is when we are possibly exerting a great deal of force. I am over 6'7" and still weigh 262lbs, that represents a lot of energy being transferred, in a short period of time, to the grab bars.

I have stainless bars in my large, walk-in, unenclosed shower and have really needed them three times. I was quite grateful they were firmly attached. One time my wife said she felt the wall of the house shudder when I slipped.

Reply to
Stormin' Norman

Yes, it didn't seem like a great idea to me. I have used a similar concept when patching drywall (piece of wood behind a small drywall hole, held in place with string until the patch is done).

But, for a strength item like a grab bar, it seems like it would be a large enough piece behind the tile wall to make it worth using. And, if I were going to that concept, and I really wanted a strong support "stud" behind the hollow wall in a location where none existed, I would create one on my own -- by opening up the wall above the top of the tile, dropping down a longer and larger 2x4 piece (turned sideways), and screw the grab bar into that at the right locations. Then, patch the wall above the top of the tile.

Reply to
TomR

Oops, I meant to write, "...it seems like it would *NOT* be a large enough piece...".

Reply to
TomR

Here is another video using a Moen grab bar that does not require you to fasten to a stud.

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Reply to
Arnie Goetchius

Hi Charles,

Ideally, you should screw the grab bar directly to the studs, or to blocking installed behind the wall. Of course, there is rarely blocking available unless someone planned ahead. Also, even if you find a stud for one end, the other end probably won't line up with the next stud.

I recently installed a grab bar at my mother-in-law's house. I located one end over a stud and drove screws directly into the stud.

The other end landed between studs, so I used the anchor system designed by the manufacturer for this situation:

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I'm not sure how the dedicated anchor compares to a standard toggle bolt. It cost more and required a much larger hole (1-1/4" if I remember correctly), but it did provide a very secure mount for the grab bar.

In my case, I was drilling into drywall, so it wasn't a big problem. Drilling a 1-1/4" hole in tile could take a bit more work, but it's doable.

If you have access to the other side of the wall, one other option might be to cut a hole and install blocking from the back side. Then patch the hole on the back side when you're done. That's probably more trouble than it's worth, but it would be secure if you're concerned about the strength of the existing tile wall.

Anthony Watson

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Reply to
HerHusband

Do NOT use toggle bolts on a tiled shower. Find the studs and screw/lag them directly to the studs. Anything else is not only asking, but BEGGING for trouble.

Reply to
clare

and if they do go to the top, what about the wall behind? Locate the studs on the back of the wall and drill through the stud with a small drill - and out through the tile to locate the first stud, then just go 16" over for the next ione. Patch the 1/8" hole on the backside of the wall.

Reply to
clare

How to video for this product shown here:

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Reply to
Arnie Goetchius

Per Charles Bishop:

I don't like the toggle bolts.

With toggle bolts, it will probably feel nice and solid - until somebody falls, grabs it, and puts most of their weight on it..... and then things could get ugly.... and with your name on it.

Go for a stud.

Reply to
(PeteCresswell)

Sure, a well secured bar is best, but something is better than nothing. Most of the time you can avoid the need to put full weight by simply holding the bar while entering or exiting the shower. I use the bar as a device for balance, not keeping from hitting the ground. Pound in a

16d nail about a third of the way and bend it over and it will prevent some falls just by holding the nail to steady yourself.

For a couple of years in my old fiberglass showers we used the suction cop bars and they were a big help.

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

Didn't we just go through this a few months ago?

"Most of the time you can avoid the need to put full weight..."

Sure, when you are intentionally trying to avoid putting full weight on it.

The problem comes when you reflexively need to put full weight on it and your eyes/brain expect the bar to be secure. You don't even consider another option because the bar is there. The bar with the suction cups.

No thanks. I'd rather do without.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Yes, we did; I was wondering how long before you'd disagree. IMO, going without any aid is dumb if you can have something that will prevent a fall or slip. Have you ever used a suction cup bar? They are pretty damned strong and reliable. I also think I'm a decade or two older than you and can better appreciate an aid to prevent a slip so that full pressure is never needed.

As stated, even a bent nail can prevent a fall as it will steady you. Put a foot of rope hanging from it to make it easier to hold if you want to get fancy.

Perfect? No, but far better than noting.

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It grips, but we still have a few gripes. First, that disconnect between claim and instructions: If you're not supposed to use the handle for stability, what's the point? Also, installation can be a bit of a chore for people with limited hand strength. Under our steadily increasing load, the BB&B versions with larger cups held 196 pounds on average; the Get A Grip Web-site version held 136 on average.

For someone who needs a little assistance in the shower or tub, either version of Get A Grip should work fine. But don't rely on it for support in a fall.

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

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