Figure that this is the right place to go for some good advice on this.
Have a pair of Headphones where the plastic headband that fits over the
head and connects the two ear pices has broken.
Bose wants a fortune to repair or replace them.
I believe that I can "glue" them together, as the break is very clean
and well defined.
Not sure what to use, though.
Should it be a fast-setting true epoxy ?
Or, a fast-setting Crazy Glue (Eastman 910 Cyanoacrylate) type of product ?
Which would be best, please ? Or,...?
On 11/14/2010 4:24 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
If looks are irrelevant, a splint or two of springy metal, like from a
wide fish tape, or maybe from one of those hanging file folders, and
then wrap the whole thing as tight as you can with nylon-filament
strapping tape. No strong repair is gonna look pretty, so you may as
well go with cheap and painless. And then look for a dead pair on ebay
or craigslist, to strip for the correct parts. I'm surprised that a
'name' brand like Bose didn't put a spring steel core in the part to
begin with. Plastic sucks for applications that flex constantly like that.
No glue is going to wok well with the stress that will be put on the joint.
It may hold enough to get over your head, but most likely will break on the
What type of plastic? If it is a polyethylene composition, no glue holds on
it. If it is styrene, you have a shot welding them either by solvent or
I don't believe any gluing option will repair it for long. Glue would work
on something that doesn't get much stress, but in your case I would use a
short length of stiff wire, like that found in a paperclip and then lay it
over the joint one end, sliding a piece of adhesive filled heat shrink
tubing (AFHST) over the left broken part and then insert the right side
piece into the shrink tubing and wire and heat. Even plain shrink tubing
will likely hold the wire in place, but adhesive filled heat shrink tubing
will add significant strength to the new joint, especially if you can manage
to double it up and "rebar" it. The adhesive keeps the rebar from working
its way through the tubing after a certain number of flexions.
Glue, I fear, just won't work, without reinforcing that break substantially
to make it serviceable again. I would run shrink from ear to ear, if I
could, to make it look more like a rubberized headband and less like a break
repair. It will probably even stay on your head better than the old one
because it's a less slippery surface.
Without the "rebar" wire, not glue will hold. I say all this having grown
up in a house of 'repaired by glue' things. (-: My dad was the head of the
materials science division, (miss you Dad!) for the USN research lab in
Annapolis and brought home loads of opened but salvageable test samples
(these were the old days, before that all became illegal - ahem). We had
epoxy-repaired everything all over the house as far back as I can remember.
And if there was no reinforcement, there was no permanency.
Bose wants a fortune to buy them in the first place. I've owned them and
have come to like both my cheaper Sennheiser and Sony headsets better.
That section of a headphone headband gets incredible stress placed upon it.
If the original broke, so will an unreinforced repair no matter how you glue
it, it will always be the weakest point. Unless you're willing to build up
a enough glue on the band to make you look like you've had an eagle crap on
your head, it just won't work.
The adhesive shrink tube and "rebar" method would make my father proud.
I've repaired a lot of poorly designed plastic items using it. Sometimes I
use two layers of tubing to really reinforce the joint. I learned about
AFHST here on Usenet. Clearly on the top ten of useful things I've learned
on the net, almost as good as discovering there were dual circuit breakers
that allowed you to put two 20A lines in what was before a "one only" 20A
panel slot and using a hose to cool down an attic job in midsummer. But
that's another thread entirely.
I've used the rebar method on plastic parts too. I take a circuit board
drill bit and drill one or two cavities on either side of the broken
plastic and coat the rebar, small stiff wire roughened with sandpaper,
with glue and put the thing back together. Heat shrink gives added
strength. Before making such a repair, I do a quick cost analysis in
my head. Am I doing this out of necessity or out of stubbornness? The
other consideration is, am I doing it for fun? 8-)
Home Depot sells a really nice one by Ryobi. Designed for workmen in
No electronics for quieting the sound, just excellent sound
And, you can plug in an audio source, eg mp3 player, radio, ...
And, facing forward are two wee microphones. With an off-on-volume
knob that acrivates it. What purpose? So when the foreman comes
up and wants to tell you something, you just turn them on. Pretty cool!
Price: $69. CHEAP! Super deal!
When flying, it shuts out engine noise BETTER THAN THE BOSE!
How do I know. I asked a guy if I could try his (and he could
In Manhattan, I can wear the things on the subway just fine.
Likewise on a busy street -- no problem.
EVEN at the lexington ave 14th st station (union square),
when the train pulls in, coming around a tight turn, those
steel wheels SCREECHING against the steel rails -- unbelievably
loud -- I can still hear nicely, IF I use my hands to press
them in against my head a bit.
(I wear glasses -- the ear-things let in a slight bit of
Best deal going!
Find out what plastic it is, and use the appropriate adhesive. ABS
and PVC can be repaired very well with solvent (lacquer thinner, clear
PVC glue, carburetor/throttle body cleaner), and polycarbonate can
often be (you get one chance, but if it fails the surfaces turn to
some white material). If solvent has no effect, then the plastic is
probably high density polyethylene, polypropylene, or nylon, which
can't be fixed with any glue but instead has to be welded back
together (wood burning iron with Teflon tip is best, but soldering
iron works, too), using a scrap of the same kind of plastic. Nylon
and polypropylene weld together very well. If your first solvent weld
with polycarbonate doesn't work, then heat welding will.
Super glue/crazy glue will give only a weak repair. Worse, it will
stick just enough to the surfaces to prevent solvent from working.
Epoxy won't work at all, and JB Weld is epoxy.
Smitty's suggestion of fiberglass cloth and epoxy is the only sure-
fire repair that will work on any plastic.
You should tell Bose that the lack of repair parts is ridiculous for a
high-end brand like theirs and makes them inferior to Harbor Freight
in this respect (switch worked loose on an $8 HF heat gun, HF said
they'd send me a new switch, and a week later I received a whole new
I had the same failure on an AO set of hearing protection muffs.
Contacted American Optical and they don't service the wire reinforced
head band, only the ear cups. I opted to dump them. Some of the
suggestions proposed here show great imagination.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.