And look at all the expense and trouble he wants to do, when all he
really needs to do is apply a coat of brown enamel paint to the concrete
so it matches the color of wood.
Better yet, paint it gray so it looks like concrete!!!!
Or paint it green like a nice mowed lawn!
I nail down my t&g hardwood with a hardwood floor nailer.
Easier to remove than glued down - and I have NO squeaks. (I put about
100 lbs of screws in the plywood subfloor and made sure the
crossbracing on the joists was 100% solid)
Do it once - do it right. After the hardwood is down and squeaking
it's too late to put in the screws.. Mine had the additional "feature"
of the floor joistd not meeting on the steel beam, but overlapping at
the beam under where the living room and dining room meet. - a heavy
weight in the middle of the dining room caused the cantileveered end
to go up in the livingroom, and vise versa. Screwing the plywood
subfloor solidly to both sets of joists helped solve that problem too
- along with screwing the joists firmly together where the met and
overlapped. Actually it wasn't 100 lbs - I got an extra zero in
there by accident..
| Are there any other reasons to not glue down C&L?
It needs to float because of expansion. The whole
floor expands and contracts as a unit. (And it needs
space around the edges for that, under the baseboard.)
There shouldn't be a problem if you put the right pad
T&G needs to be nailed. Each board expands separately.
You put down rosin paper rather than a foma pad. The
biggest difference is that CL is veneer on plywood.
It lasts only as long as the finish, making it a disposable
floor. T&G, whether pre-finished or not, is solid wood.
When the finish wears off you can have it sanded and
refinished. It's more work and more money, and you'd
need to rent a nailer, but you get a better floor.
If done right, neither should squeak. But you do have
to make sure the subfloor is solid and stable.
You can buy engineered hardwood in click or T&G, and some engineered
has a pretty good top ply which CAN be sanded at least once (with
T&G engineered hardwood is NOT solid hardwood. It's not the format
that determines the construction - just as you can buy engineered
hardwood OR composite(laminate) flooring in click-lock - and in
thicknesses from less than 4mm About 3/16") to 15mm or more.(about
5/8") The slick laminate in my basement is 15mm. The hardwood in my
living/dining room is 5/8" elm, and the upstairs bedrooms 3/8" oak.
| You can buy engineered hardwood in click or T&G, and some engineered
| has a pretty good top ply which CAN be sanded at least once (with
Why bother? And how about if we call it was it is?
It's plywood veneer flooring. "Engineered hardwood"
is somewhere between farfetched marketing and
downright lying. There's no reason to use such a scam
term just because the flooring companies use it.
I misunderstood Jud's first post. I thought he was
comparing CL plywood flooring to prefinished solid
wood flooring. It turns out that he seems to be comparing
CL plywood to glued plywood, but mistakenly thinks
the glued type gets glued to the floor. I think part of
the problem here is that he doesn't know the different
products and is just trying to be a smart shopper before
he calls contractors.
I'm amazed by how many people
think they can know better than the contractor by
doing a little reading and asking questions online. It
makes me sympathetic toward the doctors who complain
about patients coming in and saying, "I need you to
prescribe XYZ for me, Doc."
Glue down or glue together? It may be good enough to put glue at the
joint and still have a floating floor with a pad under it. Tongue and
groove works well like that but i have no experience with C lock
Thank you for everyone who replied.
I went back to the store and held a piece of T&G and a piece of CL. I
had thought that these were basically the same except for how they
connect. But the CL is really thin, light-weight, cheap stuff. Now I
am sure that CL is NOT what I want!
The common clic engineered hardwood is 11mm.. The common T&G
engineered harswood is 12 or 12.5 MM - some suppliers MAY be as heavy
as 13mm . That's half an inch compared to 7/16 click.
A lot of laminate clic is only 6mm or less - I've never seen an
engineered hardwod anywhere neer that thin.
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