My wife put 2 cartons of milk on the same shelf and that proved to be
too much weight for it and both back corners snapped off in almost
identical pieces. I've never had success gluing two pieces of plastic
together to support weight but I'd like to try something different and
see if it works. I'm going to take my Dremel and drill about 6 holes
in each side of the pieces to be joined. Then I'm going to insert
pieces of a paper clip into each hole to act as reinforcement for the
glue to adhere to much in the same way rebar works in cement. Has
anyone had any success with this? I'm thinking if nothing else it will
increase the surface area of the connection. Any hints on making it
work better? I'm going to use Gorilla Glue to join the pieces because
it will expand into the holes
Different product (soap dish) I cemented paper clips under and across the
broken pieces. I used Phenoseal ( great adhesive caulking) to put all the
parts together. It's been a few years without failure.
I had a plastic clamp for a clip-on fan break,and I used epoxy and popsicle
sticks to reinforce it;you have to let the epoxy cure for a week or two
before putting it under stress,to get it's full strength.
The clamp has a very strong spring,and it's held up for about two years
now. I used RAKA boat building epoxy and fumed silica thickener. I tried J-
B Weld before that,but it didn't hold up very long.It seems to be a softer
epoxy. System Three or West System epoxy would do just as well as the RAKA.
The popsicle sticks are stiff and give more strength than a paper clip
will,and epoxy bonds to it better.
Polyurethane glues are crap.(Gorilla Glue)They also foam up,expand and make
a mess.For wood,I guess they are OK.
That's weird, I was doing some reading last night and it was
recommended to stay away from epoxy for plastic and then someone said
polyurethane worked great on plastic. Confusing. I guess all plastics
are different and some work best with poly and others with epoxy. I've
had great success with Gorilla Glue. I think the people who don't
aren't clamping the piece for 24 hrs. I've had the same experience
you've had with JB Weld. Funny, I used it a decade ago to fix a crack
in my radiator that sealed it shut now I have a problem getting it to
join anything that is stressed, I wonder if they changed the formula.
I'll try the Raka stuff you mentioned, any clue on where I can locally?
Clamp plastic and you squeeze out the glue.
Poly works best with wood because it's designed to cure in the presence of
moisture already present in the wood.
sealing and -joining- are two different tasks.
You need more bond strength for joining.Lots more for stressed parts.
AFAIK,RAKA is only available online,West System and System Three are at
least equal and usually available locally(boat,woodworking shops),but
System Three online has an EXCELLENT trial kit for $10(last I
checked,awhile ago) postpaid,it also has generous samples of various
fillers,the great Epoxy Book,a wonderful guide to using epoxies(a MUST
read,IMO.),spreaders,mixing cups and sticks,and a big piece of fiberglass
cloth.It will have enough epoxy for your application.
**And I don't have any financial association with them.**
I have used their trial kit and loved it.I still have the trial
kit box,book,and some of the fillers.I also get glass cloth from a hobby
shop,you can get very light weight cloths(top finishing) or
You can also use strands from the glass cloth in your repair.
the plastic I dealt with was similar to Bakelite.
your fridge shelf is going to get a lot of weight put on it,and it WILL
need reinforcement.I would use the popsicle sticks,a bit of that glass
cloth on both top and bottom,build it up thick(on the bottom side),and cure
it for 2 weeks before putting it into the fridge.The Epoxy Book will really
help you in this repair,and you can DL it for free from the System Three
website even if you go with West System.
The secret is usng Just enough. The popsicle sticks are a neat trick. When I
can, I use string or cording. Iie the ends of the string together when wet. (It
will be stromger when dryas it shrinks.) Make a tight knot. Wrap the string
around item that needs to be clamped(for gluing). Then take a
stick/pencil/dowel, loop string around such then start twisting the stick/pencil
dowel until tight. Then tape stick, etc. solid or secure pencil/stick on itself
or wedge it so it remains tight. It works wonders and is cheaper than clamps.>I had a plastic clamp for a clip-on fan break,and I used epoxy and popsicle
I used Sugru to fix my refrigerator door.
Sugru is the world’s first mouldable glue that turns into rubber glue
It all started with an idea and a small team of product designers and material
scientists here in London. Their dream is to make fixing, modifying and making
things easy and fun for anyone, and Sugru is our solution.
Their patented silicone technology is unique. Out of the pack, Sugru feels like
play-dough, and it's that easy to use too. It bonds to almost any other material
and cures just by exposing it to air. Its durable cured properties mean it'll
stay strong and securely bonded anywhere from the freezer to a steamy hot
shower, from the home to the great outdoors.
I do not sell the product or have any connection to the product - just that it
worked to fix a hole and molded an hook for my shelf which was in the inside of
You have no chance of succeeding without analysis of the species of plastic
and what will bond to it. Few plastics admit a glue bond anything close to
the strength of the original material (which, after all, itself failed), so
your quest is quite futile. The notion of pinning is misconceived.
Polyurethane glue such as the overhyped brand you mention has its
applications, but this isn't one of them, and you shouldn't be suckered by
the phony labeling into thinking it is.
Glues and stuff to pour into your car are sold as easy miracles to solve
hopeless problems. It's best to learn that not every claim on the retail
shelf is credible, despite your natural credulity. Save your child's wonder
for the toy store, and develop your aging cynicism for $10 bottles of
You need to test a few spots to see what will hold. I love to use crazy glue
(Cyanoacrylate Adhesives) but it only works on certain plastics and
basically solvent welds them together. In some cases it's stronger than the
CA doesn't solvent weld most plastics any more than it does on metal
or wood. It also isn't that good under continuous weight bearing duty
in either cold or hot temperatures, unless you get the really good
stuff (not the teensy tubes from a variety store), and even then it's
not so hot...
Best to do some tests. Even model airplane glue might just do the
trick depending on the plastic and careful application.
Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
The only thing CA (superglue) works on is human skin. It is worthless
for everything else as it is too damn brittle.
Try acetone. It temporarilly disolves the plastic into a goo. Brush some
on the edge of both pieces. Touch to gooey sides together, and when it "dries"
it'll be a single piece of plastic.
Yeah, but it does work well on skin! I recently discovered how
well when my 7 year old fell and made a nice gash on his nose
that I thought would need stitches. Off to the E.R. where they
stuck him back together with (medical grade) superglue. Within
about 10 days the would healed perfectly with no trace of a
scar. The Doc was right -- much better than stitches!
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
Depends on the plastic. Model airplane glue is little more than
polystyrene dissolved in acetone to give it some body. If your
shelving is polystyrene (good chance), either acetone or model airplane
glue will work more or less the same, and model airplane glue is
easier to work with - won't dribble all over the place. Just
get fresh stuff - semi-congealed stuff won't work...
However, not all plastics are polystyrene. Acetone won't do a thing
to polyethylene for example. Essentially nothing will. Some plastics
just don't "glue". The "slippery ones" generally don't, no matter what
Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
Shelving is probably not polystyrene. Even citrus oils dissolve
polystyrene. It would not do to have refrigerator shelves marred
because you put oranges in the fridge.
Polystyrene (unless it is foamed) tends to be on the brittle side
(in my experience). Those clear plastic (brittle) disposable
beverage cups are polystyrene.
I tried something similar with disappointing results. Your mileage
might be better. Replacement shelves are way too expensive, So I'd
just do without the shelf until the refrigerator gets trashed. I have
good woodworking skills, so I'd construct a slotted shelf from white
Assuming the shelf itself broke, I was fortunate enough to be able to use
those plastic coated wire shelf racks you cut to length (Borg item). Got it
to fit in the existing clips fairly easily.
The rest of the old plated wire racks then looked like crap. Replaced them
Have you tried duct tape? :-)
"It's only temporary, unless it works."
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