I'd be very careful about using 50Hz on any 60Hz device with a motor or transformer: at a lower frequency a higher current will flow through anything with a coil winding, and the resulting overheating could be dangerous. I blew up a 60Hz "wall wart" when I used it (with a transformer) in UK.
-=- Alan
On 10/07/03 11:35 pm John put fingers to keyboard and launched the following message into cyberspace:
I just bought a used Kawasaki GE2200, and have two questions:
1) It says 115V, and I thought that was a misuse, but it really is 115V! Their GE2900 is 120V. Why would they do that? I know it is within 5% so everything should be okay, but is there anything to worry about? 2) They say you can make it a bit quieter at the expense of a little power by changing it from 60cycle to 50cycle. They say that nothing will be adversely affected. (except clocks, I am guessing.) Is that correct that you can make it 50cycle without any adverse effect on motors and electronics? Thanks.
I actually tested it, and it is 120.2v. So why do they say 115v in the manual (and 120v for the sister GE2900?) I didn't dare test the frequency setting.
Some devices are sensitive to the 50/60 cycle thing. Many that are sensitive will also be sensitive to the less than perfect wave pattern most generators make anyway. I suggest not using any sensitive electronic on home generators.
Hi, Tested with nominal load? There are many different kind of meters. Most are average reading, some are RMS reading, rarely some are peak reading. Indirectly if frequency is not ao 60 Hz steady, that indicates overload condition or poor regulation. VERY seldom frequency goes higher. Tony
The voltage will go down when the load goes up. It can go down to the level that electric motors overheat and get damaged. See the issue of Consumer Reports that came out today. (Though no Kawasaki was evaluated.)
Don .
Before I bought it I tested it with a electric garden blower. On line it takes 18.3a to start, and 10.6a to run. On gen it takes 17.9a to start, and 11.1 to run.
I figure that 18a is pretty close to the max for the gen (2200w), so it fell a tad short. And it did better than line because the wiring was shorter. Well, that's my explanation, and I figured it proved the generator was pretty good. If anyone has an alternate explanation...
The voltage in many States used to be 115 or even 110 until recently when the whole country was supposed to go to a standard 120 volts. An older machine would have been designed for 115 volts whereas a newer one would conform to the new standard. It's called progress.
The engine RPM of your generator is in a constant catch up game with load. Increase load on the generator, mechanical load increases on the engine, RPM drops, throttle opens, engine picks up speed. Decrease load. the opposite takes place. Your generator is not putting out a constant 60 cycle AC. Listen to the sound of the engine as load changes. I wouldn't be surprised if there was a
10 % swing in speed as loads change. Your likely running between 55 and 65 cycles normally. Now you want to run at 50 cycles. Think about it."They" won't be there when your furnace motor or fridge go Bye Bye.
I'd like to be there when you tell "them" your PC only goes Beep Beep.
I usually end my post by saying something like Good Luck
In your case it's Good Insurance
Every device you "might" plug in would be a different case. Some devices, like some laptops for example, would be just fine but tread carefully here! Smoke could be in your future....take care, Ross
That voltage will drop as your load approaches the max rating (unless there is some type of regulation)...take care, Ross
I have about a 106vac at my house...that will teach me to buy a house in the mountains!.....
call the utility, the IEEE standard for voltage supplied by utilities is plus 10-6%....... execpt for short periods of time. Ask for a recording meter to be set at your service. Then contact the regulatory agency the utility will eventually have to raise the voltage to be with in the law.
Excellent advice. In most cases after the utility confirms the problem, the solution will be simply for them to change to a different tap on the distribution transformer, and in rare instances to change the transformer itself.
A point worth noting is that the IEEE standard carries no legal authority of its own, however the rules of the public utilities commission (or equivalent legal body in your state) will generally echo such guidelines in give them the strength of law.
Still, your first step should be to contact your utility. If results are not obtained (which in most cases they will be), call the state agency having the administrative responsibility for matters like this.
Harry C.
This is very good advice with one possible exception, which could be beyond your control, or access. While the tap change could address your low voltage situation, it's only a reasonable solution if the low voltage condition is relatively consistent. If your voltage is low for periods, then much higher during other periods, a tap change to correct for the low condition could result in overly high voltage when the system voltage returns to a higher level.
The advice to contact the regulatory agency governing your electric utility is also spot on. Public utilities can be pounded rather severely if enough unresolved complaints accrue.
Louis--
********************************************* Remove the two fish in address to respondIn a friends case, an adjustment at a pole mounted capacitor bank corrected his undervoltage concerns.
Steve
. While the tap change could address your low voltage
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