Out of all these ideas IMHO, only one person gave you the right answer.
You alluded to the correct answer yourself when you mentioned that you
never drained the gas from the prior year.
When gas is left in the carburetor (regardless of the brand of small or
large engine) for a long time, it begins to evaporate, leaving
"varnish" behind which plugs up all those little holes in the
carburetor that need to be open for the correct air/fuel mixture to get
to the engine for both starting and running. It is VERY likely that
your carburetor is nicely plugged up. You may get it working with carb
cleaner however it's more likely that you will need to remove the carb
and clean it thoroughly.
Changing the spark plug after five years wouldn't hurt anything, but
unless it appears worn it's probably not needed. These little engines
are pretty tough, but do yourself a favor and change the oil
frequently, change the plug every few years and ALWAYS drain the gas if
you're not going to use it fr the next few months. If you don't want to
drain the gas, you can use a product called "StaBil" that is designed
to stabilize the fuel. It's also not a bad idea to spray an oil fog
into the cylinder prior to putting it up for the winter. Of course, do
that only if you really want the engine to last for a very long time.
MRS. CLEAN wrote:
It is likely that you've got water in the bottom of the gas tank. The
same dew that you find on the lawn in the morning gets into the gas tank
and settles to the bottom of the tank (as it's heavier than gas).
As others have suggested, drain the tank thoroughly, and then put it out
in the sun to evaporate any water that remains.
Refill it to the top after each use, thus allowing less room for dew
to get into the tank.
MRS. CLEAN wrote:
In the automotive world to "turn over" is to rotate the crankshaft.
So, if it doesn't turn over in 100 pulls, you have a problem with the
recoil mechanism. Different brands have different styles of mechanism.
How about take it to a mower repair shop?
Christopher A. Young
You can\'t shout down a troll.
Mine starts ok (well, once I had to prime with that ether-or-whatever-its-called
spray-can stuff), but sometimes I'm halfway through a "rope pull" and
the machine suddenly tries to yank the rope back into the machine.
It yanks back HARD!
Is this the kind of "recoil" you mentioned?
Any idea what might be causing this PITA action?
yes, it is trying to "run" backwards, and the recoil/overrun
clutch/whatever you want to call it only works in the forward direction.
Probably due to ignition timing being a little advanced. Not sure how
that could have happened however as on most lawnmower engines timing is
fixed by the position of the magnets on the flywheel, and if the little
key shears (as it does when you hit a big freakin' rock) it will retard
the timing, not advance it.
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
On Wed, 22 Nov 2006 00:59:41 +0000 (UTC), email@example.com (David
It's remarkable how many people don't know that anymore. I read a
Yahooo auto list some times, and people misuse "turn over" and "crank"
to mean start.
Is it yanking back or just stopping you from pulling out the roope
further. If you're pulling hard, I think that could feel like it is
Do you hear any ignition? If not, you're engine is not running
forwards or backwards. I really doubt that your engine is running
On a recoil starter, like any small aengine with a rope has, ';recoil
" refers to the rope being recoiled, to the rope being pulled back in
after one has pulled it out all the way. Recoil is normal.
Some Briggs and Stratton engines have a slight ramp on the camshaft to hold
one of the valves slightly open and partially relieve the compression during
starting. Some have automatic flyweights on the camshaft for this purpose.
If the release malfunctions or the valve clearance is to great it will cause
this problem. I have a 8Hp that was nearly impossible to start because
someone decided to increase the valve clearance. These engines often show
little compression when pulling the starter cord if everything is right.
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