gas fireplace won't start-up - pilot is lit

On 1/28/2014 11:14 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:

I worked on a natural gas fireplace, last year. The HO kept insisting that I had to change the batteries. This made no sense to me. I finally found a plastic box under the FP which had four AA cell. Change the batteries, and it came back to life.
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replying to Tony Hwang , greg wrote:

no sealed glass front on this one. Its a normal box with a flu that I open/close.
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replying to John Galbreath Jr., greg wrote:

lights

FIRE

the

Paperclip test worked.
Put a meter between the two screws that were successful in the paperclip test and reading was 260.
Any advice is appreciated from here. I tried to just manually connect the two wires that were at the wall switch and that did not work.
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greg wrote:

Hi, 260 what? Volt DC, AC? Or Ohm reading?
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Tony Hwang wrote:

Probably millivolts , since the OP mentioned a thermopile . I have a customer down in Memphis that is having the same type of problem with a floor furnace , but intermittent . He has whole-house forced air too so he's not cold , but he leaves a crawl space door open a little so his cat can shelter there . He worries about his pipes ...
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replying to Tony Hwang , greg wrote:

millivolts. It was 220 this morning. Tested the TP terminals. From what I am gathering this means I need a new thermopile?
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On 1/29/2014 9:44 AM, greg wrote:

I would. Should be above 300 *at* the thermostat. Replacement is the cheapest, quick fix/test option. Hopefully the gas valve is not on its way out, either.
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replying to Steve F. , greg wrote:

Do you have a specific model or brand you recommend?
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replying to John Galbreath Jr., RodCarewPDX wrote: I had the same issue when getting my pilot lit after being off for the past Spring+Summer. John, thank you for the troubleshooting tip. It worked great and I was able to find a short at the switch, cut back the wire and re-attach a clean connections.
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I'm dealing with a similar problem. Bought the house this summer, and got t he pilot light lit when fall came. Flipped on the wall switch, took a minut e or two and then fired up. Try to turn the wall switch on other days, wait several minutes, nothing happens. Turn off the gas, relight the pilot ligh t, flip the wall switch on and again it fires up after a minute or two. The n I still have the same problem on other days where it won't fire. After re ading these posts, I had seen a little box under the fireplace so I pulled that out, it's a remote start which seems to work fine. Turns on turns off no problem. So I turned it on with the remote, flipped on the wall switch, turned off the remote and it stayed lit. Assuming there's a problem with th e wiring in the wall switch? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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My recent problem is pilot light is lit but when I turn on the switch to li ght up fireplace it doesn't light up. So, I used a paper clip to jump it at the connections and after a while it lit up. So I conect the wires back an d it is now working like it's supposed to. My question is, what is the prob lem, why didn't it turn on at first before jumping? Is it a possible bad wi re or gas valve. Remember I thought it was the wire..but when I reconnected everything back and turn the switch on it worked.
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Ok, I am totally confused. Pilot is lit and has been for 10months. I flip t he wall switch and nothing. I remove the wall switch and touch the wires an d still nothing. So I jump at gas valve connection with paper clip and fire place lights up. I remove clip fires goes off. I reconnect the wires back and flip the switch to fire place ans it lights up. Fire place still workin g off the switch so what caused it to not turn on at first, why did it turn when jumped? Anybody have a clue?
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The pilot light stays lit but no flame. I just replaced the thermopile and still have the same problem. I did as you suggested and jumped the TH & TH-TP with a paper clip, I did not get a flame, please advise, thanks
On Thursday, December 25, 2008 at 7:49:09 AM UTC-5, Tom Lachance wrote:

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It could a lose connection or bad wire. My fireplace was coming on intermit tently. So I went to look at the wiring and lifted one of the wires and it came right on. So I knew that the wire was either bad or it was lose connec tion. It turned out being a lose connect . Works great now. So anyway check your wiring fist make sure everything is connected and not lose. It can be as simple as that.
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On Thursday, November 2, 2017 at 7:47:34 AM UTC-4, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wro te:

ittently. So I went to look at the wiring and lifted one of the wires and i t came right on. So I knew that the wire was either bad or it was lose conn ection. It turned out being a lose connect . Works great now. So anyway che ck your wiring fist make sure everything is connected and not lose. It can be as simple as that.
HELP PLEASE!
I have a Heatmaster Vent-Free Gas Log set. It is operated manually (no wall /remote switch) I can get the Pilot to light and stay lighted but when I tu rn the valve to "ON" the burner does not light. I have cleaned the double burner and pilot area with compressed air. What can I do next?? Thanks fo r any suggestions.
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On Tuesday, November 21, 2017 at 10:50:21 AM UTC-5, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrot e:
rote:

rmittently. So I went to look at the wiring and lifted one of the wires and it came right on. So I knew that the wire was either bad or it was lose co nnection. It turned out being a lose connect . Works great now. So anyway c heck your wiring fist make sure everything is connected and not lose. It ca n be as simple as that.

ll/remote switch) I can get the Pilot to light and stay lighted but when I turn the valve to "ON" the burner does not light. I have cleaned the doubl e burner and pilot area with compressed air. What can I do next?? Thanks for any suggestions.
Most gas appliances that rely on a pilot light have a thermocouple that's in the pilot flame and connected to the gas valve. The thermocouple, when hot, generates a small electric current that the gas valve needs to open to supply gas to the burners.The reasons why are obvious. Probably a bad thermocouple, it's a common failure.
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replying to trader_4, FlyFishingUte wrote: Same issue - need help. The paper clip method did not work on my situation. The TP to TP/TH measurement off is 292, and on is 122. Took a brush to the thermopile to clean the soot off
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The pilot light flame must hit the thermocouple correctly, or the voltage t he thermocouple generates may not be enough to operate the main gas valve, while it is enough to keep the pilot light lit. Try adjusting the pilot li ght so that it more directly hits the thermocouple, check for clogged holes in the gas supply for the pilot as the previous poster found to be his pro blem.
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snipped-for-privacy@sbcglobal.net wrote:

Hi, Main valve is controlled by 24V control voltage, not by thermocouple. thermocouple's job is to keep the pilot on.
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replying to Tony Hwang , BobinDurham wrote:

Maybe a thermocouple's....but a thermopile generates the energy to open the gas valve. Once you turn the valve to pilot and ignite it, the pilot is on. If the pilot blows out for some reason, the thermopile senses the loss of heat and shuts the pilot valve down. Which is why if you turn the pilot on, push the knob in and ignite it....and you don't let the thermopile heat up enough? The pilot goes out.
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