Garbage Disposer Dishwasher Plug

Aug 22, 2003 3 Replies
C

Sorry for these really stupid questions.


  1. Can someone recommend what I should buy that would best plug the dishwasher drain connection on my new garbage disposer? The disposer vibrates a fair amount, so it's going to have to be a pretty secure plug. I figure I can maybe rig up something with a hose clamp and... ? Or is there something actually designed for this service that I can pick up at Home Depot and like stores? It's a 1/2 HP Badger 5 disposer.

I installed this new garbage disposer yesterday. I have an automatic dishwasher, so I punched out the disposer's dishwasher plug in preparation for attaching the dishwasher drain line, per the installation directions. But in fact, I rarely use the dishwasher. I think I'd rather re-plug the disposer's dishwasher drain connection.


  1. Since a disposer was not previously installed, I had to re-do much of the drain piping, using the guidance from the disposer installation manual. At the connection to the wall, the last piece of piping that can be removed is short and has no threads. It may have been held on by some kind of glue, but I needed to reorient it a bit (it's not straight, by design, and veers off

15 degrees or so). It came loose easily with just a little help from a pipe wrench. I re-oriented it and slid it into place. It seems to be draining fine. Is there a glue for this piece? It attaches to the wall pipe which seems to be neither metal nor plastic but concret-y or composite looking. At the moment, I am not too concerned, as I had a home a few years ago where the final pipe that was removable and attaching to the wall pipe likewise was not threaded on; it just slid into place. I never saw any leakage. Does building code by any chance allow this, as the line isn't under any significant pressure, and a tight but non-threaded or glued fit might be quite sufficient to prevent leakage?

Vote
Twitter Facebook LinkedIn
S

The inlet is intended to be connected by using a rubber "bootie". You can find them at HD et al. The bootie is secured with a hose clamp (included). The other (open) end of the boot could be plugged with...dowel?, copper/PVC pipe with cap, etc.

But you're probably better off just connecting the DW into it...

Jim

Vote
Twitter Facebook LinkedIn
C

Thanks, Jim and Edwin.

BTW, Jim, I decided to roll the dice and purchase the inexpensive 1/2 hp, non-stainless steel but plastic grinding chamber Badger 5. The reasoning was: (1) Many people on the net say theirs has lasted for years, sometimes over a decade; (2) my household is tiny, so it won't see very heavy use; and (3) okay suppose the thing rusts out in four years. That's about half the warranty-time of a comparable HP stainless steel grinding chamber disposer, so it seems to me I will have gotten my money's worth. They're pretty easy to change out, so I do it myself and don't factor labor into the calculation. In short, this is a "consumer experiment" that I hope will beat the odds regarding rust out because of low duty and dry climate. Or I'll learn a lesson. :-)

"Speedy Jim" wrote

directions.

Vote
Twitter Facebook LinkedIn
M

Ditto to the previous advice. Getting this stuff hooked up properly so the DW drains into the disposer means that food particles don't go right into the drain and can be "disposed of" in a better manner. You mention you're into the disposer for the long haul, so do it right the first time - you'll be much happier with the end result even if you don't use it (the DW) very often.

Vote
Twitter Facebook LinkedIn

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required