I am in the middle of replacing my garbage disposal with the
Insinkerator Evolution. Following the directions, I removed the cord
from the old disposal. Now I am stuck at installing the cord in the
The directions say to attach white to white, black to black and green
to the grounding screw. The old cord doesn't HAVE black and white,
though. It is SPT-3 E166124. The ground is clearly marked.
Can anyone help? This seems to be simple enough, if I can just figure
out which is hot and which is neutral.
Simple: the black one is hot, and the white one is neutral. If the white one
is so dark that you can't tell them apart, you'd probably better replace the
I'm not sure what you're doing with an E166124 flexible cord in the first
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
On Dec 29, 5:37 pm, email@example.com (Doug Miller) wrote:
Ah, no, it doesn't. Let me show you what I have.
This is the cord that came out of the garbage disposal that I am
replacing, so I assume it is appropriate for the job. The dead
disposal is about 7 years old.
On Sat, 29 Dec 2007 16:45:44 -0800 (PST), firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
It is hard to tell from the picture, but the neutral should be the
wire with the factory markings on the insulation. I don't see any
markings in the picture but they should be there.
The best way would be to test it with a tester. (go ahead and clamp
it in the J-box on the disposal to hold it in place) The wire that is
hot will go to the black.
I only write this because you or others may find it helpful in the
future. The code name for the grounded current carrying conductor;
which most of us, often mistakenly, call the neutral; used to be the
"identified conductor." The means of identification vary with the
application. For example if you run your fingers along the sides of a
two conductor extruded plastic lamp cord you will find that one side of
the lamp cord has been identified by having ridges extruded into it
during manufacture. Hence it is the identified conductor. The cord you
have does have colored insulation but to find it you would have to very
carefully cut away the outer jacket. In cords of recent manufacture the
conductor can usually be gripped with a pair of pliers while the outside
edge of the jacket is pinched between the jaws of another plier. The
insulated conductor is then pulled through the thin layer of jacket that
separates it from the other conductors inside the jacket. Do not
however try to pull the conductor through the thicker part of the outer
jacket of the cord because doing so will require more force which will
damage the conductor. Many inspectors will not accept more than a half
inch of jacket inside the wiring enclosure beyond the cord grip. For
them you have to remove the jacket from the conductors of all of the
free conductor in the enclosure to facilitate inspection and avoid over
crowding the small wiring compartments on appliances. Removing the
jacket also facilitates the use of wire connectors of the correct size
by removing the thickness of the jacket from around the insulation thus
allowing some of the insulation to be covered by the skirt of the
connector. As you mite think that is all the more important in
motorized appliances because the inherent vibration will move the splice
around over time. If the conductor insulation cannot fit under the
skirt of the connector do to the thickness of unremoved jacket there is
a greater chance that the conductor itself will come into contact with
some part of the interior of the wiring compartment which will cause an
arcing fault. Removing the jacket also tends to limit the amount of
combustible material in the wiring enclosure because all insulation is
required to be self extinguishing but cord jacket is not required to be so.
Notice the ribs on the outside of the cord on the right? Is the left side
cord side smooth on the outside? That is how you maintain continuity, but
attaching the plug hot side and the appliance hot side. Ribbed side in
You are a good photographer. Now, slit the one on the left the long ways,
and peel back the grey. I bet the inner insulation has a color. Looks white
to me. In either case, it's probably not critical which polarity you use.
Ha--thank you for the compliment.
I did do what you recommend before I posted. No inner insulation at
all, except on the ground. The one that appears like it might be
white in the picture is just flash wash out.
If you have an ohmmeter or continuity light, you can find out.
The plug is the key. The long, round pin is the ground. The fat blade is
neutral (white) & the small blade is hot (black). If the plug is not
polarized, then get a new cord. Go to the hardware store & get an extension
cord, chop one end off and wire it up.
For it to work, it doesn't matter which is white and which is black.
However, for safety's sake, it does matter.
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