Furnace vent cover replacement

I have an old mobile home and the propane furnace costs too much to run. The vent covers stick up a quarter inch or more. I'd like to replace them with something I won't trip over. (At 85 a fall is very dangerous!) The only thing I can come up with that I have is aluminum flashing. It's pretty thin so likely I'll have to use several layers, thicker than I'd like. Is there anything else I can use? I looked around Lowe's but nothing caught my eye. I'm sure there are small flat pieces of sheet steel available that will work but I can't think of or find anything.

Suggestions?

TIA

Reply to
KenK
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I assume these are in the floor? If so, typical flashing, especially aluminum, is too thin to walk on. HD and similar have sheet metal in various sizes and thickness. You could see what they have and the price. A sheet metal fabricator place would have it, could cut it to size, etc, but I suspect most of them won't do a peanuts deal. If there is a local welding shop, they might be a possibility.

To install them I'd probably use some construction adhesive and four screws, weight it down till it cures so it's flat, in contact all around.

Reply to
trader_4

Magnetic register covers adhere only to steel registers. Check your existing register with a small (example: refrigerator) magnet. If the magnet doesn't adhere, and you don't have too many registers to cover, you may want to consider replacing your existing register with a metal one and then using a magnetic cover.

Reply to
Peter

I think I understand the situation.

I have a furnace vent in the kitchen just in front of a door and I didnt' like either stepping on it or having to go around it, so I took off the metal cover (with louvers and a lever to open and close, just to describe it though it doesn't really matter) and replaced it with a rectangular piece of wood, probably 3/16" thick, and under that I glued another smaller piece of wood that just fit inside the duct. The second piece kept the first piece from moving.

But you wouldn't have to use wood. A piece of metal 1/8" or even probably less would be strong enough. Can be cut with a hacksaw, etc. The smaller piece could still be wood. Are you likely to put your whole weight where the duct is, so that it has to be strong enough to hold all of you. Or will have of your foot be on the current floor even when you walk by?

This was intended to be used only in the summer when the heat wasn't on, and when I was likely to use that door, and it turned out I normally didn't step on it at all, though I probably scuffed it.

Somewhere near the nuts and bolts at Home Depot t here is a small section of rods and sheet metal. They are not big pieces.

(If anyone ever needs big pieces there is a very good mail order house,

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And probably cheaper for small pieces to if you need several. It says "Cut-To-Size Without the Wait" which I guess means they will cut it and you don't have to go to a store and wait.)

Reply to
micky

Got a router?

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Reply to
Effin, Bob

trader_4 snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:

Thinking of putting some foam or other light foamy material into a sturdy plastic bag and putting it under the flashing. Make it possible to step on it without putting anything in the duct that can't easily be removed.

Reply to
KenK

Doesn't sound like a good idea to me. How much does it have to flex for you to lose your balance and fall down? Also, what support does it have? Typically there is little to no support for the duct work. The existing covers rely on the floor to support them.

Reply to
trader_4

  Put a piece of cardboard in the duct boot then about 4" of that spray foam and cover it with a piece of wax paper then that flashing . Foam can be cut out if needed with a drywall saw .
Reply to
Terry Coombs

I agree - "foamy material" under thin tin is a terrible idea. Depending on the condition of the sub-floor - I might try some Z-brackets .. 4 - 6 per vent hole ?

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maybe modify the existing vent covers to fit into the cavity < for looks > and rest snugly on the Z-bracket. or some other piece to fit flush .. eg. 3/8 1/2 plywood .. John T.

Reply to
hubops

trader_4 snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:

Agreed. How about I use two or three layers of flashing with counter sunk or flat head screws to fasten them down to minimize height above floor level?

Reply to
KenK

If by flashing you mean the typical thin aluminum or similar, I say it won't work. Try laying some across any span, put some weight on it and see what happens. It will behave like individual, flimsy, thin pieces. A thicker piece of sheet metal made of steel will work.

Flat head screws won't work though, unless the material is so thick that it will accommodate them. To keep it flat, you could use construction adhesive around the edges, use some short roofing nails at the corners. That's assuming you don't intend to use it again and don't care about the adhesive. If you do, then I would keep the glue close to the opening and use silicone or contact cement, something easier to remove if needed.

Reply to
trader_4

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