Could it be ice???
I trashed one and the ten year old next door put dyr gas in it and
wanted $20.00 to do my drive.
He's $20.00 richer !!!
Many of these small engine carbs have a built in fuel pump which
consists of a diaphram that is driven by the pressure variations
(pulses) in the intake manifold.
If that diaphram is cracked or there's a vacuum leak in that system, it
won't pump its own gas. It will appear to run when primed, but that
won't last long.
A carb rebuild kit should have the parts to remedy this problem.
Paul Hovnanian mailto: snipped-for-privacy@Hovnanian.com
Yeah, there is a linkage that kind of pulses as the load changes. Off the
carb, I can't quite see what it is linked to, tho, but I'll find out.
I can see a lot of small parts covering my workbench in my future....
I'm ackshooly perty terrified of carburetors... I feel the angst
Our Briggs & Stratton powered generator sometimes sticks at full
throttle after a couple years of non-use. I looked at all the levers and
rods and linkages to the carb, and decided to WD-40 one that wasn't
moving. It was the rpm governor. Unsticking it fixes the problem.
That's the governor linkage, don't mess with it, except to be sure it is
free to move,
You didn't say what make of engine you have, but if there's a float
bowl, (bottom of carb, held on by a small bolt, drop it, (Clamp fuel
feed line first) and look for goo. Give the whole area a good shot of
carb cleaner, check that the float moves freely, and that the float
hasn't got filled up with fuel. Put the bowl back on, making sure that
the rubber ring gasket isn't pinched or misplaced.
On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 16:02:03 -0500, "Existential Angst"
That is called a governor.
Just remove the float bowl and clean it. Drain all the old gas, and
start with fresh gas. DO NOT take the linkages apart if you are
unfamiliar with them. If you do, use your digital camera to document
exactly what it looks like at each stage of dissassembly.
On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 13:11:52 -0700, "Paul Hovnanian P.E."
Being a "Sears" it most likely has a Tecumseh SnoKing H6 engine on it
- which does NOT have a fuel pump. Most common problem is moisture in
the gas - and the water blocking the main jet.. If at all possible, do
NOT use ethanol fuel. Use premium if that's the only way to ensure
getting ethanol free fuel. Premium will NOT hurt the engine, and runs
it just fine. (So does 100LL AvGas - but you can't just go and buy
Fresh gas, drain the float bowl, and add some Sea Foam to the fuel to
clean up the carb.
The other day I tried to start my 5500 watt portable generator. I didn't
need it at the time, but was just starting it in case I did need it
later during the snow storm.
My generator is stored outside in the weather with a custom cover for it
to keep rain and snow off it.
I opened the gas valve, turned the switch on, and set the choke. I
pulled and pulled, but could not get it to start for the life of me,
whether it was full choke, half choke, or no choke. I sprayed some
starter fluid into the air cleaner and it would run until it burned up
the fluid and then died. I did this maybe 5 or 6 times with the fluid
with the same results. I.figured it may have had ice in the tank or
something clogging the gas line. I took a heat gun to the bottom of the
tank where the fuel lever and fuel line comes out. I started up the heat
gun and put my hand on the fuel lever and gas line in order to judge the
distance for the heat gun, so I didn't burn the valve or line. A few
minutes of heat later, I gave it some more starting fluid and tried it
again and the generator started right up I don't know what the problem
was, but warming the fuel lever and line seemed to have solved the
problem, or maybe it didn't and the gererator just decided to start.
My generator does that somewhat. It's a lever choke and no primer. It's
stored inside a shed and I only fire it up once every few months.
I pretty much bring the plug wrench by default, toss some gas in the
cylinder and it always starts. Of course, once it's run a bit it will
start normally. Since it always works, small inconvenience and I'm good
Common problem. If you can prime it and it starts but doesn't rum you
have a clogged main jet.
Take a picture of the governor linkage and the way it is installed. Pull
the carb of and get a rebuild kit for it. Then visit a local NAPA or
better parts store and get a carb cleaner basket with solvent. Pull the
carb apart and soak it in the tank. Write down the number of turns on
each needle unless you want to play for a while. Make SURE you check it
for any plastic/rubber hidden parts first. Some use rubber seals around
the shafts and you don't want those to get in the solvent. Pull the carb
out and use air to blow the passages clean. Make sure you blow OPPOSITE
the fuel flow. IE: on the jets blow from inside the carb out the jet.
Put the carb together with the new parts and set the needles. Put it
back on and run it.
Add a small inline filter if it doesn't have one already. Then use GOOD
gas and stabil. When you finish running it at the end of the day shut
off the gas and run the carb down. You won't get all the gas out but it
will be clear of the jets.
re: "Write down the number of turns on
each needle unless you want to play for a while."
First seat the screw by tightening it down (count). Maybe It is 1 3/4
turns or less - just enough to seat the screw. Remember that number.
Once cleaned, all dolled-up put the screw(s) in, tighten down and back
the off the partial turns. of 1 3/4 or less. Works every time for me.
re: " parts store and get a carb cleaner basket with solvent"
Let the carb soak over night in the basket of solvent. Works best.
Does it have a gravity feed? Does if have a blocked vent in the gas
Hand priming may be sufficient to deliver gas to the carb but a
blocked vent may prevent free flow.
Unscrew the cap and give it another try.
Do the cheap/easy stuff first and let us know the results.
That's true - but almost universally they will start and run for some
time - longer with a low fuel level than with a full tank, before
quitting. Generally a plugged cap will start and idle, but will then
die, usually under load. Backfiring from running lean GENERALLY
precedes the quitting.
Still, worth checking.
Cheap/easy is good!!
But someone else mentioned a fuel pump....
How do I know if it's gravity feed or has a fuel pump?
A fuel pump.... goodgawd, perty soon g-d snow blowers will have ECU's,
In EA's case, cheap/easy would be for him to hire someone to clean the
driveway for him.
Better hope not, as obviously you are incapable of diagnosing a simple
one cylinder engine. And from the symptoms, there is a very high
probability that it all points to one thing. Several posters have
already explained it to you. Hint: It ain't a fuel pump.
Because it starts up and runs for a few seconds, that tells me that
the compression is good enough and that the coil is firing on time.
Now to fix it........
First change the plug. Some plugs can run fine until it reaches a
higher RPM. Since you said you could smell the gas, that is also a
sign it could be a "gas fouled" plug which may fire, but not
If that dont' fix the problem, then move on to the fuel delivery
system. There is little use cleaning the carb if you don't clean the
tank and fuel lines too. Look in the tank and see if you see any
foreign material in it. If it is a metal tank, look closely for rust.
If there is rust, you must get that rust out or it will clog the carb
again. so, cleaning the carb only will be a waste of time. If there is
rust, remove the tank and take it to a radiator repair shop. They can
remove the rust. Call them first to make sure they do this. Some shops
only re-core, not clean anymore.
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