Always the carburetion, it seems.
Last snow, a month or so ago, ran fine, a Sears "6.0 hp" ditty.
Today, it would run for only 10 sec, and would have to constantly be
re-primed and started. Choke is OK, full gas. Once in a blue moon it would
run for a minute, but not under load.
I could actually sort of see the primed gas spill out of the carb, which
would apparently fuel the engine for a while. Seems that the running engine
couldn't draw it's own gas.
Any links for how-to's on small gas engine repair? I won't be rebuilding
innards, but I would at least like to know when/how to fix "the fixable",
and when to just give up.
I gave away a fairly expensive Ariens, with carb problems... the local tool
rental place, that fixes small engines all the time, couldn't get that thing
to run right....
Yet, I saw a guy today, with an Ariens that was so smooth I thought it was
electric, from a distance.
Most likely the main jet pickup is clogged. There a couple of ways the
gas gets from the float bowl to the venturi, either the jet is in the
bowl at the bottom of a tube (usually cast), or the cast tube has pin
holes below the fluid level and that channels it to the jet. You
should be able to remove the bowl (after turning off the fuel tank
tap) and clean the passages with a small wire, the wire inside a bag
tie works well.
Do you run all small equipment dry of gas when you put it away, you
have to run them till the float bowl is empty, thats several runs
after you think its out of gas, last fall I put away a 1984 lawnboy as
weel as alot of other gas toys , never cleaned the carb, the only time
my carbs get messed up is when I leave gas in them. At Ace I saw my
store sold a gallon of carb boil just a strong solvent with a dipping
basket. Basicly remove the carb , dissasemble, and soak out the
varnished gas, get new gaskets if you need. Stabil helps and should be
used, but running the bowl empty is a guarntee for next year
Hey SaltyAss, what were we fighting about, inyway?
Was it the climb/conventional cutting you couldn't grok?
Hmmm...... I know that was Ricodjour..... oh yeah, and ShittyTwo.....
Hmmm...... What was it???
Oh yeah, *you* had that big problem believing that 3 Sears hp = 1 Porter
Cable hp.... you wanted cites'n'shit, right?
And then you couldn't unnerstand my repeat of my old locked rotor current
speriment, this time on a "6.0 hp" Rigid/Sears blowVac..... which ackshooly
generates a good bit less than 1 hp...... I guess you wanted *more*
BUT, you do recall -- assuming that I wadn't lying -- that the LRC current
DID sort of calc out to 5-6 hp, right?
You still mad?? Didja wind up learning anything????
On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 11:56:33 -0500, "Existential Angst"
Used my Ariens Snowblower just this morning. Started with one easy
pull and ran flawlessly.
But, then, it always starts on the first pull and runs flawlessly.
Even the first use of the season.
I get pretty much the same results with all my small engines. Weed
Wackers, Lawnmowers, Boat outboards, etc.
Having just gone through the problem on mine, I could offer advice.
But since EA likes to hurl insults at me and half a dozen others here,
why should I?
Well, ackshooly, it was 3 others, who justly earned those insults.....
And, well, you were a full participant in our li'l tiff, and all because of
Biot-Savarte's law, if you recall....
BUT, I humbly apologize, I sincerely regret my actions.....
So, uh, what did you do to fix yer snow blower??
I'll bet all of the half dozen of us on here who you claim are stupid
could fix the problem you describe with your snow blower. After all,
it's just a simple small gas engine. Just got done pitching 14"
deep snow with mine this morning and it's running great after having
the same problem you described last snow. If you're so smart, why
can't you fix what is a common problem with these engines?
Well, here you go again, with your rapidly accumulating errors.
First, the number was 3, and you eventually made it 4, but iirc, you started
these particular hostilities...
Second, I never said (or meant) that any of you were stupid -- ShittyTwo may
not be the brightest bulb, but the rest of the Quartet seems to be on the
sharp side, with useful contributions.
You have shown yourself to be astute in a number of areas -- just not with
the Biot-Savarte law and clamp-ons....
While Salty seems to have mental block regarding LRC and hp.... hey, it
happens to all of us. With me, it's gas engines.
The real problem seems to be more one of character....
First, you'd proly lose yer bet.
Regardless, just cuz an engine appears simple (there you go again, with that
"simple" shit) doesn't mean it's necessarily easy to fix. My Ariens gave
pro's a hard time.
And, I had a 2-stroke dirt auger that NO ONE could fix, cuz, as ""simple""
as that was, the mfr left out a set of reed valves.....
So much for "simple", eh??
Just got done pitching 14"
I never said I was smart. To me, these ngs are a learning forum, which
unfortunately some character-disordered people turn into snippy
attitude-laden dick-waving contests.
And I "can't" fix it cuz I've got zero experience with these things.
So, shall we tally up all your errors in one short paragraph?? goodgawd....
So inyway, I did apologize, so, uh, how did you fix yer snow blower?
And, if in order for you to answer, you require that I never ever bring up
Biot-Savarte again, I promise not to bring it up again....
That's a bunch of crap. I leave gas in mine and never have trouble.
The REAL trouble is most people let crap from on top of the gas can
fall into the gas tank and frig it up all time. 99.99 times our of 100
it's the crap you dumped into the tank that is your problem. The rest of
the time it's that the gas in your supply can is already 2 years old
when you put it in and you let it sit another year in the tank.
His problem does sound like a clogged main jet.
The trouble with small engine carbs depends on how they are set up. A
lot of the smaller 2 stroke engines don't have anything a float bowl
so as long as the gas in the tank is good they usually work. If there
is a float bowl leaving the gas on prevents it from drying out
completely. But float bowl carbs do accumulate crud either way if
they are left sitting for extended periods because they vent to the
atmosphere. Most of my stuff works fine left alone but I have a 4
stroke 8hp generator that likes to have it's gas turned off and run
out of the carb. If I don't do that then the main jet gets deposits
on it that reduce the flow. If I don't it only runs with the choke on
and I have to remove the bowl and clean the main jet.
When I store my equipment for the season I store it with a FULL tank
of fresh gas. On equipment with a fuel shutoff I run the carb dry. My
lawn mower has a B&S engine with the carb IN the tank, so it does not
get drained. Winter storage is less problematic than summer storage
because chemical reactions slow down in the cold, and speed up with
heat. My old snowblower had a fuel shutoff (Tecumseh engine) - the
current machine does not (briggs engine). After sitting all summer it
started on the first pull.
Both machines (and all the rest of my equipment) lives inside, under
cover, to make sure no water gets into the tanks.
Hope I get the vernacular close enuf fer u to
Before you go taking the corb off and apart, just
for grins, empty the berl. Sometimes there's a spring
loaded "emptier" on the bottom (inyway, there is on my
11.5 hp). If no spring, you might have to pull a scru
Drane the berl, give 'er a few pulls and see if she'll
run then. Sometimes it's not varnisch clogging the main
jet, but flakey particewlates swimming around in the berl.
It's always a good idear to try the simplest befor
trying the harder.
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