Fuel usage calculator

  Anybody know of a calculator to guesstimate how much wood I'll need for winter ? Will have to have an "average degree-days sort of input ... I can find tables of average BTU's per unit for most species of wood - I burn red and white oak almost exclusively .   --   Snag
Reply to
Terry Coombs
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A couple of critical variables are difficult < impossible > to factor in to a calculator - what type of structure ? - old & drafty - or new and sealed ? somewhere between ? How warm do you like to keep it ? Also - if the structure is open to the howling winds - it will affect things as much as degree days. I would ask a few wood-burning neighbours before trusting a guess-work calculator. John T.

Reply to
hubops

I use he rule of thumb as 1 cord = 100 gallons of oul. Many variables, of course.

These days I find it easier to write a check than split and haul in wood. I do miss using the stove to cook on at times, or getting the fire go down enough to open the doors and grill a steak.

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

And what kind of apparatus is burning the wood, it's efficiency?

Reply to
trader_4

  New construction , insulated R-11 walls and R-17 ceilings . All double glazed windows and doors . Crawl space insulated with 1" foam as skirting - to be covered with stone later, leaving foam panels in place . I didn't make it super air tight simply because we need some air infiltration for combustion air . But it's not drafty , no big cracks or anything .   I did find some info online , like in our cold zone I should need 3 million BTU's/month as a base figure for a 1500 sf house . I have 3 cords of red/white oak out there , at around 24m BTU's per and 50% efficiency that's enough wood for a whole 12 months . I have my doubts ... I figure that's some kind of average .We like to keep it around 74° , we're sheltered by deciduous woods and down in a holler , and my neighbors were no help , they don't so much stockpile as cut as needed - standing dead if they got it , green if not . They're idiots . I miscalculated last year after increasing the size of the house , I think I actually burned about 2 cords . I'm not planning on getting caught short again . Been cutting all summer in the hope that I can get ahead of things again - and plan on cutting all winter , got a bunch of dead/dying/diseased and leaners marked with orange paint so I can find 'em later . I prefer cutting in winter , no ticks ...   --   Snag
Reply to
Terry Coombs

This site agrees that your oak is 24 million btu per cord - but warns that your cord might be only 70 - 90 cubic feet of actual wood - not the full 128 cubic feet - depending on stacking.

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Where did you get the 3 million per month ? .. perhaps closer to 30 million ? in Jan. & Feb, ? dunno. John T.

Reply to
hubops

    That's the same web site I got that number from . Here's a link to the other web site . I think their estimates are a bit optimistic ...

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  That's based on their map for cold zones . Got a couple of items I need to finish up (like getting my Harley back together) then I'll be focusing on stocking up firewood . I'd like to have 5 cords before it gets really cold . That gives me another couple of months . Hopefully I'll end winter with at least 3 cords if I keep cutting as I use it . This winter I don't have a house construction priority breathing down my neck . This time last year the push was on to get the bedroom dried in so we could get (most of) the rest of our stuff out of the house in Memphis before the kids ruined it .   --   Snag
Reply to
Terry Coombs

there are new homes being built today that use almost no heat. like a 600 w att hairdryer heats the entire home all winter..

super indsulated r60 cielings and walls, triple insulated windows etc...... ..

when considering the costs of super insulation its not a deal breaker becau se the energy costs are so low.

there are companies building brand new homes of poured concrete, rebar rein forced. a foot thick high strength concrete with storm shutters can ride ou t a harvey sized storm as long as you are high enough elevation wise

Reply to
bob haller

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