I'll second on the Kroil, used it for years great stuff. When you are ready to remove the screws place the driver in the slot and give it a few whacks with a hammer. It will seat the driver in the slot and help break the screw loose. This situation looks like it won't allow it but the application of heat from a torch will also help. Dave
Wayne,
Spray them with WD-40 for a week. If they still won't budge with the use od a screwdriver, try a pair of vise grips on the screwhead.
I don't think there is much chance of the screws making it through your goals.
On the other hand, if the line cord is still safe, why mess with it at all? A 65 year old blender is either:
1: A collectors item tht is worth more if you don't alter it from it's factory specs;OR
2: A malt mixer you want to use on a regular basis and don't really care about it's potential resale value.Decide which one, and go from there. If it's 1; put it on ebay.
If it's 2, WD40, vise grips, and eventually drilling the screws out may be your only choice.
Well there ya go man - do whatyou must; it seems to me that nothing you do to the base or electrical cord will affect the malt making ability of the mixer.
Go for it man.... you can't hurt it...!
I have a 1940s Hamilton Beach malt mixer. There are 4 screws that run through rubber feet, attaching the bottom plate to the base. I want to remove the plate to clean the inside and replace the line cord, but can't get the screws to budge. Age and corrosion seem to have frozen the screws in place.
What can I use to help loosen the screws? I'm afraid to force them too much in case they would break of.
TIA
On Sat 16 Apr 2005 12:26:05a, Paulie Points wrote in alt.home.repair:
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll try the WD40. Actually, I bought the mixer on eBay. The cord is safe, but I'd really like to get that bottom plate off. I'd also like to replace the bumper feet with new rubber and hew screws. I was just afraid of breaking one off. The entire mixer, except for the plate and bottom screws is in mint condition. I just want to finish the job. We actually use it frequently for smoothies, milkshakes, etc.
Wayne Boatwright wrote: ....
Good advice from Dave...one of the inexpensive hand impact drivers can work wonders on stuff such...adds a torque at the same time as the impact...an impact drill/driver can be useful, but got's to be careful w/ such small items...easy to round out.
..
Don't use WD40. That is not a penetrating oil. The best I have found is Aero Kroil. Usually comes in an orange and white can. Spray that on for several days. If you can not find the Kroil use some other penetrating oil.
I think Dave may have missed the "rubber feet" part, and I assume you'd like to reuse them. A torch will spray flame around and burn the feet up and probably scorch the paint on the unit. If you've got a small soldering iron around, try pressing the heated tip firmly against the screw head after you've let the Kroil soak in. Stop if you smell or see the rubber feet starting to fry.
The application and removal of heat and the resultant expansion and contraction of the screw metal will help break things loose.
You didn't say if the screw heads were slotted of Phillips. If they are slotted, and you haven't already buggered them up, try filing or grinding the tip of the slot screwdriver you are using to match the slot width. Finish off by grinding or filing at right angles to the shaft. The sideways scratches will dig into the sides of the screw slots and help keep the screwdriver from camming out.
And as others have said, tapping on the screwdriver handle while it's in the screw head can help too.
HTH,
Jeff
The screws usually go through the bottom then through the actual motor and anchor in the top. If you can see the end of the screws from the top put a real penetrating oil on from that side. If you can't see the screw ends from the top I wouldn't expect you to have much luck with the penetrating oil. In either case try using a good penetrating oil like Kroil.
Steve B.
Wayne,
I agree with the others about applying so me penetrating oil. If a screw driver won't work then cut off the feet and you should have good access to the bolt heads for a vicegrip. I don't think heating the bolts is a good idea since you may heat other parts of the mixer which shouldn't be heated
Dave M.
Try...
A. Tightening slightly, then loosening. Sometimes that will help.
B. Stick the thing in the freezer for a while, then try "A".
-- dadiOH ____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at
So Jeff why does the original post say he wants to replace them??
And what part of my reply "This situation looks like it won't allow it" Don't you understand?
Soldering iron is a good idea, combine that with the freezer idea and the resulting thermal shock may help break it loose and draw the oil into the joint.
Dave ;-)
On Sat 16 Apr 2005 06:45:33a, Dave Morrison wrote in alt.home.repair:
Thanks, guys, I'll look for Kroil and give it a shot.
On Sat 16 Apr 2005 06:51:06a, Steve B. wrote in alt.home.repair:
No, this is a malt mixer like the kind they used to use at soda fountains. The motor is at the top of a long frame and mounted separately. The screws mount directly into the base at the bottom. The frame is cast iron. I'm gonna give the Kroil oil a try.
On Sat 16 Apr 2005 08:16:05a, Duane Bozarth wrote in alt.home.repair:
Yeah, the screws are rather small, but I have a good fine blade screwdriver that fits the slot well.
On Sat 16 Apr 2005 07:33:56a, dadiOH wrote in alt.home.repair:
Interesting! If the oil alone doesn't work, I'll give that a try.
Thanks!
So that I could miss it and get egg on my face?
When I pay attention while reading it, nothing.
I deserved your responses for having The Fox News Channel on in the background this morning while cruising around the newsgroup.
Mea Culpa, I'll just have to fall on my sword.
Jeff
On Sat 16 Apr 2005 10:09:37a, Jeff Wisnia wrote in alt.home.repair:
Thanks, Jeff. All good points to remember and try. I'll try to pick up the Kroil oil later today.
I hate to say it but if they've been in there for decades and are slot-headed screws, my guess is that they are rusted beyond removal by any simple means
So, in other words, you're really screwed
On 4/16/2005 5:47 PM US(ET), Wayne Boatwright took fingers to keys, and typed the following:
I have never seen Kroil in my travels, but you might try Gunk's "Liquid Wrench", if you can't find the Kroil.
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