Follow-up on microwave oven

Nov 10, 2024 Last reply: 1 year ago 9 Replies

Follow-up on microwave oven



Oven only lasted 23 months, went to product page to learn specs to buy similar new oven, saw place for reviews, gave poor review, GE posted to await help in an email.



Email not read because From: was General and I thought it was spam or election spam.



Complained I had not gotten the email and got a phone call and eventually found the email, coupon arrives in the mail for dicount on any appliance made by Monogram, GE, GE Profile, Adora, Cafe, Haier or Hotpoint marjor appliances , or service by GE factory service or parts from GE parts, and not for $10 or 20 like I suspected it woudl be but $100. Even though my exact model was now only 120 and now on sale for cleareance at 87.



They didn't want the old one back.



Bought thermal cutout from Ebay, was told it would come in 3 days. Tracking showed no progress for 5 days, complained to post office. Two days later item arrived. Don't know if it's because of my complaint or not, only got the typical tracking email that said it was about to be delivered, which I think I signed up for years ago. Nothing with the complaint number on it.



Would have installed TCO in 5 minutes but not only was part of the plastic on the connector melted, one side of the metal connector clip was gone!!! No clipping ability left.



Crimped on a new connector, and the oven works fine!



No reason to think there is but I'd like to measure if there is leakage in the "equipment cabinett" since the cover is off. Bought a Radio Shack Microwave meter 40 years ago and I've seen in in its box in the kitcheb drawer many times since then, but it's not there now. I've hired a maid for one day in the last 25 years and she hid everything.



So, if I put the case back on the MW without screwing it back on, will it still block the microwaves?. This suggests a better question: Assume it's floating in air, close to but not touching the oven itself. Will it still block the microwaves? Will sparks go between the sheet metal and the oven? That's better than heating my eyeballs.


How much effort would it take to put the screws back in?

A properly fitted and installed microwave case acts as a Faraday shield. It is much more likely to leak microwaves if there are open around the sides of the incompletely snugged down, tight case. Why take chances? Put the screws back in snugly and make sure to check the most common location for microwave ovens to leak even though it's not part of the case - around the perimeter of the door.

The "better question"here is a theoretical question. The case won't be floating in the air. But it's the question that interests me the most.

The detailed instruction papers that came with the mw, that I wrote about in the prior thread, warn more than once about the high voltage at the transformer, capacitor, and magnetron, but still refer to testing with the cover off. With no warning about microwaves. Once I screw the cover on, after I find my tester, I won't unscrew it and take it off just to check for microwaves, so I'm looking for the tester to test before screwing the cover on. It pays to look I already found 4 old bottles of liquor that I've started drinking.

I'll compromise and push it in place and wait to screw it on later.

I hate to inspire other people to be careless, amd this refers only to an undamaged, properly assembled microwave:

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federal regulation, microwave ovens are limited to 5 milliwatts (mW) of microwave radiation per square centimeter at approximately 2 inches from the oven surface. This limit is far below the level known to harm people. The microwave radiation would be expected to drop off according to the inverse square law, so at 20 inches it would be down by about a factor of 100.

Nothing I found was very scary.

It seems your interpretation of "testing" involves actually turning on the magnetron and generating microwaves. I don't know if that's consistent with what the manufacturer's instruction/repair manual considers "testing". Perhaps 'testing" in this context means only doing continuity and resistance checking in a unit that has been powered down and with all the capacitors discharged, followed up by plugging it in to see if the display and interior light now are illuminated. If so, then put the case on snugly, put a pyrex measuring cup with water inside, and see if the magnetron functions.

I should just drop this, but I had the paperwork in front of me anyhow, and I see that it says, "To prevent electrical shock, use extreme caution when diagnosing oven with outer case removed and power "on". Then high voltage section of the power supply, including of leads, is

4000 volts potential with respect to ground".

Elsewhere it says "When replacing the Magnetron, be certain the R.F. Gasket is in place and mounting screws are tightened securely to wave guide. Failure to do so can result in hazardous levels of microwave leakage. Perform microwave leakage test. "

The two above are both in boxes. The first was in BOLD CAPS. Elsewhere at least 4 places, in only 6 pages, sometimes in a box, it warns about high voltage. One says (in all caps), "Danger high voltage - 4000 V potential. Risk of electric shock. Can cause personal injury or death: use extreme caution when diagnosing oven with outer case removed and power "on" , the high voltage section of the power supply including filament leads is 4000 volts potential with respect to ground "

In a big bos it says not to operate othe oven with the door open. .... "Before turning on microwave power for any test or inspection within the microwave generating compartments, check the magnetron, waveguide or transmission line and cavity for proper alignment, integrity and connections " So IMO it's clear that "power on" means running, not just plugged in.

Also says at the start fwiw "Important safety notice This information is intended for use by individuals possessing adequate backgrounds of electrical, electronic and mechanical experience. Any attempt to repair a major appliance may result in personal injury and property damage . The manufacturer or seller cannot be responsible for the interpretation of this information nor can it assume any liability in connection with its use."

And it says to do a leakage test anytime the door is replaced or adjusted.

I wouldnt' have typed all this but I recently learned about Windows-H, which listens and types for you!!

It made only 2 or 3 mistakes in all the dictation here. After you stop typing or make any manual correction, you have to do Win-H twice to restart. I guess once to stop (even though the box at the top is gone and it's not apparent that it's still running) and once to restart.

Thanks for the followup Micky. Glad you have the manufacturer's detailed instructions and warnings. Apparently, if you're confident that the wave guides etc. are all properly aligned and firmly attached, people who are familiar with repairing microwave ovens can safely energize the magnetron with the oven's case removed. Certainly not within my competency. Life is not worth jeopardizing for $80 - $100.

Well, it's not going to kill you. AIUI, the worst it can do is heat the liquid inside your eyeballs and harden your eye's lens. That's all. But that takes time, just like it takes time to cook the food, and the strength of the mwaves decreases as the square of the distance. Even 3 feet is enough to get a weaker dose, 1/9 of 1 foot. 1/36 of what the food gets at 6 inches, the rough distance from the magnetron to the center of the cooking chamber (and there the waves that miss the food the first time bounce around the inside and might hit the foot later. )

I suppose if one is outside on a 95^ degree day, the inside of your eyeballs gets a little hotter than normal??? but in either case, hot day or microwave, it cools off later. So far, so good.

The new mwave is supposed to come today, so I was trying to put the case back on the old one. Getting it off was harder than the repair was, and getting it back on is much harder than that. Not the screws but sliding the 3 long edges in where they are supposed to go. I've spent 10 solid minutes so far. I'm certainly not taking it off if I find the mwave meter, because I'll have to put it back on again, and I don't think I'm finding the meter soon anyhow. So I'll never know what the meter would have said.

They have new meters, digital, for sale for $17 to 21 and they have the same meter on ebay for just $1 less. I'd rather spend another dollar and buy from a store.

I did find 5 bottles of liquor while looking for the meter. Two or 3 I brought from NY 40 years ago and haven't drunk from since. I'm repeating my mother's story. After my father died when I was young, we were moving back to my mother's home town, and rather than pay to move the liquor, she was drinking it, as much as she could. Then she thought, Here I am a recent widow drinking as much as I can. I'd better stop.

The sherry bottle was stored upright. That was bad, right?** The cork in the sherry bottle crumbled when I tried to twist it out, but the sherry seems fine.

**AI needs a lot of work. It says "Sherry bottles should be stored upright to minimize the amount of wine exposed to oxygen and oxidation. However, in general, it's recommended to store wine on its side to keep the cork moist and maintain the seal" Loeds of rules at
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especially since the bottle was already opened, but it seems good to me

I wonder how sensitive/resistant prosthetic lenses are to microwave heating. I had my original lenses removed years ago due to cataracts (no hx of microwave exposure; just age-related).

AIUI microwave ovens are tuned to the resonant frequency of water molecules.

I needed reading glasses since I was about 50 but about 2 years ago, age

75, I noticed I was never wearing them and I could again read fine without them. Whoopee!, I thought, but when I googled, it said improvement in sight like this was a precursor to cataracts. So I'm waiting until I need new lenses.

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